Transfer Case Leak (2 Viewers)

[moab cj5]

Update. I had 2 leaks on my T Case: The front output seal, and the O-Ring on the actuator. The front output seal was much more work than the O-Ring.

I ordered 3 of these Shaft Oil Seals TC15x23x7 in the event it is still leaking after just replacing the O-Ring, but so far so good in that regard.

To get the actuator off the shaft, I followed the instructions in this thread and turned it counter clockwise and gently pulled it off. No popping or breaking noises were heard, but it didn't just slide off, it took some wiggling and gentle pressure. Putting it on was a bit more work. I tried holding the shift pin out of the Tcase as far as I could, then gently pushed the actuator back on. It took about 5 frustrating minutes, putting the spring back on the seal twice, before it finally went back on. Again, no popping or breaking sounds, just gentle wiggling and pushing.

I bolted everything back together and took it for a test drive. The CDL activated just as it had in the past, and I still have High and Low range.

Reading through the threads, I decided the risk of about $6 in parts ($2 for the seal which I haven't installed, and $4 for the O-Ring) was worth trying. If I screwed up the actuator, I can go without CDL for a while and it would be more than $1k if I took it to a shop for them to drop the case and replace the seal as stated in the repair manual. So the risk to me was worth it to try. Worst case I would be looking for a used Tcase or looking at upgrades.

 

[BltByKrmn]

Finally got up close and personal with my transfer case. While there's a light mist of oil on the transfer case and the back of the actuator near the rear drive shaft, the gasket between the actuator and transfer case appears to be bone dry. The oil mist is really concentrated near the top of the actuator, not at the bottom where you'd expect gravity to take it.

Is it possible my oil fill washer is bad and that's why I have some oil on the case/actuator?

 

[BltByKrmn]

Finally got up close and personal with my transfer case. While there's a light mist of oil on the transfer case and the back of the actuator near the rear drive shaft, the gasket between the actuator and transfer case appears to be bone dry. The oil mist is really concentrated near the top of the actuator, not at the bottom where you'd expect gravity to take it.

Is it possible my oil fill washer is bad and that's why I have some oil on the case/actuator?

Took the fill bolt off on the transfer case, plenty of extremely clean oil so I don't think it's the o ring.

Is it possible my rear output shaft seal is bad? I'm assuming the oil splashes at higher speeds and that's the light misting I'm seeing at the top back of the transfer case and actuator.

 

[GXer04]

Replaced seal and O-Ring today. All back together and plugged in, but getting a flashing CDL light all the time. Pushing button doesn’t change it and tried unhooking the battery to reset. Any suggestions?

 

[GXO]

@JLee had that

 

[GXer04]

Ok. Looks like I should check and clean the connection on the actuator. Fingers crossed. It did have oil running out of it as I drained and cleaned the actuator on the bench. I cleaned it again right before installing, but it still could have gotten oily. Hopefully I didn’t smoke anything.

 

[JLee]

Replaced seal and O-Ring today. All back together and plugged in, but getting a flashing CDL light all the time. Pushing button doesn’t change it and tried unhooking the battery to reset. Any suggestions?

I had an intermittently flickering CDL light that eventually just went off forever. My 4wd ECU (attached to the plastic cover plate underneath the glove box) was unplugged.

 

[alia176]

Ok. Looks like I should check and clean the connection on the actuator. Fingers crossed. It did have oil running out of it as I drained and cleaned the actuator on the bench. I cleaned it again right before installing, but it still could have gotten oily. Hopefully I didn’t smoke anything.

Just to make you feel better, my actuator box was complete filled with gear oil for years. Still, the two motors ( I have a 4runner 4.7) operated fine, all be it not quickly. After draining and replacing the O rings, they operate normally and rapidly. So, I think you are fine.

 

[boogyfoot]

In case any of you need the info I found a seal that will work for the actuator.
You don't have to buy dozens of them, they are available from Rocket Seals part #15x23x7-MOS/D $4.85

This $5 dollar part saved me $1000 today

This is the seal in the actuator that is not available from Lexus - it is often needed in addition to the parts specified when completing the TSB for the transfer case leak.
Lexus calls for a new actuator to the tune of about a $1000.00

I hope this helps somebody because I couldn't find this info anywhere on the web.

Rocket Seals is now selling that seal for over 8 bucks plus shipping

 

[boogyfoot]

Thanks dnp,
I had the same problem on my Lexus GX 470 2003 with 84,000 miles on it.
I started noticing a oil drip on the floor of my garage.
I took the vehicle in to a shop for a look over. The shop said,
it will cost $ 2,000 because the transfer case has to be removed and taken apart. That takes 20 hours of labor. I said, Forget it I'll sell the vehicle.
I found your comments through a search online. I printed what you said took pictures under the car. Appeared to be the same type of leak. I then took the vehicle this morning to another repair shop and had them read your article and compare your pictures with mine.
They took the vehicle raised it up, took out 3 bolts, slide the acuator off. Then looked at the seal, it was a bad o'ring. They ordered a new o'ring from a Toyota Dealer because Lexus always has to order.
Installed the new o'ring and put it back together in 1 hour.
Whalla problem solved for $ 85.85.
A far cry better than $ 2,000.
Thank you for your information

I wasn't that lucky. My mechanic tried that short cut and I ended up with my vsc light stuck in the off position. Make sure they know what they are doing when they pull the actuator without splitting the transfer case.

 

[boogyfoot]

Bump it up folks.

Where are guys sourcing the seals and the O-Ring?

O-rings can be purchased at lexus or Toyota. Seals can be purchased at rocket seals.

 

[boogyfoot]

Does any know how to remove the seal while the rod is still in the actuator?

 

[GXO]

It is complex. Easier to clock and pull.

 

[gx470weekender]

Just an update on mine - the amazon seal I linked to earlier in this thread was incorrect (too large). Reassembled it with just the larger Toyota o-ring installed and now the flashing CDL won’t go off, despite a number of attempted fixes and much research. I may have reassembled it incorrectly, so I’m going to order another seal (original pn was Nok 6810) and see if next time I can find where my reassembly went wrong. Any pointers welcome.

 

[fj55-100]

needs retimed .notch on blue sensor on left goes to just below bolt hole upper right . gear to the left lines up with pic ... lower gear does not matter .. take out all parts and reassemble to match pic

 

[gx470weekender]

needs retimed .notch on blue sensor on left goes to just below bolt hole upper right . gear to the left lines up with pic ... lower gear does not matter .. take out all parts and reassemble to match pic

fj55-100 thank you - you're a hero. Worked in no time.

Upward and onward - Still haven't replaced the smaller seal so when I opened the actuator, still got oil leaking.

As an alternative to the smaller Rocket Seals part, I just ordered this for $5.55 including shipping off Ebay: 15x23x7mm oil seal:

Metric Oil Shaft Seal 15 x 23 x 7mm Double Lip Price for 1 pc | eBay

15mm ID x 23mm OD x 7mm Height. Oil Seal = Rotary Seal = Shaft Seal. Spring Loaded Buna N Rubber Sealing Lip.

www.ebay.com

Will report if its a good fit.

 

[gx470weekender]

The $5 Ebay oil seal worked perfectly!

 

[GXO]

FYI to you 4th gen owners...you can't use the method the GX uses as you have an electronic actuator for your 4WD selector...which puts another shift rod into the tcase actuator and makes it impossible to rotate off. Only way is to R&R the tcase for the 4genners.

 

[fluegeller]

Many many thanks and +much gratitude to all who contributed to this thread. Just performed the $6 version of the $3 fix, I did the seal as well since my o4 GX470 has 166000 miles on it and it wasn't torn but could tell it was worn compared to the new one. Three days later no leaks and everything works as it should. My only concern was this vehicle is fairly new to me and I found out about the leak when I investigated a power steering pump like whine coming from the transmission tunnel. only during warm-up. Thankfully it wasn't the tranny. I totally agreed with several who posted the opinion that while there is a small chance of a booboo the it was worth trying before going down the factory approved $2000+ road. My only concern is the case was almost dry. 1.5 qt capacity and it took 1qt
6ounces. I used Valvoline synthetic GL5 75-140 to hopefully slow down /stop the leak while I did the research that lead me to this site and in particular this thread. In the 1500 miles I drove it, it only leaked 2 ounces. Unless there is problem with this fluid I plan on leaving it in till the next drain and fill is due Once again thanks from the bottom of my wallet!!!

 

[boogyfoot]

My mechanic tried the twist and pull method on my 2004 gx470, and now my VSC TRAC off light is stuck in the off position.
Does anyone know why. When I push the VSC button the light stays on. I've tried all of the resets and nothing works.