Transfer Case Leak (1 Viewer)

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dnp

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Well, I've been active for some time on both the 80 and 100 forums, but this is my first post on the 120 forum. That being said, I performed a search, but I didn't find what I needed.

My wife's GX has been virtually flawless for the last 90,000+ miles, but I just noticed that it has recently developed a gear oil leak from the transfer drive actuator (TDA) on the side of the transfer case. After a brief search online, it appears this leak is starting to become a common problem as the GX's get a little age on them (or, as the case may be, AFTER they exceed both the 7 year and 70,000 mile drivetrain warranty).

From past experience, I have found that MUD is usually THE authority when it comes to all-things-mechanical on the Toyota Land Cruiser and its variants. Therefore, that's why I wanted to bring this discussion to a place that is known as much for its mechanical aptitude as it is for its knowledge of the operation of the vehicles.

Accordingly, I thought it might be beneficial for all of us GX owners to start compiling information about this repair, as the general consensus from other online sources on what it takes to repair this leak varies widely. Some say the solution for this leak amounts to the removal and resealing of the TDA (a photo of which is the first photo below), while others say it requires the REMOVAL and resealing of the WHOLE TRANSFER CASE!..........It's hard for me to believe that a small leak of this nature would require a complete removal of the t-case, so that's one of the main reasons I'm starting this thread.

First, a post on another forum stated that the TDA could be removed and repaired in the following fashion (his writing was fairly cryptic, and I had to read it several times to understand exactly what he was saying - I don't think English is his primary language - so I have made an attempt to clear it up as I understood what he was trying to say. In the places I wasn't exactly sure, I left his words as written):

Here is what happened to me. Sewell advised to change the complete actuator which had the leak around the t/case. Ok, from what I see, the TDA has a leak. It leaked everywhere I parked. Now, it is not a serious issue at all. Ok here it what you need to do:
1. First before jacking up the car, ensure the height control switch is turned off.
2. Jack your car up.
3. To the actuator, you have the lead harness going into it. Disconnect the one on the body of the transmission connecting to the harness.
4. Do not at any given time disconnect battery terminals (if done, the ecm stores a message that the TDA is defective. And to erase this message you will have to go to Lexus and do it from the obd).
5. Remove the TDA by remove the 4 bolts in the front and then 2 bolts connecting the trans.
6. You will have a spillage of bit oil from the actuator, not to worry.
7. Get the actuator on the workbench and open it you will see an oil seal within the TDA that is damaged. Try to find a new seal (he later identifies this seal as P/N - 90301- 56009. O Ring) , replace it, and ensure proper application of gasket silicon is applied. Better to buy the ones Toyota sells. Good stuff.
8. Fit the same way backwards.
9. Top up the WS trans oil.
10.Connect the harness connector to the trans and the actuator.
11. Start you car, raise the RPM to 3000 for 2-3 mts. Shift your Transmission gear from P - D - 1-2 ( all of it) Shut down your engine.
12. Again Top up your WS trans oil.
13. Lower your car from jacks.
14. Now set the height control switch to on ( ride control)
15. Good to go.

The other "option" is a Toyota TSIB that indicates a total R&R of the t-case! (also posted below).....although it's not totally clear to me that the TSIB is referring to the exact problem at hand.

Bottom line is: this is, apparently becoming a common problem. I don't know about you, but I'd much rather pull a component and repair it, rather than having to remove the whole effin t-case.........

Any of you have any knowledge of this problem/solution? Likewise, have I completely missed existing threads on this issue on this forum?.............if this is the first discussion of it here, I'll continue to look into it........if any of you have any knowledge of it / can gather information, please let us know. Thanks, David
Transfer Drive Actuator.JPG
 

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I have the same problem with my 2003 GX470. The leak started at around 75K. Since the leak started I bought the Repair Manuals. According to volume 2 the shift actuator shaft connects to the high and low shift fork shaft via a snap ring. So, I don't think the actuator can be removed without disassembling the transfer case.

Also, I called my local dealer and an independent Toyota / Lexus mechanic. Both of them stated that the transfer case has to be removed and disassembled to resolve replace the faulty seal. I plan to replace the seal myself, since the dealer wants $2,400.00 and the mechanic wants $1,000.00 to replace the seal. On another note, a used transfer case out of a salvaged GX470 costs around $500.00. It definitely does not make sense to have the dealer or independent mechanic to fix the problem for me.
 
I have the same problem with my 2003 GX470. The leak started at around 75K. Since the leak started I bought the Repair Manuals. According to volume 2 the shift actuator shaft connects to the high and low shift fork shaft via a snap ring. So, I don't think the actuator can be removed without disassembling the transfer case.

Also, I called my local dealer and an independent Toyota / Lexus mechanic. Both of them stated that the transfer case has to be removed and disassembled to resolve replace the faulty seal. I plan to replace the seal myself, since the dealer wants $2,400.00 and the mechanic wants $1,000.00 to replace the seal. On another note, a used transfer case out of a salvaged GX470 costs around $500.00. It definitely does not make sense to have the dealer or independent mechanic to fix the problem for me.
Thanks for the post, as it reminded me to call around for pricing on this repair. After doing so, the local Lexus dealership quoted me $750, and a reputable, independent, Lexus-only repair shop quoted me $410.........I need to find out why there's such a disparity from the pricing you and others have experienced (i.e., I was concerned that both places had misunderstood what I said was the problem). However, both places acknowledged the t. case has to be removed to repair the seal...........hmmmmmmmmmmm? I'll look into this further and report what I find.............
 
Just wondering if the leak is a small nickel sized leak, or something bigger. My wifes 04 gx470 started having the same issue, and I crawled under to check it out, seems to be the same issue. Honestly I have been fiddling with my "new 89" and haven't done anything yet to hers. I also can't imagine this is a huge issue since the leak is so small. But then again, the truck wasn't cheap and I want to take care of it properly. Is it infact determined that the t-case has to be pulled, or is there an easier fix?
 
Last I checked you will have to remove the transfer from the transmission and open it to get the actuator out.

Also put gear oil in your transfer not WS ATF.
 
Hey , i worked for lexus for 20 years untill i retired and moved to utah . and have replaced that o ring quite a few times .By the book you must remove and split the case as the shaft has a circlip on the inside . I have not ever seen that seal in the picture , it is just the o ring that is leaking . With caution i will add the folowing . It is possible to to remove the accuator without spliting the case . we played with this at the dealer as a way to beat the warranty time . I even had to replace the one on the wifes gx470 last year . but it is not for the squeemish . You have to remove the shield ,remove the mount bolts ,unplug the connecter ,now the tricky part , pull it backgentley untill it stops then rotate it to un hook the pinion from the rack ( the rod has teeth on it like a steering rack ) and pull it out , sometimes they crackle and pop . but all the ones we have done 200+ and mine nothing bad happpened ,. then replace the o ring and re install it the way it was twisted to make it let go, and push it back in, again it makes some bad sounds but it should be ok .Inspect the level in the transfer case . and drive it in all the ranges . Please do no mess with the WS fluid it is a PITA to establish the correct level even when you have the tool to read the Trans data list .
I have performed the job the factory way ,and this way and after tearing down the accuator of a bad unit could see how ,it is just a plastic gizzmo and if not carefull you can break it .
This info is just for conversation on how it can be done . please dont try if it if you arnt willing to break a few eggs . but i will bet this is how the dealer is will do it if you take it there .
I lurk around sometimes but reitrement and 2 young kids keeps me off the web , if someone needs help ask around, i can be found .
hope this helps
fj55-100
 
Ok, that has reinforced my thought to take it to a pro! I'll work on a fj62, not going to touch my wife truck! Once her truck hit 90,000 miles it started, we just hit 100,000. I think getting it handled in the next month is going to have to take priority.
 
more info

I had the same problem on my wife's 03. Can get the O-ring thru Toyota/Lexus, but that was not my problem. Leak was from a damaged seal. You cannot purchase the seal from Lexus. You have to purchase the actuator which is $1,000 just for the part. I tried several aftermarket seals, but none worked. Finally found one that worked, but had to buy a gross. Let me know if you need a seal and I will be reasonable as I'm just trying to recover some of my costs.
 
I had the same problem on my wife's 03. Can get the O-ring thru Toyota/Lexus, but that was not my problem. Leak was from a damaged seal. You cannot purchase the seal from Lexus. You have to purchase the actuator which is $1,000 just for the part. I tried several aftermarket seals, but none worked. Finally found one that worked, but had to buy a gross. Let me know if you need a seal and I will be reasonable as I'm just trying to recover some of my costs.
How much do you want for a seal (shipped to 39232)?
 
I had the same problem on my wife's 03. Can get the O-ring thru Toyota/Lexus, but that was not my problem. Leak was from a damaged seal. You cannot purchase the seal from Lexus. You have to purchase the actuator which is $1,000 just for the part. I tried several aftermarket seals, but none worked. Finally found one that worked, but had to buy a gross. Let me know if you need a seal and I will be reasonable as I'm just trying to recover some of my costs.

Hi guys, sorry to dig up an old post but I'm in need of one of these seals. The seal is NOK part number
[FONT=&quot]BR6810E but is not sold by Lexus or Toyota or by NOK. I can't even cross reference the seal with other manufacturers.

I can't believe that a $4 seal is going to cost me $1000!

If anybody has a line on where I can get one of these seals or an equivalent I would be very grateful!


[/FONT]
 
In case any of you need the info I found a seal that will work for the actuator.
You don't have to buy dozens of them, they are available from Rocket Seals part #15x23x7-MOS/D $4.85

This $5 dollar part saved me $1000 today :clap:

This is the seal in the actuator that is not available from Lexus - it is often needed in addition to the parts specified when completing the TSB for the transfer case leak.
Lexus calls for a new actuator to the tune of about a $1000.00

I hope this helps somebody because I couldn't find this info anywhere on the web.
 
I'm with FJ55-100. I have been with Lexus for 8 years and I have never had to replace anything other then the large O-ring to stop an actuator leak. Interesting none the less.
 
The reason the seal NOT THE O RING fails is due to the vehicle having had the o ring replaced already by the Dealer by using the method in post #9.
I also worked for Lexus for 20years and watched guys use this method to beat the warrany book time. As a result of popping the actuator out leaving the shaft in the transfer case the worm gear part of the shaft tears the lip on the seal when prying the actuator out.
As a result gear oil fills up the actuator motor.
Proper way is to disassemble transfer case and release actuator shaft from inside the transfer case.
I have experemented with releasing the shaft from within the motor itself, but this is very tricky due to there is a position switch inside the actuator that has to be timed correctly whe reinserting the shaft into the actuator.
 
So this is a direct fit? I also have a leak that just occurred the other day and my GX has about 116k now. Hopefully I can get to it very soon! (Not trying it pay $1000+ for labor, etc.

In case any of you need the info I found a seal that will work for the actuator.
You don't have to buy dozens of them, they are available from Rocket Seals part #15x23x7-MOS/D $4.85

This $5 dollar part saved me $1000 today :clap:

This is the seal in the actuator that is not available from Lexus - it is often needed in addition to the parts specified when completing the TSB for the transfer case leak.
Lexus calls for a new actuator to the tune of about a $1000.00

I hope this helps somebody because I couldn't find this info anywhere on the web.
 
The reason the seal NOT THE O RING fails is due to the vehicle having had the o ring replaced already by the Dealer by using the method in post #9.
I also worked for Lexus for 20years and watched guys use this method to beat the warrany book time. As a result of popping the actuator out leaving the shaft in the transfer case the worm gear part of the shaft tears the lip on the seal when prying the actuator out.
As a result gear oil fills up the actuator motor.
Proper way is to disassemble transfer case and release actuator shaft from inside the transfer case.
I have experemented with releasing the shaft from within the motor itself, but this is very tricky due to there is a position switch inside the actuator that has to be timed correctly whe reinserting the shaft into the actuator.

This is partially true. If the leak is from inside the actuator, it is a torn seal that could have been damaged anywhere...dealer or independent shop...that attempted a previous repair incorrectly.
If it is between the actuator and case, the issue is with the oring.
Either way...if anyone lives in or around Dallas....send me a pm and we can take care of the leak with no drama and no chance of it coming back or further damage from having someone who doesn't know what their doing prying and hammering around on your transfer case. I've repaired hundreds of these....
 

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