Transfer Case Chain? 2006 LC (1 Viewer)

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TreatSmash

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Shop told me today my clunk was because I needed a new transfer case chain.

I have read through these forums exhaustively looking at the various fixes for the clunk and have never seen anything about a chain. I'm pretty sure he doesn;t know what he's talking about.

Am I correct that there is no chain? I almost told him to his face, but wasn't 100% sure.

Edit: my LC is a 2006
 
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Modern Toyota transfer cases run with multi-row sprockets and chains instead of gears; much quieter for one thing.
 
Nope, 100 series T-case does not have a chain, it's all gears in there. OP is correct.
 
Man, it's been a real day to learn lessons for me, he also told me that the fill plug on my front differential was stripped and I needed a new plug, so after I left I swung by AutoZone and got a 10 mm socket, only discover when I got home that there was absolutely nothing wrong with my fill plug.
 
Man, it's been a real day to learn lessons for me, he also told me that the fill plug on my front differential was stripped and I needed a new plug, so after I left I swung by AutoZone and got a 10 mm socket, only discover when I got home that there was absolutely nothing wrong with my fill plug.
Guy sounds like a joker, don't let him mess with your truck anymore.

As for the clunk, you might chase that down until your broke and blue in the face. Some people, including myself, find the CV axles and hub flanges fixes the clunk. You can check this by looking under the vehicle while shifting through the gears. There is a good video on the forums somewhere.

Other people luck out by greases the slip joint on drive shaft thoroughly. and then there are some who throw money at bushing, control arms, and all sorts of crap to find it doesn't make a difference. The fact is it's an old heavy AWD truck with a lot of moving parts.


When you lock your center diff, does the clunk go away?
 
Guy sounds like a joker, don't let him mess with your truck anymore.

As for the clunk, you might chase that down until your broke and blue in the face. Some people, including myself, find the CV axles and hub flanges fixes the clunk. You can check this by looking under the vehicle while shifting through the gears. There is a good video on the forums somewhere.

Other people luck out by greases the slip joint on drive shaft thoroughly. and then there are some who throw money at bushing, control arms, and all sorts of crap to find it doesn't make a difference. The fact is it's an old heavy AWD truck with a lot of moving parts.


When you lock your center diff, does the clunk go away?
WELL The tech told me the drive shaft had a lot of play and that was causing the clunk, he said he could reach up and turn it a 1/4 inch, which I don't believe because I can't repeat that either. I can't trust a word he said.

I don't know about the locker but I am hitting the trail this weekend and I'll find out for sure.

I already greased the s*** out of the shaft and I have already started the bushing swap procedure, but mine actually all look pretty healthy.
 
WELL The tech told me the drive shaft had a lot of play and that was causing the clunk, he said he could reach up and turn it a 1/4 inch, which I don't believe because I can't repeat that either. I can't trust a word he said.

I don't know about the locker but I am hitting the trail this weekend and I'll find out for sure.

I already greased the s*** out of the shaft and I have already started the bushing swap procedure, but mine actually all look pretty healthy.
O yeah I've been down this path before. Mine ended up being the CV and hub flange, which didn't even appear to have much play.

If the driveshaft did have play that could be a cause. Maybe bring it to Toyota and ask them to check it over.


I found most bushings I replaced weren't really all that bad to begin with.
 
New shop. Who dis?
 
Was it low on blinker fluid too?
 
Do you have a diff drop up front? Someone recently on the forum spent a lot of time chasing down a clunk that ended up being diff drop bolts not being torqued to spec.
 
Run far away from that mechanic. The tcase is gear-driven not chain-driven.
 
Do you have a diff drop up front? Someone recently on the forum spent a lot of time chasing down a clunk that ended up being diff drop bolts not being torqued to spec.
I have functional AHC so no, but good enough guess.
 
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My clunk went away after replacing rear u joint and greasing the ujoints with every oil change.
 
Was it low on blinker fluid too?
After he tops it off ask if he checked the Knutsen valve right next to the muffler bearing. ;)
 
For the record I believe the 200 T case is chain driven.
 
Do you have a diff drop up front? Someone recently on the forum spent a lot of time chasing down a clunk that ended up being diff drop bolts not being torqued to spec.


*Someone enters the chat*.... le sigh, what a ****ing saga that was. Only good that came out of it was I essentially completely tore down my drive train and entire suspension, checked and lubed every bushing, re-torqued every bolt, checked every component over etc etc etc before a 4300 mile road trip out west, and it was flawless the entire trip and continues to be, so planning another one of those this summer.

But yeah, diff drop bolts, double check em if you got em.
 
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Makes me wonder what the mechanic would have done had the OP authorized the work. "Well we got in there and found a few surprises...."
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