Trans Oil Pan Leak/Seepage (11 Viewers)

[aubie]

So I recently flushed my ATF following the super helpful video created by @NLScooby. Everything went smoothly except that the trans pan took some persuasion to unseat/seal. After my initial unsuccessful attempt, I considered just leaving it in place since it was sealed so nicely but decided to proceed because I really wanted to change the strainer. I ended up using a small pry bar to separate the pan gasket. I was careful stay away from the valve body and focused primarily on the edge of the pan.

I put the new gasket on the original pan after cleaning the mating surface of the pan and valve body and installed using new bolts tightening down to 65 in/lb. I've noticed some leaking/seepage from the rear-most passenger side corner bolt. It's never much...at most a drop on the head of the bolt every couple of days. I've since checked and re-torqued the bolts just to be certain. The bolt where the leak occurs does seem to turn slightly easier than the others, but I'm wondering if that just due to some extra lubrication provided by the ATF.

Any thoughts on possible remedies or solutions??? Anyone aware of or have a torque sequence for the pan bolts? I don't really want to, but I'm considering ordering a new pan and gasket from Toyota and redoing that portion of the job. If I do go that route any issue with saving the fluid and reusing? It's only been in there 4 days. I used Amsoil Signature Series ATF.

Would love to hear your thoughts...

Thanks in advance!

 

[grinchy]

So you've already taken them all loose and retorqued again following the tightening pattern?

 

[32cls6speedmt]

how about using new bolts with washers? part number 91611-B0625

 

[aubie]

I didn't take them all loose, just ensured that each one was torqued to proper specs. I guess taking them all lose and retorquing would be the first logical step.

I couldn't find a torque sequence, so I just worked opposite sides/corners. Would you recommend draining the fluid and reinstalling the current pan and gasket?

 

[grinchy]

I didn't find a patter, i did do every fourth bolt around 3x. I also did 45 in lb, then the final torque. The rubber gasket should be really forgiving. I broke a corner bolt and only had 11, and it sealed right up.
There are many recommended ways to do it, some probably better than the above.

I'd try loosen/retorque first, and if that fails, pull the pan and see if the gasket rolled or something.

I'd reuse the fluid unless you did a drain fill and not a full exchange. If you did a drain fill I'd put in new fluid.

 

[aubie]

@32cls6speedmt those are the new bolts that I used.

 

[aubie]

I didn't find a patter, i did do every fourth bolt around 3x. I also did 45 in lb, then the final torque. The rubber gasket should be really forgiving. I broke a corner bolt and only had 11, and it sealed right up.
There are many recommended ways to do it, some probably better than the above.

I'd try loosen/retorque first, and if that fails, pull the pan and see if the gasket rolled or something.

I'd reuse the fluid unless you did a drain fill and not a full exchange. If you did a drain fill I'd put in new fluid.

Good call...I think that's the most logical first step. I tend to overreact and go with the nuclear option first in most cases!

I hate leaking fluid with a passion and this is driving me crazy!!!!

 

[TLC2013]

I had some minor seepage as well after doing the full exchange and filter change. The trans pan gasket was a mess to replace, wont be replacing it again, just fluid exchanges going forward. I didn't follow any specific FSM pattern when tightenting the pan bolts. I just loosely snugged them up doing one on one side and then another on the opposite side. After getting all the bolts fairley snug I used the torque wrench to get things to spec. I still noticed some minor seepage and gave a little extra to the bolts to snug it up. So far so good after 10,000 miles.

 

[aubie]

I had some minor seepage as well after doing the full exchange and filter change. The trans pan gasket was a mess to replace, wont be replacing it again, just fluid exchanges going forward. I didn't follow any specific FSM pattern when tightenting the pan bolts. I just loosely snugged them up doing one on one side and then another on the opposite side. After getting all the bolts fairley snug I used the torque wrench to get things to spec. I still noticed some minor seepage and gave a little extra to the bolts to snug it up. So far so good after 10,000 miles.

Luckily my gasket was in decent shape and wasn't too bad to replace. I gave those back bolts a little extra as well hoping that would solve the issue but it doesn't seem to be improving.

 

[TLC2013]

Luckily my gasket was in decent shape and wasn't too bad to replace. I gave those back bolts a little extra as well hoping that would solve the issue but it doesn't seem to be improving.

Good news about the gasket. Mine was fused to the pan and left remnants on the it that had to be scraped off without damaging the surface, fun times. I would loosen all the bolts and re-tighten in the patterns listed in the previous post by @grinchy