Trailering a 60...

[woytovich]

So I'm going to start towing my somewhat built FJ60 when heading out to wheel. Up until now I have driven the 60, towing a small trailer with my Swampers, then swap tires back and forth.

I'll be towing with a 2003 Yukon XL, 8.1 liter, 3.73 gears, tow/haul package.

My questions are for others that trailer their FJ60s...

I am looking for input on the trailer itself: size, features, tires etc etc... I am leaning towards a wooden deck 10k rated trailer with dual axles and brakes on both.

Do you use a weight distribution hitch?

Do you use a sway control hitch?

Any observations/words of wisdom from people that actually trailer a 60 would be appreciated.

mark

 

[doug720]

I think all your questions are tow vehicle dependent - meaning, how does the Yukon tow a load. The trailer specs sounds good, especially brakes on both axles.

My understanding is nearly all modern SUV's are really 1/2 chassis. Yes there are exceptions, Excursions and Suburbans, but most.

These have shorter wheel bases, lighter duty chassis, smaller brakes, etc, plus many only have 5,000 pound hitches, even with the towing package.

I tow a 25' X 6000 pound Featherlite box trailer behind our class A motor home nearly every time it moves, and except for uphills...never know it's there. Occasionally, I tow the same trailer with my 1 ton Ford van and before that a F350 crew cab 4X4.

The van is OK, but the F350 was like the motor home! I used to have a 9500 pound boat I towed with F350 and van, again the F350 was very good, van not so much. Vans and light duty/1/2 ton SUV's are just not the best tow vehicles in my experience.

IMHO, Sway control is a band-aid for too small a tow vehicle for the trailer or vice versa. Sway problems can also be how the load is positioned on the trailer, again a sway control is a band-aid. Load levelers are ok, but have limits and the bars must be removed if you go off regular roads or highways, as the they will bend frames on dips and rough roads.

10% of trailer weight is the recommended tongue weight, if the Yukon sinks in the back, suspension needs an upgrade. The tongue weight may also be above the hitch tongue rating. Example 60 @ 6000# + trailer @ 3000# = 9000# x 10% = 900# tongue weight.

Load levelers will help, but should not be the used to level the basic load. LL are to transfer weight to the front wheels for control and braking.

Hope this helps.

 

[woytovich]

Thanks Doug.

The Yukon XL is a 3/4 ton so the trailer + load will be under the max rating.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/something-new-and-different.841084/

The Yukon XL has "AutoRide" that is SUPPOSED to compensate, somewhat, for changes in load, terrain etc:

"REAR LEVEL CONTROL
For a stable, level ride height under any load or passenger condition, GMC Yukon SUVs feature Rear Level Control as a part of their available AutoRide® suspension system. This feature constantly senses and adjusts Yukon’s rear suspension height and uses an onboard compressor to pressurize air bladders inside the rear shocks until the vehicle is level."

I understand about the need to properly position the weight on a trailer in relation to the wheels to eliminate sway and the need to pay attention to tongue weight.

I did not know that a weight distribution hitch would have problems with rough terrain. This is a concern for me as the last little bit of every trip will usually be off pavement.

mark

 

[doug720]

On the LL, all you do is release the bar tension, disconnect the bars, and carry on like a regular hitch.

Sounds like you have a good platform to start from.

 

[Elbert]

I had a 02 3/4 ton suburban similar to OP in the past...and presently have a 2500HD pickup. The trailer I have is a 10.4K metal deck car hauler or equipment type trailer...its metal deck but many run a wood deck. The 10K rating is the important part. Brakes on both axles are important and tie-down points. I've made some modifications to my trailer...with the help of my friends. (1) we changed the rear ramps to a removable stow type and we changed the mount points etc for the ramps and my friend did all the fab and made the ramps..etc (2) I installed a toolbox up front for straps chains..etc (lockable) (3) I added LED lights all around and also installed marker lights on the fenders so I could see the fenders at night. (4) I changed the adjustable trailer ball coupler to the new bulldog HD type as I like the bulldog brand and they way it couples and its very easy to tell its locked on the ball, some of the other couplers I just don't care for. (5) My friend made me some nice spare tire mounts that are removable and lock into the stake pockets, yet don't interfere with the load. I got a good deal on the trailer but it was pretty basic on "options" so we added and did things along the way to make life easier.

The trailer tows straight and without sway issues..both with the suburban I had and with my present 2500.

I've weighed my present trailer setup and it comes in at almost 3k dry. so that means I can load approx 7K in weight. The trailer is 20ft long..which is a little bit longer than it technically has to be..but I would think you would want something around 18 to 20ft long. It has two large tie downs on the front bed and two on the rear of the bed. I use axle straps and pull or tiedown from the front axle straight to the two d rings and on the rear I use axle straps and us an x patter on the straps and pull down from there and this keeps the rear of 60 from moving around.

I would take the current setup anywhere without problem... I drive 70-75 on the hwy loaded... Oh the other thing I have changed is now I run 16 inch e rated pickup all season tires on the trailer vs. the 15inch ST trailer tires that I had problems with. With the e rated LT tires I have had zero issues and I'm probably running around 9500lbs (loaded trailer).

On the suburban I ran a class V hitch receiver (lookup titian on etrailer for the relevant truck). ON my pickup it has a class V receiver from the factory.

I try to load the trailer where the trailer sits level and once I get the straps locked down tiight and my safety chains connected...I've never had any issues with this setup and have never felt nervous or anything. Basically I drive and watch the gas gauge move like it has a mind of its own. No sway no vibration...no wondering about stuff breaking or tracking issues... 2 5/16ths ball and all couplers and trailer related "stuff" is rated above the weight capacity of the trailer itself. You have to read the print on your receiver, the trailer ball, the mounts...etc, they all have specific weight ratings. Large pics...only ones I had avaliable.

 

[Elbert]

my suburban had the auto level business on it... basically same truck as you have... the suburban with 8.1 or GMC will have no problem pulling that around. 6.0 engine in my present truck and last pickup performed similar...and I get 1 mpg better fuel milage 8.1 vs 6.0 gas. the 3.4 ton suburban is a great tow package to work with...as long as you have the right rated hitch...you are golden.

The right trailer makes the difference... I don't use any special load balancing..etc. Everything works as you see it. If you were heavier than this setup you might need one of the load leveling hitches but I'm not sure how that works with the suburbans/yukons with the auto leveling business. and then you would be right on your max weight for towing most likely.

The setup above works..and has been problem free for me with 2 2500 pickups and one 3/4 ton suburban. I think the key is the 10K rated trailer..

 

[Elbert]

This trailer has an adjustable ball mount so you can adjust to your vehicle. Older pics showing past two tow rigs and trailer before some of the mods. One other pic showing the adjustable hitch...I've adjusted the trailer setup a few times and was lazy and just let it ride a little higher above level on the sub. The cool part of the sub with auto level is that the truck auto levels

 

[Elbert]

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler/Bulldog/BD028657.html

I like bulldog "stuff" this is the coupler I went to..its a relatively new one from bulldog...they recently increased the capacity.

 

[woytovich]

As far as backing up, etrailer says:

"Some weight distribution system prohibit reversing because doing so could damage the system. If you are backing up in a straight line though it would be fine. But to make turns while backing up you would need to disengage the spring bars and/or the friction sway control unit, like on # PS49903, and then maneuver the trailer.

Some systems do not have this restriction including the Reese Strait-Line systems and Blue Ox Sway Pro systems. If using a weight distribution system that does not come with sway control at all then backing up would not be an issue unless making sever turns (jackknifing the trailer) and you would want to remove the spring bars ahead of time."

 

[woytovich]

THANKS ELBERT! Excellent info.

 

[kling-on]

I towed my 60 with a 60... 5.3, Trailer brakes and Airbag. It Did it ok...the placement of the truck on the trailer REALY change how it towed... All and all it was ok
At best the short wheel base as stated doesn't do well with towing

 

[cyberfalco]

I tow mine on a 10,000lbs 20' equipment trailer behind my 1989 Suburban R2500 with a TBI 454 and TH400. The Suburban's suspension feels stable to me with E rated tires and 80PSI in the rears. My 454 is a bit tired but doesn't complain. It just takes a while to get up to speed. I keep the speeds at around 60 MPH to save fuel as I don't have overdrive. A weight distributing hitch is always a good idea they are just high dollar. I will probably get one eventually as I refurb the Suburban into a more reliable tow vehicle/camper.

 

[cyberfalco]

I have brakes on both axles and bought a high dollar Prodigy T3 controller.

 

[rmblaire]

I've towed mine on a wood deck 10k dual axle at times of "Yep, It's Broken". I have a crew cab Titan 4X4 with the tow package and it did great. I was nervous at first because a sprung over 60 on a trailer looks like its 15 feet tall.

 

[woytovich]

Cyberfalco: My Yukon XL has a Prodigy P2 controller already installed.... (I think you meant Prodigy P3, rather than T3?)

 

[woytovich]

rmblaire: My 60 is not SOA but with a 3-4" spring lift, a 2" body lift and Q78 Swampers it is not a lowrider.

Anyone seriously considered adding a fairing to their trailer? I'd build one with some storage section in the front and tall enough to reach up to the top of the hood.

 

[doug720]

I think you are not really talking about towing your trail rig...But actually going to trailer the "Show Queen" around, as the trail rig does not need the trailer nose rock screen!

 

[Elbert]

go with a 10K+ rated trailer with dual axles and brakes on each axle...you have a 3/4 ton truck, get the right hitch parts rated for your truck and stuff towed and you are ready to go...thats about it. I've been to KY, TX and other places with no problem. I used some other trailers and they sucked...thats why I now own the 10k version and have not looked back.

 

[woytovich]

It wouldn't be intended as a rock screen as much as a way to reduce drag... and to house some storage space.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tra...Dg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1123&bih=1004#imgdii=_

 

[Elbert]

get a lockable storage box that is mounted to the trailer...that way all your tie down crap stays with the trailer and you don't forget stuff...as with anything...if some idiot wants it bad enough..they can get it...but on mine the @#$% will have to work at for a while.