So I have the rear axle all mocked up and starting on the front. I'm doing a shackle reversal as you all know if you've read the thread up to this point. On the front, I've got the shackle mounts tacked into place and the leaf spring hanging from it. The plan was to bolt the spring hanger up and then lowering the rig down onto jack stands. Was hoping that this would locate the spring hanger. This didn't go as planned. Should I just tack the spring hanger in place according to my measurement that I got from the stock location before hand. When I measured from center to center on the original set up, it was 41 3/8". Didn't know if this is possible to do without weight on the springs. All input is greatly appreciated.
Yes I know that the shackles are flattened out. This was a test fit and pictures to show what I am working with.
So I have the rear axle all mocked up and starting on the front. I'm doing a shackle reversal as you all know if you've read the thread up to this point. On the front, I've got the shackle mounts tacked into place and the leaf spring hanging from it. The plan was to bolt the spring hanger up and then lowering the rig down onto jack stands. Was hoping that this would locate the spring hanger. This didn't go as planned. Should I just tack the spring hanger in place according to my measurement that I got from the stock location before hand. When I measured from center to center on the original set up, it was 41 3/8". Didn't know if this is possible to do without weight on the springs. All input is greatly appreciated. Yes I know that the shackles are flattened out. This was a test fit and pictures to show what I am working with.
I think you should mount the shackle reversal brackets in the stock location to make things easier. I did it without even having the spring hanging.. Even though I did the opposite on my rig ( removed the shackle reversal and put the stock hanger back on ) I think using the measurements you took, this should work. When the spring is hanging ( not compressed ) the shackle should be hanging down vertical or even slightly angled towards the axle. Hope this helps! And if you need me to take any measurement off of my rig I would be glad to do so!
I think you should mount the shackle reversal brackets in the stock location to make things easier. I did it without even having the spring hanging.. Even though I did the opposite on my rig ( removed the shackle reversal and put the stock hanger back on ) I think using the measurements you took, this should work. When the spring is hanging ( not compressed ) the shackle should be hanging down vertical or even slightly angled towards the axle. Hope this helps! And if you need me to take any measurement off of my rig I would be glad to do so!
Hey thanks Mj. I keep second guessing my self on the SR. I don't know if I made a mistake or not. Got the old spring hangers still and could cut the shackle hangers off and reuse them. Hope someone else will chime in also. The reason I moved the shackle hanger forward about an inch, was a really good friend of mine told me it would help with approach angles and flex a little better. Crap I don't know now.
got the front all mocked up today and next is to bolt it in place before doing the C&T. Need to get the 3rd member in and get the driveshaft in place before doing that I guess. Rear is almost done. Just waiting on a few other parts to finish it up.
not sure about the springs, they are looking really flat. Any input on this? I've heard that this should be okay and give good ride quality. Let me know what you think
not sure about the springs, they are looking really flat. Any input on this? I've heard that this should be okay and give good ride quality. Let me know what you think
My springs look like that with full weight on them. I have an add a leaf installed for the extra weight (bumpers, winch and eventually sliders when I get around to installing them) Couldn't tell if you have them in your springs. You definitely do not want to have a lot of arch in the springs for a SO application, unless you want weld up a ladder to get in . Are you planning on running a track bar to keep your pinion from rising up under load? Its on my to do list along with front and rear swaybars. I have lots of body roll going on right now and it doesn't feel very safe especially when turning. Keep up the good work and let me know if you have any questions about setting your castor angle when you do your C&T!
Got the weight of the truck on both the front and rear axles. Got the rear perches tacked on the axle housing and the u-bolts all tightened down. Got started on the front axle and ran into some issues that I am struggling with. Don't know where to set the pinion angel to start the C&T. When I point it at the output shaft of the t-case it seems way too steep. What should this be and what should the angles of the knuckle ball be. Right now the passengers side is at 8 degrees and the drivers side is at 10. What the heck is wrong here. If I were to set my perches dead level, what should the pinion angel be? Here are some pics Thanks guys
Got the weight of the truck on both the front and rear axles. Got the rear perches tacked on the axle housing and the u-bolts all tightened down. Got started on the front axle and ran into some issues that I am struggling with. Don't know where to set the pinion angel to start the C&T. When I point it at the output shaft of the t-case it seems way too steep. What should this be and what should the angles of the knuckle ball be. Right now the passengers side is at 8 degrees and the drivers side is at 10. What the heck is wrong here. If I were to set my perches dead level, what should the pinion angel be? Here are some pics Thanks guys
You are doing it right by setting the pinion angle and getting the perches set first. I pointed mine directly at the tcase and ground down the perches to accommodate. I answered your question about the perch in my thread. But once again it is going to take a lot of grinding to make it fit right. Don't worry about your caster angle right now, you need to get the pinion and perches taken care of. My castor angle looked like yours before I did the C&T. It will all even out. When I set the castor angle it was around 5.5 rotated back.. Meaning you will rotate the knuckle balls back till they are set at 5.5 degrees from where the bearing races are pointed straight up at 0 degrees. Just take your time, the perch and pinion angle on the front is the most time consuming. After that it will be smooth sailing. Here are some pics to see what I am talking about:
This one will kind of give you an idea of how the perches are set in relation to the pinion angle.
Here is how the castor angle will look before you perform the cut and turn. Notice how it is pointed foreword.
Here is after setting the castor angle. Notice how the top bearing race is turned back. This is where the 5.5 degree setting comes into play.
Final outcome with the knuckle installed. This is why the castor angle is important. It enables the tierods to clear the springs.
Hope that helps and let me know if you need any more reference pics! Good luck!
Scratch the second pic.. That was after I had already began to rotate the knuckle. You can see in the first pic that after setting your pinion angle and Welding the perches on that the knuckle will be forward quite a bit.
Scratch the second pic.. That was after I had already began to rotate the knuckle. You can see in the first pic that after setting your pinion angle and Welding the perches on that the knuckle will be forward quite a bit.
I didn't take a measurement for the front pinion angle, only the back. I just put a piece of pipe and made sure the flanges were pointing at each other. I can take one for you if you need it!
I didn't take a measurement for the front pinion angle, only the back. I just put a piece of pipe and made sure the flanges were pointing at each other. I can take one for you if you need it!
If you dont mind, could you take a quick measurement so that I could have an idea where to start at. Then I could adjust as needed. Got some second hand shocks to use for awhile and to get this thing going soon. Thanks, Ryan
Finally got a chance to work on the front axle today. Got the passenger side perch leveled out and tacked on. Lowered the truck back down on the axles and everything bolted down. Now the fun of cutting and turning the knuckle. Here's a few pics of the progress.
Good progress! Before you start the C&T you should put down a bigger bead on the spring perches. That would suck to break them loose while turning the knuckle.. What did you end up setting your pinion angle at?
They are tacked on pretty good. Did the C&T today and trying to get some Marlin Crawler knuckle gussets set up. These index off of the steering stops. Well crap, cut those off to do the C&T and now I have no way of indexing off the old steering stops. Going to pull the axles off and take them to a buddies house and burn everything in real good with his massive Miller welder. Got some Ford F-250 shock towers to put on but I think the drivers side is going to interfere with the power steering unit. More to come and pictures also when I get some more of the welding and stuff on the axles.
They are tacked on pretty good. Did the C&T today and trying to get some Marlin Crawler knuckle gussets set up. These index off of the steering stops. Well crap, cut those off to do the C&T and now I have no way of indexing off the old steering stops. Going to pull the axles off and take them to a buddies house and burn everything in real good with his massive Miller welder. Got some Ford F-250 shock towers to put on but I think the drivers side is going to interfere with the power steering unit. More to come and pictures also when I get some more of the welding and stuff on the axles.
Good deal, I put my steering stops on after assembling my knuckles. I was going to run the Ford towers, but decided to make my own shock hoops. What degree did you end up going for on the C&T?
I went with 5 1/2 degrees back from the trunnion being at zero. The reason I'm putting on the steering stops now and the knuckle gussets is, I plan on getting the front and rear axles power coated.
I went with 5 1/2 degrees back from the trunnion being at zero. The reason I'm putting on the steering stops now and the knuckle gussets is, I plan on getting the front and rear axles power coated.