Toyuzu Fj60 (Rootbeer Diesel Build)

[bluehawk]

Are you running a DC joint on the rear driveshaft?

Yes, stock drive shaft from the 84 that I'm using for parts.

 

[boots4]

Good, that answers the pinion angle.

 

[bluehawk]

Good, that answers the pinion angle.

So am I doing it right? Does the pinion angle look right? This is all new ground for me.

 

[boots4]

Actually I knew the front earlier FJ60s had a DC joint but I didn't know the rear's did. If in fact it does have one then yes with a DC joint on the driveshaft you will want to point the pinion at the Tcase which is what you've done. I'm not sure how much weight is on the axle but at ride height once you've pointed the pinion at the tcase you will want to drop (rotate down) the pinion 1-2 degrees. Under acceleration the pinion will rotate up so by dropping it just a tad the pinion will come up to the right angle when driving.

If this shaft does not have a DC joint and it's just a standard two u-joint shaft (one at each end) you do not want to point the pinion to the tcase. Instead you will want to keep the tcase and pinion flanges parallel at ride height and then again drop the pinion by 1-2 degrees before welding on the spring perches.

 

[bluehawk]

Actually I knew the front earlier FJ60s had a DC joint but I didn't know the rear's did. If in fact it does have one then yes with a DC joint on the driveshaft you will want to point the pinion at the Tcase which is what you've done. I'm not sure how much weight is on the axle but at ride height once you've pointed the pinion at the tcase you will want to drop (rotate down) the pinion 1-2 degrees. Under acceleration the pinion will rotate up so by dropping it just a tad the pinion will come up to the right angle when driving.

If this shaft does not have a DC joint and it's just a standard two u-joint shaft (one at each end) you do not want to point the pinion to the tcase. Instead you will want to keep the tcase and pinion flanges parallel at ride height and then again drop the pinion by 1-2 degrees before welding on the spring perches.

Hey thanks for the info boots. Going out tomorrow to do some more work on my day off. I'll post up some pictures of the progress and ask some questions. Thanks again

 

[bluehawk]

Some Progress

Didn't get a whole lot done today. Did get the front axle cleaned up and all of the old perches and stuff cut off. Next is to get the front axle mocked up and the RuffStuff perches tacked on.

Boots, here are some more pictures of the DC drive shafts. May have to put them into two posts. Let me know what you think.

 

[boots4]

Boots, here are some more pictures of the DC drive shafts. May have to put them into two posts. Let me know what you think.

So the second pic is of the front shaft with a DC joint on it. I'd like to see the other side of the last pic to see what it on the other end of that rear shaft.

 

[bluehawk]

So the second pic is of the front shaft with a DC joint on it. I'd like to see the other side of the last pic to see what it on the other end of that rear shaft.

I will post up a pic of the other end tonight when I get home from work. Boots, since you are in OR., do you know if Jonesy's Off Road is still selling the kit for 6BT that goes in the 80 series??

 

[bluehawk]

Here is a shot of the other end of the drive shaft.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

That's going to be an issue, with the pinion pointed right at the t case like that and a single cardon joint you are going to get crazy vibrations.

With the pinion pointed up at the transfercase like that you need a double cardon end on the transfercase end.

What I did on my brother SOA HJ60 is got a 2nd front shaft with the double cardon and and had it lengthened for the rear of the truck.

 

[bluehawk]

That's going to be an issue, with the pinion pointed right at the t case like that and a single cardon joint you are going to get crazy vibrations.

With the pinion pointed up at the transfercase like that you need a double cardon end on the transfercase end.

What I did on my brother SOA HJ60 is got a 2nd front shaft with the double cardon and and had it lengthened for the rear of the truck.

So the rear is "no es bueno" . Is it just a regular drive shaft? In the picture of the front DS, the far right is the DC, correct? What do most people do for the rear and will the front be okay with the DS pictured?

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

If you correct your angles on the rear you won't need a DC rear driveshaft. Plenty of vibration free SOA 60's without DC rear shafts. (incl. mine)

Front will need a DC shaft with a cut and turn.

Swapping snouts around and shortening tubes really isn't that hard. With a dial gauge and some "V-blocks" you can dial them in just fine and save some $$$ at a driveshaft shop.

I can send you a link to what I did if you like.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Just read the last page of your thread.

Before you weld up those rear perches..... get the weight on the rear springs (somehow) and get the pinion input and the transfercase output on the same plain.

Jeremy is right. The way it is now it'll vibrate.

Will you be running a traction bar in the future?

 

[bluehawk]

Just read the last page of your thread.

Before you weld up those rear perches..... get the weight on the rear springs (somehow) and get the pinion input and the transfercase output on the same plain.

Jeremy is right. The way it is now it'll vibrate.

Will you be running a traction bar in the future?

Thanks for the post Sir, I've seen that picture before but couldn't remember where I saw it. Yes I have a traction bar to put on. Its pretty beefy. Send me the link you were talking about if you don't mind. Thanks again for all the input.....

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Thanks for the post Sir, I've seen that picture before but couldn't remember where I saw it. Yes I have a traction bar to put on. Its pretty beefy. Send me the link you were talking about if you don't mind. Thanks again for all the input.....

The reason I asked about a track bar is because a lot of guys will point the rear diff pinion a couple degrees down. This is done to compensate for the fact the torque on the axle rotates the pinion up under acceleration. I guess the idea is to get the angles optimum while accelerating. However..... I didn't do this because I have a heavy rear leaf pack and pinion twist is minimal. Factor in a traction bar and there shouldn't be any real need to bugger about with any weird angles.

Now about driveshafts.... This is what I did and it worked well for me and all the other cruisers I have built driveshafts for.

The splines/snouts are often compatible throughout the Toyota stuff. I have used minitruck, 40 series/60 and 80 series stuff all with success. Mix and match. So what I mean is the snout bits are often different lengths which is a great way to change the length of a driveshaft. Front driveshaft tubes aren't tapered at the ends so that allows one to fine tune the length (via cutting the tubing shorter)

Rear 60 shaft tubes are tapered at the ends so adjusting the length is a bit more in depth.

Things to keep in mind:
Make sure the shafts bits you are using to build a custom shaft aren't worn out (ie make sure splines and UJ are in good shape)
Mark everything before you take a shaft apart for proper indexing.
Try to keep your welds uniform so as not to create an unbalance.
Always measure the runout of any shaft before you mess with it to see of it bent.
If you can dial the runout in better than factory (which isn't hard) balancing shouldn't be a problem.

My guess is that its more cost effective for Toyota to get shafts close and then balance them (of course we are only talking a few thousandths here). For the garage guy just get the shaft good and true and you should be fine.... if for some strange reason it vibes.... have it balanced.


Anyway, have at it man, I find it an enjoyable and satisfying task.

Few posts down on the page link is what I came up with:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-vanc...66-new-member-hello-there-vi-bit-intro-7.html

 

[bluehawk]

The reason I asked about a track bar is because a lot of guys will point the rear diff pinion a couple degrees down. This is done to compensate for the fact the torque on the axle rotates the pinion up under acceleration. I guess the idea is to get the angles optimum while accelerating. However..... I didn't do this because I have a heavy rear leaf pack and pinion twist is minimal. Factor in a traction bar and there shouldn't be any real need to bugger about with any weird angles.

Now about driveshafts.... This is what I did and it worked well for me and all the other cruisers I have built driveshafts for.

The splines/snouts are often compatible throughout the Toyota stuff. I have used minitruck, 40 series/60 and 80 series stuff all with success. Mix and match. So what I mean is the snout bits are often different lengths which is a great way to change the length of a driveshaft. Front driveshaft tubes aren't tapered at the ends so that allows one to fine tune the length (via cutting the tubing shorter)

Rear 60 shaft tubes are tapered at the ends so adjusting the length is a bit more in depth.

Things to keep in mind:
Make sure the shafts bits you are using to build a custom shaft aren't worn out (ie make sure splines and UJ are in good shape)
Mark everything before you take a shaft apart for proper indexing.
Try to keep your welds uniform so as not to create an unbalance.
Always measure the runout of any shaft before you mess with it to see of it bent.
If you can dial the runout in better than factory (which isn't hard) balancing shouldn't be a problem.

My guess is that its more cost effective for Toyota to get shafts close and then balance them (of course we are only talking a few thousandths here). For the garage guy just get the shaft good and true and you should be fine.... if for some strange reason it vibes.... have it balanced.


Anyway, have at it man, I find it an enjoyable and satisfying task.

Few posts down on the page link is what I came up with:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-vanc...66-new-member-hello-there-vi-bit-intro-7.html

You Sir are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the replies and the link you sent. So I guess the picture of the DS that I am using is just a regular old u-joint DS. The front is a DC-DS and is good to go with a C&T. If I'm picking up what your puttin down, keep the pinion at zero if the output shaft of the t-case is zero. Would go to say if one is 2, then the other angle should be 2

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

You Sir are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for the replies and the link you sent. So I guess the picture of the DS that I am using is just a regular old u-joint DS. The front is a DC-DS and is good to go with a C&T. If I'm picking up what your puttin down, keep the pinion at zero if the output shaft of the t-case is zero. Would go to say if one is 2, then the other angle should be 2

Cheers,

I think you got it. Everything has to be parallel with a regular 2 UJ drive shaft. UJ's also have to be in sync.

Your build is coming along nicely, keep up the good work man.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Good progress bluehawk! I'm still waiting on my perches but should be hanging my axles pretty soon. Keep up the good work!
Mj

 

[bluehawk]

Good progress bluehawk! I'm still waiting on my perches but should be hanging my axles pretty soon. Keep up the good work!
Mj

Thanks Mj , still following your SOA build. Hope to have the front mocked up this coming weekend. More posts and pics to come.

Ryan

 

[bluehawk]

Well I haven't had time to work on the 60. Been busy helping a friend put new axle shafts, knuckle rebuild and other things to get his 80 series back rolling. Hope to get some good progress done in the next few weeks. Stay tuned and check back on progress ( I hope ) !!!!!!