Toyota Electrical Connectors (i.e. how to work the damn things) (1 Viewer)

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OK, I consider myself a :banana::banana::banana: home mechanic. I have done everything from engine swaps, to head gaskets, clutches and timing belts in my driveway in various vehicles (mostly Japanese). But what the *@#%! is up with these #%!@#%&^ing Toyota electrical connectors? It's like they were designed by a Chinese puzzle designer. Or maybe they're just all so old they don't work anymore. I'm doing a major maintenance overhaul right now, and I never figured the hardest part of re-sealing the upper oil pan would be disconnecting a ******* electrical plug.

So the idea here is for folks with some good LC know-how to post up the tricks, tools, and techniques they use for the various electrical connectors (starter, oil level, etc). Like for instance, when you look at a connector, can you get an idea of which tabs to push, pull or lift? I sure as fawk can't. There are not enough curse words in the English language to convey my frustration with these little bits of plastic.

Please share your wisdom.
 
I was helping a friend remove his intake manifold on his 4Runner. Come to find out a previous “professional“ mechanic broke the plug and siliconed it together. There was no way it would have disconnected. I had to destroy the original plug. I was replaced by a Napa plug.
 
This thread has a ton of info on the harness and connectors.

 
The connectors can be replaced. They typically have one or two locks that need to be unlocked. If you look that this picture you will see one of the locks. It is the white piece. This needs to be out to remove the pins then push in to lock them in place. I stole this picture from Wits-End.com
Then you have to release the pin. A small tool is required for that. See this link
Joey also has a couple action shots of using the tool. They are just like any other automotive plug, You have to unlock the pin.
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Then you
 
Our mech at work used to work at Toyota a long time ago so has experience with them. He usually uses those small dental looking picks, and for the squeeze type a variety of pliers, usually long, long, nose plier with a bend at the end, he has some uncommon ones. Seems like there are so many different ways they lock though, and you just have to star at them for a while, he,he, sometimes it doesn't matter with how brittle they can become. I just ordered some cheap waterproof connectors for LEDs, see what the quality looks like incase I ever need to replace any.

Interested to see what tricks others have.
 
Our mech at work used to work at Toyota a long time ago so has experience with them. He usually uses those small dental looking picks, and for the squeeze type a variety of pliers, usually long, long, nose plier with a bend at the end, he has some uncommon ones. Seems like there are so many different ways they lock though, and you just have to star at them for a while, he,he, sometimes it doesn't matter with how brittle they can become. I just ordered some cheap waterproof connectors for LEDs, see what the quality looks like incase I ever need to replace any.

Interested to see what tricks others have.

The can be brittle, especially in the engine bay. They usually break just trying to disconnect them. I am having my injectors cleaned and 3 of the six broke disconnecting them. Got 3 new ones from Wits-End.Com and took maybe 10 minutes to replace all three.
 
I've learned it sometimes helps to take a close up photo of the connector (if I can't get close with my eyes) so I can study the design and find the locking tab. Worst is the connector for the knock sensors IME.
 
I just buy new connector housings +1 extra before I get into a project. I can guarantee a breakage nearly every time I dig in. Installing @NLXTACY SC MAF right now and killed 2 fuel injector connectors and the MAF connector. Probably poor form on my end. His prison shank is legit.
 
Three years. That’s how long my rig Comet has been waiting for this thread. About time someone admitted to what scares me the most. Subscribed.
Are you looking for guidance on how to disconnect them or how to take them apart after they get FUBAR from trying to disconnect?

ih8oldplastic
 
Couldn't agree more on the challenge with the electrical connectors. My frustration lead to some breaking but found it was lack of patience. We have to remember that the cruisers are often 20 years old or more, 80 and 100's. Lots of time for grit, oil,heat, chlor mag etc to get into the area that allows the release of the clip. I never did get the alternator plug off when doing Head Gasket until this spring when installing on Alternator.
The dental tools at Harbor freight for 99 Cents, total of four were the best investment made. Hard to believe but I also started using "Goop" hand cleaner to loosen and remove oil/grit. Blow out with compressed air and gentle wiggle. The dental tools can help push down tabs. With patience I found almost all connector can come loose. Lot better than using a zip tie to hold together or splicing in a new connector. Before splicing check with Toyota as most connectors can be taken apart and reuse the terminals with new connector. Good Luck
 
Since taking up working at @Tools R Us shop after his passing, I’ve found myself working on these quite a bit. A locked axle swap into a 93, an engine wiring harness into a super charged 97 which we made extension harnesses for, and a load of various other ones. It certainly gets easier the more you do it and it helps to have the right instruments for the job.

Currently, I have Joey’s prison shank thing, some trimmed down wiper blade pieces, and a pocket screwdriver I found Kevin had modified on the belt sander (which I further modified for smaller connectors) to get connectors unpinned and I tend to use all three of them depending on the situation. The nice thing about having a very large box of wiring harnesses is that you can go and get the connector you need and practice a bit before going to the truck you’re working on. That definitely helps.

But all of this, of course, can be thrown out the window when dealing with 20+ year old plastic.
 
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Is this the dental pick set people are using? Hook & Pick Set, 6 Pc.

@richardlillard1 got a photo of Kevin's custom screwdriver?

I can imagine a clean "practice harness" would be a super valuable tool, although not exactly cheap to acquire :eek:
 
Is this the dental pick set people are using? Hook & Pick Set, 6 Pc.

@richardlillard1 got a photo of Kevin's custom screwdriver?

I can imagine a clean "practice harness" would be a super valuable tool, although not exactly cheap to acquire :eek:

Our practice harness box consists of a bunch of junk harnesses from past projects, so while they were useless after a job was finished, they’re still paid for by hours of hard work.

I’m not at the shop today but I will be tomorrow morning. If I remember I’ll pull it out and grab some pictures of it. Once upon a time Kevin was a Cornwell tool salesman, so it’s a Cornwell pocket screwdriver with his name on it. Pretty f-ing neat.

Those picks would work fine, I’m guessing. But to be honest I don’t find myself going for a pick all that often. Joey’s tool is great because it comes to a sharper point and can work as a pick. The wiper blade and screwdriver tool are more flat shaped and good for setting up against the release tab and then pulling back.

The only time it really sucks is on the older, brittle plastics. In some instances I’ve had the little lock tab break off in which case it’s back to the box to find one that plays nice.

For @inkpot (the aforementioned supercharged 97) we bought new connectors from Toyota for extension harnesses. They came out nice, but I needed to pay more attention to wire routing because I switched a couple and the first start up made for some erratic idle conditions! :doh: But thankfully those were a quick fix once the issue was identified.
 
Is this the dental pick set people are using? Hook & Pick Set, 6 Pc.

@richardlillard1 got a photo of Kevin's custom screwdriver?

I can imagine a clean "practice harness" would be a super valuable tool, although not exactly cheap to acquire :eek:
Hi There
Here is the mini pick set I was describing.
Often found with coupon for 99 Cents or cheaper
 
The fsm shows every type of connector on an 80 and how they lock together. Their close tolerances is what makes them so impervious to Mother Nature.
 
The fsm shows every type of connector on an 80 and how they lock together. Their close tolerances is what makes them so impervious to Mother Nature.
Is this in the EWD? I have looked through my FSM and didn't find that level of detail. Maybe I'm in the wrong section?
 
Is this in the EWD? I have looked through my FSM and didn't find that level of detail. Maybe I'm in the wrong section?
I think you are right. This is from my 94 EWD I belive. Take a look. Seems there was a more of master sheet I've seen.

 
Wow, that's helpful. I found this picture in the EFI section, but that's just one connector type


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Putting up a screen shot from the document you just linked in case the link goes stale someday:

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I assume this is a description of the "prison shank" tool?

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