Towing with your LX470 or LC with AHC (6 Viewers)

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Hedgesville, WV
Hello all

I've read a lot of threads on here about towing. For those of you with AHC do you tow without a weight distribution hitch? Do you have air bags? How much does your trailer weigh? What's the tongue weight. I'd like actual first hand knowledge from those who know. Please keep the comments to actual first hand knowledge and not speculation. I'm getting ready to start towing a 4000lb dry weight TT with a 519lb advertised tongue weight so I'm looking for your experiences.
 
I'd have to check, but I don;t think my 2005 100 Middle East spec with AHC officially allows that tongue weight. For sure no Euro trailer hitches allow that weight.

Bottom line is just to check what total weight is allowed for your rig (should be in your manual or often on a decal somewhere on the body usually the B-pillar), and think whether you will exceed that when taking into account the tongue weight. Keep in mind that tongue weight is as far back as could possibly be and will impact mainly rear AHC.

Towing weight of 4000lb should not be a problem, all Euro rigs are allowed to tow 3500kgs so nearly double your dry weight, but that's for braked trailers only. These weights are specified and certified by Toyota and apply to all EU 100's (European Certificate of Conformity).
 
I tow my TT that has very similar specs with as yours with my 99 LX470.

It will do it but as LandCrusierPhil stated, it will do it better with the assistance of airbags. I have had times where I have had no issues but others where the AHC refuses to hold the weight and drops into Low.
 
Search you will find the info you are asking for.

Your Lexus will ride like XXXX without airbags BTDT

LandCruiserPhil, I too am new to towing a trailer. What do you mean by this need for airbags?
Would a weight distribution hitch work without the need for airbags?
Heck, I have no idea what "airbags" look like, their cost, or anything about them.
 
We are towing our Kimberley Kamper without any issues, no airbags or weight distributor.
 
LandCruiserPhil, I too am new to towing a trailer. What do you mean by this need for airbags?
Would a weight distribution hitch work without the need for airbags?
Heck, I have no idea what "airbags" look like, their cost, or anything about them.

For me air bags make towing with AHC work
Towing with AHC

Some people say AHC can handle it but once you exceed AHC capabilities it goes into limp mode and default to the AHC low setting. Your static trailer tongue might be OK but once you start hitting dips in the road at speed the weight the AHC see could be mant times more then the static weight and then the AHC goes into default:(
 
I've towed my 3500lb Casita with my LX 470 quite a bit, and the LX450 before that. Foot to floor most of time with the 450 and same in the hills with the 470., 3rd-4th gear.

Overall weight with electric brakes is not an issue, but that's a lot of tongue weight.

Are you really going to pull it dry or have you determined your total weight?

You have roughly 1200lbs of capacity to work with. You need to figure what's left over for the trailer tongue weight after loading family and gear.

If you find you need more capacity then the, relatively, easiest solution is air bags.

I use a small sway control bar, but not a WDH.

All that said, depending on the age and health of your AHC you may find it won't lift from low to normal when rigging up. High shouldn't be a consideration, but does help on hook up.

A more expensive solution is the 200, which tows wonderfully, but cost more than air bags and still suffers from overall capacity constraints. :)
 
That load will tow easy peasy. AHC will make it a breeze. You're better off with AHC than a standard suspension landy, which will definitely not work stock and be dragging its ass. That said, make sure the AHC is in a good state of tune as over time, the stock springs will sag putting more load on the AHC system. Lookup calibration and how to achieve good neutral pressures.

I've towed many things with my AHC equipped '06 LX470 over the years. Car trailers @ ~5500lbs. Airstream @ 6000 lbs. Setups with easily over 800-1k tongue. I've always ensured my neutral pressures are solid. I do have a set of airbags sitting in the garage, but have not found the need to install them yet.

BTW, if the AHC system indicates "L", don't take that as a sign it is in limp mode. It's simply telling you that the ride height is lower, as it transfers more load to the mechanical spring. Just like a sagging butt standard sprung setup would be. Except it will be still be quite level and still ride buttery with good damping. 1200lbs is its constant height weight handling. Beyond that, it puts more weight on the mechanical spring by dropping ride height.

Towing power is great, with VVTi! Even with 33's, pulling over the rockies and grapevine are non issues. I'm not the slowest by far, and didn't need to stay in the far right with the truckers. Let her rev, as that's how gas motors make their power.

I've not needed to fall back to L in these setups, with the exception of the Airstream, where I was full on all water tanks in one leg, and also put too much in the car hatch. Shifted load around a bit in the trailer by moving stuff to over the axle, and all is well.
DSC_9519.jpg
airstream.jpg
LXand966TTsmall.jpg
 
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That load will tow easy peasy. AHC will make it a breeze. You're better off with AHC than a standard suspension landy, which will definitely not work stock and be dragging its ass. That said, make sure the AHC is in a good state of tune as over time, the stock springs will sag putting more load on the AHC system. Lookup calibration and how to achieve good neutral pressures.

I've towed many things with my AHC equipped '06 LX470 over the years. Car trailers @ ~5500lbs. Airstream @ 6000 lbs. Setups with easily over 800-1k tongue. I've always ensured my neutral pressures are solid. I do have a set of airbags sitting in the garage, but have not found the need to install them yet.

BTW, if the AHC system indicates "L", don't take that as a sign it is in limp mode. It's simply telling you that the ride height is lower, as it transfers more load to the mechanical spring. Just like a sagging butt standard sprung setup would be. Except it will be still be quite level and still ride buttery with good damping. 1200lbs is its constant height weight handling. Beyond that, it puts more weight on the mechanical spring by dropping ride height.

Towing power is great, with VVTi! Even with 33's, pulling over the rockies and grapevine are non issues. I'm not the slowest by far, and didn't need to stay in the far right with the truckers. Let her rev, as that's how gas motors make their power.

I've not needed to fall back to L in these setups, with the exception of the Airstream, where I was full on all water tanks in one leg, and also put too much in the car hatch. Shifted load around a bit in the trailer by moving stuff to over the axle, and all is well.
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I had read in the owners manual that it may indicate being in Low but to just go that it really isn't. So you don't use weight distribution or a sway control?
 
I had read in the owners manual that it may indicate being in Low but to just go that it really isn't.

Correct. The readout has 2 purposes: 1) height selection 2) height status

The low in this case is not the same as if you would select low (for ingress/egress). When using the selected low, there's almost no damping. In height status low with load, the ride is well controlled and damped. It's just telling you that it's no longer in constant height mode.

So you don't use weight distribution or a sway control?

With a travel trailer, I would absolutely recommend weight distribution and sway control. I've had great success using an Andersen 'No-Sway' Weight Distribution Hitch (Amazon.com: Andersen 3380 - Andersen 'No-Sway' Weight Distribution Hitch - 8" Drop/Rise, 2-5/16" Ball, Universal Frame Brackets (3", 4", 5" & 6"): Automotive). It's light weight and easy to setup/use, and comes with a receiver ball. Absolutely no drama and tows great.

With a TT, I would not consider towing without some form of sway/weight control. Not that I've had any bad experience, but it just gives and added level of stability for just in case situations. That said, I've never used one with the U-Haul car trailers and they've been solid as well.

Note that tongue weight is your friend to an extent. It's actually good for stability. Be very careful of too little tongue weight. Rule of thumb is 10-15%. Make sure you have the brake bias on the brake controller setup right. You should never feel like the trailer is pushing the car. Turn up the brake trailer gain if that's the case.
 
Shaggy, you didn't mention what year your hundy is? Just note that my comments and experience, especially in regards to towing power, are specific to my '06 which has VVTi and the 5 speed transmission. Both of which seem to make a big difference when towing larger loads. Additionally, Airstreams and car trailers are much friendlier aero wise than most travel trailers.

Just want to make sure you're aware of that potential difference before you jump too far in.
 
I have a 2002 LX. And I will be towing this.
Shaggy, you didn't mention what year your hundy is? Just note that my comments and experience, especially in regards to towing power, are specific to my '06 which has VVTi and the 5 speed transmission. Both of which seem to make a big difference when towing larger loads. Additionally, Airstreams and car trailers are much friendlier aero wise than most travel trailers.

Just want to make sure you're aware of that potential difference before you jump too far in.


I have a 2002 LX. I wil be towing this which is not as aerodynamic as your TT.
23lb.jpg
 
Shaggy, I too have a 2002 LX470 and would like to know how much I can comfortably tow.
BTW, how much is the dry weight and length of that trailer?
I spent this weekend looking and thinking about an R-Pod or Real-Lite RV - both approximately 3,000 lbs dry.
 
Shaggy, I too have a 2002 LX470 and would like to know how much I can comfortably tow.
BTW, how much is the dry weight and length of that trailer?
I spent this weekend looking and thinking about an R-Pod or Real-Lite RV - both approximately 3,000 lbs dry.


This is a 23LB microlite. It weighs 4014. Tongue weight of 519. The advertised weight for these is about 3850. My weight is as it left the factory with options. I looked at R Pods but they're too small for me. I don't anticipate any trouble with pulling this. I am ordering a weight dist hitch and brake controller. I pulled it about 8 miles the other day with my 99 Land Rover Discovery which has less power than the LX. I had no sway or weight dist and kept it slow on side roads. It definitely made the Disco sag and I knew it was back there.
 
Shaggy, I too have a 2002 LX470 and would like to know how much I can comfortably tow.
BTW, how much is the dry weight and length of that trailer?
I spent this weekend looking and thinking about an R-Pod or Real-Lite RV - both approximately 3,000 lbs dry.

I towed over 3000 lbs up the Kicking Horse pass (BC, Canada) a few weeks back without any trouble... just remember to switch overdrive off. Tow capacity is 6500lbs for my 2001, but...she's definitely a slow ride with that kind of weight.
 
I've already installed and wired up the Prodigy 3 Brake Controller and mounted it in the Ash Tray.
So I am ready - just can't decide what TT to purchase.

The R-Pod does seem small but there is a very satisfied following of owners.

Would like something larger but don't want to overtask my LX.
 
Hello all

I've read a lot of threads on here about towing. For those of you with AHC do you tow without a weight distribution hitch? Do you have air bags? How much does your trailer weigh? What's the tongue weight. I'd like actual first hand knowledge from those who know. Please keep the comments to actual first hand knowledge and not speculation. I'm getting ready to start towing a 4000lb dry weight TT with a 519lb advertised tongue weight so I'm looking for your experiences.

The best thing to do (and easiest on your vehicle) is to use a weight distributing hitch. As previously mentioned...it isn't the 'static' load you are concerned with. The REAL world dynamics of towing will put more force and strain on your vehicle.

A WDH can be set up such that the rear of your vehicle will remain nearly level, it will take a LOT of the tongue weight off of the point of the hitch ball. 'Most' come with some manner of 'sway control'. If you've ever experienced a trailer doing that serpentine dance behind your vehicle, then you know why sway control is important.

Your vehicle has a relatively short wheel base, so inherently....it is harder to tow with. Be sure all tires on both your trailer and your vehicle are at near max pressure.

A decent WDH doesn't have to be expensive for the amount of weight you are talking about.

Here is one example of a kit that has everything you need: Pro Series Weight Distribution System w Friction Sway Control - Round - 10,000 lbs GTW, 1,000 lbs TW Pro Series Weight Distribution PS49903

I've been in the RV business for almost 30 years, for what that's worth....the above is my experienced recommendation for YOUR application.

I have a 99 LX470 and see no reason to put any extra load on the AHC system if it can be avoided. Most older vehicles have worn rear coil springs, which means the hydraulic system is taking more of the load.

'Globes' are about $300.00 a piece, why strain them?
 
What is the advantage of the Pro Series Weight Distribution Hitch versus the
Fastway 94-00-0800 Round Bar Weight Distribution Hitch ?

One uses chains and the other does not.
 

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