One of my many personality defects!
Towing with a 200 Series
- Thread starter Gappy
- Start date
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Just adding my towing experience here for what it's worth. I recently towed a 5000lb trailer with a hitch weight of around 700lbs 2000 miles over all sorts of mountain passes in Colorado.
In ECT and sport mode the cruiser will yank the trailer up passes at about 3500-4000 rpm no problem. I did encounter overheating brakes on the way down big passes which I mitigated by going to manual and using engine brake on way down. Never had brake issues again. I did have a good amount of sag even with my hensley cub weight distribution system. BTW Hensley makes no sway hitches... and I mean that. 70mph storm gusts, trucks... NO SWAY. I used a Curt Echo brake controller which was fine for the most part. My only critique is that its sometimes harsh when braking on flat surfaces, meaning when the brakes come on they hit too hard and cause some jumpiness.
Due to the sag I am in the process of adding high pressure coilrite airbags in the rear springs. Just for my own feeling of safety I am also installing bigger brakes (rotors and ceramic pads) to avoid any potential heat issues moving forward. I felt most vulnerable going down long passes where braking distance felt really compromised. That should be fixed with Powerstop Z36ers. Will report back on key differences.
In ECT and sport mode the cruiser will yank the trailer up passes at about 3500-4000 rpm no problem. I did encounter overheating brakes on the way down big passes which I mitigated by going to manual and using engine brake on way down. Never had brake issues again. I did have a good amount of sag even with my hensley cub weight distribution system. BTW Hensley makes no sway hitches... and I mean that. 70mph storm gusts, trucks... NO SWAY. I used a Curt Echo brake controller which was fine for the most part. My only critique is that its sometimes harsh when braking on flat surfaces, meaning when the brakes come on they hit too hard and cause some jumpiness.
Due to the sag I am in the process of adding high pressure coilrite airbags in the rear springs. Just for my own feeling of safety I am also installing bigger brakes (rotors and ceramic pads) to avoid any potential heat issues moving forward. I felt most vulnerable going down long passes where braking distance felt really compromised. That should be fixed with Powerstop Z36ers. Will report back on key differences.
I am having a crazy (?) idea of pulling a 7x14 cargo trailer with my 200. ATC Sto 400, aluminium dual axle trailer. 7700 lbs. GVWR. Unladen weight under 2000 lbs.
I don't plan on loading it up to the gills, but how do I determine the tongue weight is ok, short of taking the rig to a scale? I am planning on stiffer springs anyway, and I suppose airbags are in my future. Not sure about weight distributing hitch, but looks like that is highly recommended. But then I am reading weight distribution hitches do not play nicely with aluminum frames...
I don't plan on loading it up to the gills, but how do I determine the tongue weight is ok, short of taking the rig to a scale? I am planning on stiffer springs anyway, and I suppose airbags are in my future. Not sure about weight distributing hitch, but looks like that is highly recommended. But then I am reading weight distribution hitches do not play nicely with aluminum frames...
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This is what I use.
The weight you’re describing is within the limits of your Cruiser so you should be fine assuming the trailer has brakes.
If you’re okay with a bit of mathematics and have a bathroom scale, you can use this method. Just ignore the Range Rover.
Yeah brakes on both axles. I am going to add the Redarc controller.
I'd roll it.
Couple things
- Don't be afraid of tongue weight as that may actually help with more stability. Obviously you don't want it to squat ridiculously either. Ideally the load in the trailer is just forward or over the trailer axles. Minimize mass behind the trailer axles.
- Can't emphasize this enough but choose a hitch that keeps the ball as close and tight to the rear bumper as possible. Any extra projection is going to give tongue weight and trailer more leverage for squat and sway. Every extra inch the ball is away from the rear bumper is like losing 2 in of wheelbase.
Got it. I will be towing it home (empty) first with stock suspension. The truck has 125k miles, but the rear springs have ~55k miles. Originals died on me and I replaced them with nearly new stockers on the way to LCDC in 2021... also added a 10cm coil spacer. Truck has been sitting pretty ok since then, so I hope they will hold the empty trailer ok. Before towing heavier loads I am going with Bilsteins with a stiffer OME rear springs and I guess I will add air bags while there.
lucky i found this thread.
I'm moving back to TX, and I'm trying to figure out how to get my shat there in a sorta budget-friendly manner.
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It’s all about Weight. 7x16 is small
- Thread starter
- #31
This old thread of mine popped up from a recent "like".
My 200 only lasted a year as a DD back in 2019 then it transitioned to what it is now because I like it enough that I didn't want to winter drive it in the Midwest. It now has 65k and I love it more every year as I watch new vehicles getting further and further away from what I like in a vehicle.
Long live the 200!
My 200 only lasted a year as a DD back in 2019 then it transitioned to what it is now because I like it enough that I didn't want to winter drive it in the Midwest. It now has 65k and I love it more every year as I watch new vehicles getting further and further away from what I like in a vehicle.
Long live the 200!
Totally. I own two 200s, and they will outlast me I think.
