Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (20 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

I towed my Jeep Liberty CRD with a Penske trailer behind a Penske E450 box truck. That trailer put so much tongue weight on the truck that I slid through a red light with the front tires locked up just trying to come to a casual stop. Penske of course required that they setup the trailer. I got home and put the jeep on backwards(to get the diesel motor weight over the trailer tires) and put some wood blocks between the tires and chocks to shift it back. Still was pretty tongue heavy even after that but at least I could stop.

Anyways, just be careful, those trailers scare me now.

If I had to guess, the problem was only partly tongue weight. More an issue that it is compounded by the amount of rear overhang that a box truck has. That is the distance from the rear axle to the hitch/ball on a box truck can be really long such that it gives the trailer more leverage.

This is such a key dimension most are unaware of. More important that wheelbase because that's a simplification for the masses. It's really about wheelbase versus rear overhang. Which is why a 5th wheel or semi truck trailer is more stable. It has no overhang to give leverage to the trailer, as the ball is directly over the rear axle.

In setting up any tow vehicle, you want the ball as close and tight to the bumper / rear axle, as possible. Avoiding any unnecessary extra projection to clear things like tailgates, swingout tire carriers, etc. These really compromise towing performance for things like you described and also sway.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Here's a WTF moment to cheer up your Monday...

Twice in the past ~two weeks I've found that the safety clip which goes through my hitch's pin is nowhere to be found... while I'm towing.

First time was after just coming home. Disconnecting the travel trailer and my jaw dropped when the clip was not there, despite it being very much there when I hooked up a few days earlier. I disconnected the trailer in camp, but left the hitch in the entire time. Didn't look at it again until coming home. I thought that someone had messed with the hitch in the campground and brushed it off as something that'll never happen again. That was the original clip which came with my Andersen hitch and pin.

Used a different clip for the latest trip this past Friday. Didn't disconnect the trailer from the truck at all, and on the way home today I again found that the clip is missing! This was an entirely different camping spot, 5 hours in the opposite direction. Thankfully I had a few replacement clips in my recovery gear, which allowed me to tow the rest of the ~4.5 hours home.

So... WTF.

The only thing that comes to mind is that perhaps the clip is contacting the protruding "lip" of the receiver, and somehow getting pushed out? I'm honestly baffled both by how it's happening and how to prevent it from happening again. I've towed dozens of trailers hundreds of times with this LX, and have never had this happen before.

 

[GordJ]

Here's a WTF moment to cheer up your Monday...

Twice in the past ~two weeks I've found that the safety clip which goes through my hitch's pin is nowhere to be found... while I'm towing.

First time was after just coming home. Disconnecting the travel trailer and my jaw dropped when the clip was not there, despite it being very much there when I hooked up a few days earlier. I disconnected the trailer in camp, but left the hitch in the entire time. Didn't look at it again until coming home. I thought that someone had messed with the hitch in the campground and brushed it off as something that'll never happen again. That was the original clip which came with my Andersen hitch and pin.

Used a different clip for the latest trip this past Friday. Didn't disconnect the trailer from the truck at all, and on the way home today I again found that the clip is missing! This was an entirely different camping spot, 5 hours in the opposite direction. Thankfully I had a few replacement clips in my recovery gear, which allowed me to tow the rest of the ~4.5 hours home.

So... WTF.

The only thing that comes to mind is that perhaps the clip is contacting the protruding "lip" of the receiver, and somehow getting pushed out? I'm honestly baffled both by how it's happening and how to prevent it from happening again. I've towed dozens of trailers hundreds of times with this LX, and have never had this happen before.

I had a similar experience years ago where I had bottomed out in a hole and lost the pin while away from the trailer. When I went to hook up to go home on a holiday Monday I found that I no longer had an insert or ball. Twenty years ago in small town BC there were not a lot of places to access towing supplies but I was able to acquire one and go home. Since then I have had a locking pin. https://a.co/d/bNir5hB This one is what I ended up on because the lock doesn't turn when you try to use the key and the straight ones are very hard for my old hands to insert key, hold tumbler and wiggle key to turn dirty lock.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I had a similar experience years ago where I had bottomed out in a hole and lost the pin while away from the trailer. When I went to hook up to go home on a holiday Monday I found that I no longer had an insert or ball. Twenty years ago in small town BC there were not a lot of places to access towing supplies but I was able to acquire one and go home. Since then I have had a locking pin. https://a.co/d/bNir5hB This one is what I ended up on because the lock doesn't turn when you try to use the key and the straight ones are very hard for my old hands to insert key, hold tumbler and wiggle key to turn dirty lock.

Thanks for the link - that's more or less the direction I'll be going in.

Andersen does offer their own locking pins with a shear rating of 30,000lbs (vs this pin's "loads up to 10,000lbs"), but it has the less user-friendly design that you described.

I'm still very interested in finding out what exactly has been happening to cause losing these clips. Zero off-roading in both cases - purely highway driving, with (at most) a couple kilometres of forest service roads in the first case.

My trailer is still hooked up outside, but once the weather cooperates again I'll clean what I planned to clean, park it for the winter, and then try to figure out how the pin is coming loose.

 

[GordJ]

Thanks for the link - that's more or less the direction I'll be going in.

Andersen does offer their own locking pins with a shear rating of 30,000lbs (vs this pin's "loads up to 10,000lbs"), but it has the less user-friendly design that you described.

I'm still very interested in finding out what exactly has been happening to cause losing these clips. Zero off-roading in both cases - purely highway driving, with (at most) a couple kilometres of forest service roads in the first case.

My trailer is still hooked up outside, but once the weather cooperates again I'll clean what I planned to clean, park it for the winter, and then try to figure out how the pin is coming loose.

Lol, I forgot that it was you! I was camped at Tunkwa and went over to Island (Big OK) when I lost my cotter pin and insert. Trying to find someone open in Logan lake on a holiday Monday, probably 30 years ago, was tough but I got someone doing a personal project at a welding shop to sell me his insert and ball. If you order the one on Amazon (I didn't think that I paid that much) make sure that you get the longer shank, Toyotas need more pin length. I'm assuming that you are using one of the "bobby pin" cotter pins?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Lol, I forgot that it was you! I was camped at Tunkwa and went over to Island (Big OK) when I lost my cotter pin and insert. Trying to find someone open in Logan lake on a holiday Monday, probably 30 years ago, was tough but I got someone doing a personal project at a welding shop to sell me his insert and ball. If you order the one on Amazon (I didn't think that I paid that much) make sure that you get the longer shank, Toyotas need more pin length. I'm assuming that you are using one of the "bobby pin" cotter pins?

Yup.

This is the pin + clip that came with my hitch. The pin itself is fine, but that bobby-pin-like clip is the part that keeps vanishing on me. I wonder if part of the issue is the diametre of the clip's metal... it was somewhat loose in the pin's hole, and perhaps that contributed to movement that led to the eventual problem. Just a theory...

 

[Nothinghead]

I'm still very interested in finding out what exactly has been happening to cause losing these clips. Zero off-roading in both cases - purely highway driving, with (at most) a couple kilometres of forest service roads in the first case.

Do you happen to travel with kids? This sounds like something my kid would pull.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Do you happen to travel with kids? This sounds like something my kid would pull.

I do, but mine is just under 16 months old. Couldn't pull one of these out even under my direction. Heck, I'm pretty sure even my wife doesn't have the finger strength to pull this clip out.

 

[Sandroad]

Here's a WTF moment to cheer up your Monday...

Twice in the past ~two weeks I've found that the safety clip which goes through my hitch's pin is nowhere to be found... while I'm towing.

First time was after just coming home. Disconnecting the travel trailer and my jaw dropped when the clip was not there, despite it being very much there when I hooked up a few days earlier. I disconnected the trailer in camp, but left the hitch in the entire time. Didn't look at it again until coming home. I thought that someone had messed with the hitch in the campground and brushed it off as something that'll never happen again. That was the original clip which came with my Andersen hitch and pin.

Used a different clip for the latest trip this past Friday. Didn't disconnect the trailer from the truck at all, and on the way home today I again found that the clip is missing! This was an entirely different camping spot, 5 hours in the opposite direction. Thankfully I had a few replacement clips in my recovery gear, which allowed me to tow the rest of the ~4.5 hours home.

So... WTF.

The only thing that comes to mind is that perhaps the clip is contacting the protruding "lip" of the receiver, and somehow getting pushed out? I'm honestly baffled both by how it's happening and how to prevent it from happening again. I've towed dozens of trailers hundreds of times with this LX, and have never had this happen before.

I had exactly the same experience. There is something about the geometry of the hitch area on the 200 that can lead to lost clips. It’s scary. This pin from Master Lock solves the problem and is really easy to use in that tiny area next to the drawbar.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COX0MY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[TeCKis300]

Wow, not an isolated incident. Almost deserves a PSA.

I almost exclusively use a lock, but have used a pin a few times.

 

[Artie]

Here's a WTF moment to cheer up your Monday...

Twice in the past ~two weeks I've found that the safety clip which goes through my hitch's pin is nowhere to be found... while I'm towing.

First time was after just coming home. Disconnecting the travel trailer and my jaw dropped when the clip was not there, despite it being very much there when I hooked up a few days earlier. I disconnected the trailer in camp, but left the hitch in the entire time. Didn't look at it again until coming home. I thought that someone had messed with the hitch in the campground and brushed it off as something that'll never happen again. That was the original clip which came with my Andersen hitch and pin.

Used a different clip for the latest trip this past Friday. Didn't disconnect the trailer from the truck at all, and on the way home today I again found that the clip is missing! This was an entirely different camping spot, 5 hours in the opposite direction. Thankfully I had a few replacement clips in my recovery gear, which allowed me to tow the rest of the ~4.5 hours home.

So... WTF.

The only thing that comes to mind is that perhaps the clip is contacting the protruding "lip" of the receiver, and somehow getting pushed out? I'm honestly baffled both by how it's happening and how to prevent it from happening again. I've towed dozens of trailers hundreds of times with this LX, and have never had this happen before.

Moving forward, the potential for catastrophe is more than I’d care to risk. Locking hitch pin like yesterday. I use this one from factor55, it fits well inside the dissent bumper and has been solid for 30k miles worth of towing.

I would love to know how it worked itself out. I’ve lost 2 antirattle hitch devices (I finally found one that works so that issue is solved) so there is a lot of movement happening on the ball mount.

I wonder if you could recreate this with just you moving the ball mount around?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Our camping season wrapped up with this last trip, so I'm not in any rush at the moment, but will 100% pick up a locking pin for next season.

I wonder if you could recreate this with just you moving the ball mount around?

I will absolutely do that in the next few days. I'll remove the hitch altogether and just use the pin + clip through the LX's receiver to see if I can simulate enough movement to cause an issue. The pin can slide left/right a good 0.5-1" with everything attached, plus spin on its axis, and there's likely a spot where the problem will become evident.

For now the LX is still sitting on the road in front of my house with the trailer attached. I need the trailer awning to dry out fully before I back it into the driveway (where the neighbouring property doesn't give me the room needed to dry the awning), and as luck would have it, it has been raining almost non stop since we got home last night. Managed to find a 30 minute interval to actually wash the awning, but need it fully dry before I roll it up and park the trailer (for the winter). We very rarely get rainfall here, especially for prolonged periods of time, so this is frustrating timing.

 

[Dunbar]

I had a round key locking pin lose the locked end on the highway. Wife was driving the Excursion with our small 4x8 enclosed trailer. A passing car hailed us. I looked back and the trailer was low in the front, obviously riding on the little rubber wheel on the jack. She pulled to the side of the highway and I found the pin gone. I put a socket extension through and taped it. Got us to the next exit and an auto parts store .

 

[JohnPW]

I had exactly the same experience. There is something about the geometry of the hitch area on the 200 that can lead to lost clips. It’s scary. This pin from Master Lock solves the problem and is really easy to use in that tiny area next to the drawbar.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COX0MY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I have used this pin with my 2016 LC for several years and I really like it. It’s easy and quick to use, and is always secure. I use it towing my boat and also for hitch carriers. I highly recommend.

Note that in spite of being sold by Master Lock, there is no locking mechanism to prevent someone from removing it. If theft is a concern, pick a locking pin like the one linked by GordJ above. But the Master Lock type linked by Sandroad is easier to use than the versions with a key IMO.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Any of you using a TPMS on your trailers?
I'm considering getting the TST system* with internal sensors since the trailer is going into the shop in Nov to get additional lithium batteries anyway.

*REF:
507 Series 4 Internal Sensor TPMS System Color Display and Repeater - https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-internal-sensor-tpms-system-color-display-and-repeatertst-507-int-4-c.html

EDIT: found out that the TPMS repeater that forwards signals from the TPMS sensors to the display in the tow vehicle runs at 433 Mhz. This means it will not conflict with my trailer's rear camera which runs at 2.4 GHz.

 

[a200]

Any of you using a TPMS on your trailers?
I'm considering getting the TST system* with internal sensors since the trailer is going into the shop in Nov to get additional lithium batteries anyway.

*REF:
507 Series 4 Internal Sensor TPMS System Color Display and Repeater - https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-internal-sensor-tpms-system-color-display-and-repeatertst-507-int-4-c.html

I have external sensors with metal valve stems. I will 100% do internal sensors next time.

 

[Artie]

Any of you using a TPMS on your trailers?
I'm considering getting the TST system* with internal sensors since the trailer is going into the shop in Nov to get additional lithium batteries anyway.

*REF:
507 Series 4 Internal Sensor TPMS System Color Display and Repeater - https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-internal-sensor-tpms-system-color-display-and-repeatertst-507-int-4-c.html

I’m using the ARB Linx internal sensors. I went the Linx route because I needed something to manage my airbags, rear locker, and a bunch of outputs and having it all in one system made the most sense to me.

All that to say that I would do TPMS any way I could to have that feature. It’s very handy and there is also a big safety benefit to it as well.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

I’m using the ARB Linx internal sensors. I went the Linx route because I needed something to manage my airbags, rear locker, and a bunch of outputs and having it all in one system made the most sense to me.

All that to say that I would do TPMS any way I could to have that feature. It’s very handy and there is also a big safety benefit to it as well.

I checked into the Linx system. Very interesting! I did notice that the TST and Linx repeater looked a wee tad similar. Perhaps it's just a coincidence.
TST repeater:

Linx repeater:

 

[Artie]

I checked into the Linx system. Very interesting! I did notice that the TST and Linx repeater looked a wee tad similar. Perhaps it's just a coincidence.
TST repeater:
View attachment 3751592

Linx repeater:
View attachment 3751593

Doesn’t surprise me. Most of this electronic stuff is made in China and rebranded many different ways, often with proprietary software which silos end users in a captured environment which is so frustrating.

For instance, the internal ARB sensors are your standard schrader TPMS 33500 but you can’t just program a schrader, you have to buy them from ARB because they transmit on a particular frequency. I went through this with ARB because I wanted to program schraders myself, the ARB guy said it could be done but they would not give out the frequency. He intimated that if you were able to guess the vehicle that used the same frequency then you could program that way. Scrolling through the schrader programming computer you quickly realize you have similar odds of winning the mega millions…

 

[Sandroad]

Any of you using a TPMS on your trailers?
I'm considering getting the TST system* with internal sensors since the trailer is going into the shop in Nov to get additional lithium batteries anyway.

*REF:
507 Series 4 Internal Sensor TPMS System Color Display and Repeater - https://tsttruck.com/507-series-4-internal-sensor-tpms-system-color-display-and-repeatertst-507-int-4-c.html

EDIT: found out that the TPMS repeater that forwards signals from the TPMS sensors to the display in the tow vehicle runs at 433 Mhz. This means it will not conflict with my trailer's rear camera which runs at 2.4 GHz.

Absolutely. I consider TPMS a critical safety feature. I use a very simple and very reliable TireMinder solar powered system that reports both pressure and temperature. This is the base system, if you have a medium to long trailer, you’ll need to add a TireMinder repeater (433MHz). I replace the batteries in the sensors each year and it’s worked well for 1000s of miles and several years.

https://www.amazon.com/TireMinder-Solar-Powered-Trailer-TPMS/dp/B0797N22B7/ref=asc_df_B0797N22B7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693447639262&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8381050203697745273&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019499&hvtargid=pla-493869423541&mcid=cbd9817beb7135e39712ede99c55b40e&th=1