Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (8 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

Now that gas is headed for $10 /Gal , I am driving from Seattle to LA next week to pick up my 2022 Airstream Basecamp 20X. My LC is a 2017 and I have settled on an Andersen LD hitch setup and I am rolling on KO2s 285/75/17s. Any tips from the tribe?

Congrats!!

Biggest tip is to relax and enjoy the journey. Towing is a different ball game and speed is the biggest fuel factor.

 

[Missionary Kid]

Buy oil futures

It's a little late for that...LOL.

 

[Missionary Kid]

Congrats!!

Biggest tip is to relax and enjoy the journey. Towing is a different ball game and speed is the biggest fuel factor.

Thanks. I have towed a fair bit in the past with my 100 series (Super Air Nautique), but short trips, less than 100 miles. This will be different.

 

[tpatrickmc]

Hey all, I'm wondering about the difference in towing with a ~2014 LC vs LX570? The listed tow capacity is a lot different. I know the LX is a bit heavier (350lbs?) but otherwise, what might I expect in "feeling" the difference - if any - between the two? My camper and boat are both less than 4klbs wet but I want to be towing as easy as possible. I will likely get a heavier (~500lb) camper at some point. My 2003 LC is "built" and heavy and I really want add a 200 series as family/tow vehicle but hard to find the right one these days, so an LX may be the fit. Thanks in advance...I am not an experienced "tower" (just 1 year in) and I have never driven a 200/570. Thanks!

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Hey all, I'm wondering about the difference in towing with a ~2014 LC vs LX570? The listed tow capacity is a lot different. I know the LX is a bit heavier (350lbs?) but otherwise, what might I expect in "feeling" the difference - if any - between the two? My camper and boat are both less than 4klbs wet but I want to be towing as easy as possible. I will likely get a heavier (~500lb) camper at some point. My 2003 LC is "built" and heavy and I really want add a 200 series as family/tow vehicle but hard to find the right one these days, so an LX may be the fit. Thanks in advance...I am not an experienced "tower" (just 1 year in) and I have never driven a 200/570. Thanks!

The capability of both vehicles will be borderline identical, differentiated only by the minor weight differences.

Compare the official tow capacity for a 2008 LX570 and 2008 LC 200 - both are at 8500lbs. At some point later, both capacities were officially decreased, the LC 200 to around 8200lbs, and the LX570 to 7000lbs. As I understand it, these were done due to changes in regulartions/laws, not due to any changes of the vehicles themselves. The 2014 models still have identical engines, brakes, transmissions, frames, tow hitches, suspension, etc. Identical vehicles, but now rated differently.

The biggest difference is AHC in the LX, which is a huge win for towing. It supports heavy tongue weights much better than static (traditional) suspension, and will self-level the vehicle once the trailer has been attached. This improves handling, towing dynamics, weight distribution, etc.

If your primary goal for a new vehicle is towing, a 3/4 or 1-ton truck may be a better option than either 200 series. But that said, a 4000-4500lb trailer will be a joke of a task for both the LC and the LX. Beyond weight, consider the physical size of the trailer, the towing setup, weight distribution, etc. A very long trailer would not be a good match for the LC/LX due to its relatively short wheelbase, but a heavier yer shorter trailer may be just fine. Lots of variables at play.

 

[GordJ]

I agree with everything that esw says about towing with the 200 but I'm not sure if the LC has the "towing anti sway" that the LX has. I had it kick in once on the LX and it stopped the "unsteadiness" that my foolishness had caused immediately. I do know that the '14 LX is a nicer tow vehicle than the '08 LC.

 

[tpatrickmc]

The capability of both vehicles will be borderline identical, differentiated only by the minor weight differences.

Compare the official tow capacity for a 2008 LX570 and 2008 LC 200 - both are at 8500lbs. At some point later, both capacities were officially decreased, the LC 200 to around 8200lbs, and the LX570 to 7000lbs. As I understand it, these were done due to changes in regulartions/laws, not due to any changes of the vehicles themselves. The 2014 models still have identical engines, brakes, transmissions, frames, tow hitches, suspension, etc. Identical vehicles, but now rated differently.

The biggest difference is AHC in the LX, which is a huge win for towing. It supports heavy tongue weights much better than static (traditional) suspension, and will self-level the vehicle once the trailer has been attached. This improves handling, towing dynamics, weight distribution, etc.

If your primary goal for a new vehicle is towing, a 3/4 or 1-ton truck may be a better option than either 200 series. But that said, a 4000-4500lb trailer will be a joke of a task for both the LC and the LX. Beyond weight, consider the physical size of the trailer, the towing setup, weight distribution, etc. A very long trailer would not be a good match for the LC/LX due to its relatively short wheelbase, but a heavier yer shorter trailer may be just fine. Lots of variables at play.

Thank you, all good points to consider!

 

[tpatrickmc]

I agree with everything that esw says about towing with the 200 but I'm not sure if the LC has the "towing anti sway" that the LX has. I had it kick in once on the LX and it stopped the "unsteadiness" that my foolishness had caused immediately. I do know that the '14 LX is a nicer tow vehicle than the '08 LC.

Good add here, thank you as well!

 

[nakman]

Hey towmasters... curious if anyone has the answer, I'm sure it's in this thread here but after some searching I still can't find it. I'm back to square 1 with my brake controller, well maybe square 2...

So I sold my 2018 200 and now have a 2008, and am wanting to hook up the Redarc brake controller, but when I look under the dash I don't see any wire pigtail to plug into. Anyone know if that came stock in 2008? I have pulled the kick panel on the left and don't see it in there either... just curious if I'm looking in the wrong spot here, or maybe it's not there to begin with. or do I need to get another cable, and tap that into the harness somehow? Anyone else wire a Redarc brake controller to a 2008 Land Cruiser? tia...

 

[CharlieS]

I can't verify it for the '08. I've found it on a 13 and 16, and know some people have had a lot of difficulty finding it. I recall it being fairly high up on the left side behind the dash trim.

 

[GordJ]

My '08 had the plug and my P3 connected flawlessly.

 

[grinchy]

Hey towmasters... curious if anyone has the answer, I'm sure it's in this thread here but after some searching I still can't find it. I'm back to square 1 with my brake controller, well maybe square 2...

So I sold my 2018 200 and now have a 2008, and am wanting to hook up the Redarc brake controller, but when I look under the dash I don't see any wire pigtail to plug into. Anyone know if that came stock in 2008? I have pulled the kick panel on the left and don't see it in there either... just curious if I'm looking in the wrong spot here, or maybe it's not there to begin with. or do I need to get another cable, and tap that into the harness somehow? Anyone else wire a Redarc brake controller to a 2008 Land Cruiser? tia...

It's really high up on the dash (at least in a 2009 LX), just below the level of the instrument cluster, on the left side. In the LX it was attached to a group of plugs behind the mirror controls (the TLC dash is a bit different). There were four or five plugs and the brake control plug was in a fake connector on this plug header.

I think the location is similar on the TLC, but the plugs it is attached in with will be different.

 

[nakman]

ok thanks guys, will look again!

 

[coleAK]

Hey towmasters... curious if anyone has the answer, I'm sure it's in this thread here but after some searching I still can't find it. I'm back to square 1 with my brake controller, well maybe square 2...

So I sold my 2018 200 and now have a 2008, and am wanting to hook up the Redarc brake controller, but when I look under the dash I don't see any wire pigtail to plug into. Anyone know if that came stock in 2008? I have pulled the kick panel on the left and don't see it in there either... just curious if I'm looking in the wrong spot here, or maybe it's not there to begin with. or do I need to get another cable, and tap that into the harness somehow? Anyone else wire a Redarc brake controller to a 2008 Land Cruiser? tia...

It is way up there, have to take some of the switches and panels off. It is from what I remember need to take things aff up to there and it is above there.

 

[grinchy]

On the lx 2009 it is on the firewall underside of the connector group you can see with the orange/brown plug toward the seat at the top of this photo.

 

[nakman]

Ok yes, I found it! I would have never thought to look there... but just like the LX there's a white plastic deal with 3 different harnesses in it, all doing nothing. Once I removed the switch panel I was able to find it..

Now I'm kinda wondering what those other wires are for... but that's for another day, on to the next thing thanks again guys.

 

[Slow Paddler]

I would be surprised if the 200 had issues towing the larger KK. For comparison my Lance trailer is 25'8" long, 8' wide, and 10' tall (so bigger in all dimensions), has a GVWR of 6000# (and I've put it on a scale loaded down once at 6060#), and has a tongue weight of ~850# when fully loaded (and I've seen as high as about 920# which is ~25% more than what KK notes). Yes you'll give up weight distribution but I'm sure my TW is still more than the KK lists, even after I tension up the WD. Presumably your hitch for the KK will be lighter as well than my WD hitch. Now granted I've got a 2" lift with stiffer springs and airbags, vs your LX570 with AHC, but I really would expect this to tow just fine.

For those still considering a Kimberley Kruiser (@eatSleepWoof ), I found another piece of data to add to the collective. A new S3 owner with about two weeks experience so far is pulling his with a Sequoia and only Dobinson springs and air bags. Same engine, similar overall weight, towing capacity, tongue weight restrictions, etc. Just a longer wheelbase and wider track.

"Hi Steve, other than sucking gas, the Sequoia with the 5.7 does great. It has “tow/haul” mode which adjusts the shift points to higher RPM. I had no problem towing my S3 on my last trip. Solid as a rock. I have Dobinsons progressive rear springs with air bags inside the coils. That combo does well. "

[EDIT] Fat fingers. Changed "D3" to "S3"

 

[eatSleepWoof]

For those still considering a Kimberley Kruiser (@eatSleepWoof ), I found another piece of data to add to the collective. A new D3 owner with about two weeks experience so far is pulling his with a Sequoia and only Dobinson springs and air bags. Same engine, similar overall weight, towing capacity, tongue weight restrictions, etc. Just a longer wheelbase and wider track.

"Hi Steve, other than sucking gas, the Sequoia with the 5.7 does great. It has “tow/haul” mode which adjusts the shift points to higher RPM. I had no problem towing my S3 on my last trip. Solid as a rock. I have Dobinsons progressive rear springs with air bags inside the coils. That combo does well. "

View attachment 2962961

That's good to hear!

In our case we'd be wanting the T3, and my biggest concerns are the length of it relative to the (somewhat) shorter 200 series, as well as not being able to install weight-distribution hitch. The Sequoia is a bit longer, which will help with some stability. In any case, an extra data point is never a bad thing!

 

[TeCKis300]

That's good to hear!

In our case we'd be wanting the T3, and my biggest concerns are the length of it relative to the (somewhat) shorter 200 series, as well as not being able to install weight-distribution hitch. The Sequoia is a bit longer, which will help with some stability. In any case, an extra data point is never a bad thing!

Yup, I had the same thought. From an aero and towability perspective, the T3 is an easy load. As you said, without WD as a component to help dial in the setup, puts more importance on other parameters to make sure it tows well.

Commenting here for others:

1. Coupler as close to the bumper/rear axle as possible. To minimize tongue leverage against sway and porpoising, and maximize tow vehicle effective wheelbase for control. Which is really about wheelbase to rear overhang (rear axle to coupler distance) ratio. As the wheelbase to rear overhang ratio is about 2:1 - every inch optimized at the overhang, can be as effective as a 2" longer wheelbase
2. 10-15% trailer tongue weight - more can actually be better here, up to a point. Staying closer to the upper end of that will create the most stability
3. Reduce trailer weight aft of the trailer axle - For some of the same reasons as tongue weight, minimizing heavy items behind the trailer axle can create more stability. Said another way, don't ever try to offset tongue weight by placing heavy items aft of the axle. Heavy items are best loaded over the trailer axle or just ahead of it.
4. Trailer rides level - This is dynamically important as it effects weight transfer when accelerating or braking. A level posture is best. Absolutely want to avoid trailer riding nose up as during heavy braking, can impart a lifting force to the tow vehicle.
5. More pressure in tires - 3-5 PSI more in the tow vehicle can really help lateral, stability especially for those that run really tall sidewall tires.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

1. Coupler as close to the bumper/rear axle as possible. To minimize tongue leverage against sway and porpoising, and maximize tow vehicle effective wheelbase for control. Which is really about wheelbase to rear overhang (rear axle to coupler distance) ratio. As the wheelbase to rear overhang ratio is about 2:1 - every inch optimized at the overhang, can be as effective as a 2" longer wheelbase
2. 10-15% trailer tongue weight - more can actually be better here, up to a point. Staying closer to the upper end of that will create the most stability
3. Reduce trailer weight aft of the trailer axle - For some of the same reasons as tongue weight, minimizing heavy items behind the trailer axle can create more stability. Said another way, don't ever try to offset tongue weight by placing heavy items aft of the axle. Heavy items are best loaded over the trailer axle or just ahead of it.
4. Trailer rides level - This is dynamically important as it effects weight transfer when accelerating or braking. A level posture is best. Absolutely want to avoid trailer riding nose up as during heavy braking, can impart a lifting force to the tow vehicle.
5. More pressure in tires - 3-5 PSI more in the tow vehicle can really help lateral, stability especially for those that run really tall sidewall tires.

All great points. My last travel trailer suffered from very low tongue weight, being nose up and not being even remotely level. I almost lost it to a swaying incident just 10-15 minutes out of the dealership. Items 2-4 are exactly what I worked on right after getting the trailer home, and those changes made a huge difference in stability.