Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

I don’t really mind the speed, going slow doesn’t bother me, my main issue is the trans temp. Going slow I’m not holding up any traffic, most the time the traffic in front of me is slower anyhow. The trans temps just seem high. I took some temps going home the other day 100 degrees in the Valley and about 88 degrees on the mountain pass temps were not bad(picture of the temps is just passengers not towing). I just wonder how much these temps (mid. 250’s)will hurt the transmission??

The LX doesn’t really have ECT on my 2018 there is the button that says ect2nd but when it’s pushed it only goes into 2nd. I just tow in sport+ which is pretty much ect I’m sure.

I am trying to research on talk to technicians to see what is an “acceptable temp range” on the LX trans I will report back anything I find.

Dan your absolutely right all my temp gauges look great. It’s only the app that Linuxgod told me about that shows other wise.


The climb I did was 11 miles straight from the base of the canyon it’s about 4600 feet to the top it’s 7100... there is no flats or down hills on this road it’s a straight climb. We went camping at our local lake and I took an alternate route home climbing a 8% grade for 1 1/2 Miles temps never even Got pass 206... Parley’s is just killer.
View attachment 2331061

The temps in the above look normal. 250F is definitely on the hot side for a climb, IMO.

As @TeCKis300 mentions, generally speaking when going over mountain passes use S mode in lower gears to keep the fluid moving through the transmission faster. There's no A/T fluid pump, it's all driven by engine speed. I don't think 230F+ is inherently bad on a big climb, but you'll eventually want to see the temp drop once you start your descent. If you're always running hot then I believe that's where you'll run into issues. And change your A/T fluid every 60k at least (I do mine every 30k, but also >50% of my mileage is towing).

Again keeping it in a lower gear during the descent will help keep fluid moving through the transmission and will also help use the engine to brake. (Note: I've tried putting the truck in Neutral on a long straight descent and the transmission will actually heat up even though you're coasting... probably latent heat soaking into the fluid, but still... use the gears to your benefit).

 

[TeCKis300]

I wouldn't worry much about temps. The severe duty service schedule, with shorter service interval before fluid exchange recommended by the manufacturer, accounts for this. Modern fluids can take the occasional abuse without issue.

 

[coleAK]

I’ve never seen trans temps that high but I’ll admit 75 degrees is a scorching heat wave my way. I change my AT fluid every 30k per the “towing and off road” interval in the manual. Doing it in my garage takes ~1.5 hrs with the help of one of my kids. I think it’s slightly easier/less dirty than a oil change.

 

[tirewater]

Everything I've read is that *conventional* oil shouldn't exceed 270 degrees F. I assume you're using synthetic oil, so you should be fine. As was mentioned, switch to severe duty schedule for oil & transmission fluid changes - and use a good quality synthetic oil.

The good news is that Paryley's Pass is probably your worst case scenario. If you're happy with everything else on the LX, just drive slower up the hill and try to make sure the torque converter is locked up. Unlocked, the TC temperature will quickly go up.

The good news, is the coolant temperature looks great.

You can always take Guardsman's pass instead.

Parley’s is just killer.

 

[Rando Kuruza]

Ha Ha Guardsmen pass is an option I’m going to try going up Provo canyon to see how “George” does, I really do think the LX tows the airstream like a champ and if I didn’t have this gadget showing me trans temps I would never even know it was heating up. ColeAK and Linuxgod Im going to keep towing and change out all my fluids every 30k... so basically now lol.

Once I crest the mountain the transmission immediately cools back down to 195-205 and even going back up other climbs it only hits high 220’s then immediately cools... so maybe it’s ok???

I really do love this LX airstream combo and with the pro pride hitch we have towed through some pretty crazy windy situations and it’s planted, zero sway, I just feel so comfortable towing. Where I live it’s a destination for people come up my way to camp (the Uinta mountains) I see people towing ALL the time. I see trailers swaying all over the place and I’ve seen probably 8 or so flipped trailers in 3 years living this way. I have yet to have a white knuckle tow experience, I really do think the LX is a great tow vehicle.

 

[tirewater]

While I was joking about guardsmen pass (unless they've paved it , widened the road, installed guard rails, etc...). Certainly figuring out the best driving method to keep transmission temps cooler, or looking at supplemental transmission cooling may be worthwhile to the longevity of the transmission. There may be options on the australian market.

That said, you could always rent/borrow a different vehicle to see if you have any different results.

You're already ahead of the game by knowing your transmission temperatures. Although watching oil temp at the torque converter rapidly go up when slippage is occurring is never a good feeling. It does give you an idea when lockup occurs.

Ha Ha Guardsmen pass is an option I’m going to try going up Provo canyon to see how “George” does, I really do think the LX tows the airstream like a champ and if I didn’t have this gadget showing me trans temps I would never even know it was heating up. ColeAK and Linuxgod Im going to keep towing and change out all my fluids every 30k... so basically now lol.

 

[Rando Kuruza]

While I was joking about guardsmen pass (unless they've paved it , widened the road, installed guard rails, etc...). Certainly figuring out the best driving method to keep transmission temps cooler, or looking at supplemental transmission cooling may be worthwhile to the longevity of the transmission. There may be options on the australian market.

That said, you could always rent/borrow a different vehicle to see if you have any different results.

You're already ahead of the game by knowing your transmission temperatures. Although watching oil temp at the torque converter rapidly go up when slippage is occurring is never a good feeling. It does give you an idea when lockup occurs.

Lol I wouldn’t actually take up through guardsman pass making it through Park city and then deer valley area would be an adventure Lol. Then making it through big cottonwood canyon with its crazy s-curve not likely. I am going to try Provo canyon though... I think the LX is capable and I am going to keep going with it to see how it handles but so far has been great! Other than trans temps but it is only during this one particular climb. I will see how it does everywhere else I travel this summer. We have about 6 trips already planned one at 10,000 feet... I’ll keep reporting

 

[linuxgod]

Once I crest the mountain the transmission immediately cools back down to 195-205 and even going back up other climbs it only hits high 220’s then immediately cools... so maybe it’s ok???

I can't recall if you'd mentioned it but when going over that pass what gear were you in and what RPM were you at?

 

[LCHardriver_02]

I am guessing the my answer is yes, but I thought I would ask...

I am looking at a new to me 2018 LC tomorrow up in Spokane, WA tomorrow. If we proceed with the purchase I will be wanting to stop by my property and pick up our travel trailer to bring home. My question is for those who tow and have a Slee rear bumper, do I need to have a 7 pin extension cord and if so, would a 3 foot extension work, or does it need to be longer? I am thinking that I do and I will need to make one up this afternoon before we leave to drive up there from Boise.

Thanks!

 

[1carnut]

So I’ve read through pretty much all 30 pages of this thread but still aren’t sure which way to go. I’m a pretty novice tower and we have a 2020 HE that’s probably riding an extra 1” high after I added some more aggressive 285/65/18 Toyo OC AT3s.

Planning to tow a rented 20’ airstream in a couple weeks with a GBWR of 5k lbs and a tongue weight of about 700 lbs. We’re only going like 250-300 miles of mostly highway across VA over 3 days.

I’m convinced I need to add a brake controller so I’m trying decide between just having the dealer install the OEM option or going with the REDARC Tow Pro Elite recommenced on here. Also wondering how much of a drop tow hitch I need and if I should consider any sort of more complex weight distribution hitch or anything.

I don’t mind spending the money to get the good stuff but we’ll likely only tow something that heavy 1-2 times a year.

Would appreciate any advice!

 

[CharlieS]

The Redarc brake controller is the way to go. Adjustable height drop hitches give you flexibility.

 

[coleAK]

So I’ve read through pretty much all 30 pages of this thread but still aren’t sure which way to go. I’m a pretty novice tower and we have a 2020 HE that’s probably riding an extra 1” high after I added some more aggressive 285/65/18 Toyo OC AT3s.

Planning to tow a rented 20’ airstream in a couple weeks with a GBWR of 5k lbs and a tongue weight of about 700 lbs. We’re only going like 250-300 miles of mostly highway across VA over 3 days.

I’m convinced I need to add a brake controller so I’m trying decide between just having the dealer install the OEM option or going with the REDARC Tow Pro Elite recommenced on here. Also wondering how much of a drop tow hitch I need and if I should consider any sort of more complex weight distribution hitch or anything.

I don’t mind spending the money to get the good stuff but we’ll likely only tow something that heavy 1-2 times a year.

Would appreciate any advice!

Yes you need a WD hitch. It’s important to remember that WD hitches are more of a “system” than a traditional hitch. Ask the place you are renting the AS from, they may provide a hitch with the trailer. Even if they don’t there probably will be hardware on the trailer that are specific to a given hitch brand/type

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm not aware of an OEM brake controller option. Get the REDARC Tow Elite. Buy once, cry once, install once, and don't let them put holes in your nice new dash for an oddball brake controller.

Your HE with stock suspension and those upsized tires will handle that airstream fine.

I agree with coleAK. Weight distribution is not optional. The rear of the vehicle will squat tremendously without it in place. More importantly, it's absolutely necessary for stability and safe travel, even at those weights. The rental agency likely won't let you drive away without it properly setup. Fortunately, their trailers should have one already installed and it's just a matter of the correct drop bar. Your HE reciever is probably taller than most they service. You'll want to figure out that detail prior.

I rented an Airstream 23D prior to purchasing one and that was my experience. Don't forget extended mirrors, either provided by them or purchased yourself.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

I've been closely following this thread too.
My 2018 is now at the shop having a Tow Pro Elite installed along with some other stuff.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

So I’ve read through pretty much all 30 pages of this thread but still aren’t sure which way to go. I’m a pretty novice tower and we have a 2020 HE that’s probably riding an extra 1” high after I added some more aggressive 285/65/18 Toyo OC AT3s.

Planning to tow a rented 20’ airstream in a couple weeks with a GBWR of 5k lbs and a tongue weight of about 700 lbs. We’re only going like 250-300 miles of mostly highway across VA over 3 days.

I’m convinced I need to add a brake controller so I’m trying decide between just having the dealer install the OEM option or going with the REDARC Tow Pro Elite recommenced on here. Also wondering how much of a drop tow hitch I need and if I should consider any sort of more complex weight distribution hitch or anything.

I don’t mind spending the money to get the good stuff but we’ll likely only tow something that heavy 1-2 times a year.

Would appreciate any advice!

For the sake of friendly conversation and a sharing of experiences, I'm going to offer that when I towed a friends 19' Airstream for three months, I used this very simple and cheap hitch. Adjust the height to give you the proper tongue weight, and the two pin design keeps the back and forth rocking down. A 20' airstream is just not much mass, which is good for your experience level.
Amazon product ASIN B00SL2STMU

That said, I don't use a weight distribution hitch, just the hitch above and a Redarc tow pro. The event trailer with my truggy, booth, merch, and trailer is 8,000-8,700 lbs and I can run the cruiser at 80 mph better with that load behind me than without it. I can whip that thing in and out of traffic (I don't do that, I'm a very calm driver), and I have avoided multiple pile ups at high speed with heavy loads by slinging around collisions instead of piling into them.

Get a good little scale if you are not used to tongue weights like this one. That way you can balance your trailer a bit better with the adjustable height hitch I mentioned above.
Amazon product ASIN B007REK28M
I know safety is the top priority, but it can be done safely with less equipment than I think people want to admit.

Remember... just like off road gear, no amount of expensive equipment is going to compensate for real talent. And you only get real talent by practicing. I believe that if you train with average/below average equipment, you will be far better than others when you finally have top tier equipment combined with positive experience. Take your time, practicing backing up in open areas with some cones will do wonders when you have to turn around in heavy traffic. Oh, and when you are looking to refuel, as you are driving up to the pumps, scan the layout and cars around them to give yourself a plan of getting in, and out.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

Before you know it, you'll be a pro.

 

[TeCKis300]

With all due respect, recommending someone new to towing, to not use proper equipment is ill advised. WD hitches are not crutches. They physically expand the envelope of stable operation against variables that are sometime outside of ones control including grade, wind, speed, poor loading, brake bias, etc. Without experience managing those other variables, it's especially important to use a WD hitch.

Travel trailers are different than towing car trailers. They have larger slab sides that can and will catch wind, lending to dynamic sway in the wrong situations. I'm on the Airstream forums often, and even HD trucks towing what are considered relatively small loads, experience sway.

I was reminded of this thread today when this popped up in my feed. Here's a smaller Airstream Bambi. Towed by a Suburban. Unexpected stuff can happen.

 

[tirewater]

If you have stock suspension, then definitely use a weight distribution hitch. 700 lbs tongue weight is not a trivial amount and it would be good to transfer some of that weight to the front.

I used a Blue Ox WD when towing 19' Airstream for 2000+ miles. Sure it's a hassle, and heavy to install, but it really leveled out the LC.

Ask the owners of the airstream, they may have one already that you can use.

Planning to tow a rented 20’ airstream in a couple weeks with a GBWR of 5k lbs and a tongue weight of about 700 lbs. We’re only going like 250-300 miles of mostly highway across VA over 3 days.

 

[Rando Kuruza]

I can't recall if you'd mentioned it but when going over that pass what gear were you in and what RPM were you at?

Going up the pass I am in 4th, 3rd and if needed sometimes 2nd...

I have never towed without weight distribution but I would not recommend without it... I have seen to many flipped trailers where I live. Set up is key, we have short wheel base vehicles I wouldn’t skimp on equipment not for a second. No matter how many years of towing under my belt and how talented I am, doesn’t matter. In example give the most talented most experience towing driver a land cruiser and a 34’ trailer there isn’t anything he can do... wrong equipment for the wrong trailer. Period!

in the case of the smaller airstream the land cruiser can do it but I would use a brake controller and a good weight distribution hitch and don’t load to much stuff rear off the axles as it will cause sway.

 

[linuxgod]

I am guessing the my answer is yes, but I thought I would ask...

I am looking at a new to me 2018 LC tomorrow up in Spokane, WA tomorrow. If we proceed with the purchase I will be wanting to stop by my property and pick up our travel trailer to bring home. My question is for those who tow and have a Slee rear bumper, do I need to have a 7 pin extension cord and if so, would a 3 foot extension work, or does it need to be longer? I am thinking that I do and I will need to make one up this afternoon before we leave to drive up there from Boise.

Thanks!

It depends on the trailer. On my 2004 Surveyor the wiring was not long enough and I needed a 2' extension. On my 2015 Lance it reaches fine.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

@linuxgod I am making one up just in case. I need to do some work on the new 200 before I can tow with it anyways. I was hoping to grab my trailer and bring it home on my way back from Spokane, but there ended up being too much to wire up before I can tow.