I would think it would be transferring more weight than that. The equalizer hitch is the friction type bar, correct? If there is adjustment, I would bring it up more (like adding an additional chain link on my blue ox or any other chain style bars.)
Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (4 Viewers)
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I would think it would be transferring more weight than that. The equalizer hitch is the friction type bar, correct? If there is adjustment, I would bring it up more (like adding an additional chain link on my blue ox or any other chain style bars.)
You're sitting pretty.
Generally, the goal of WD is to restore ~50% of the front axle load rating (FALR).
Meaning the load restoration to the front axle will be 50% between no trailer (3400lbs), and hitched but without WD bars (guestimating ~3000lbs, based on 800lbs tongue weight and 2:1 wheelbase to overhang ratio). So hitched with WD bars attached at 3240lbs is just right.
The front axle will always decrease in weight with a load on the hitch ball. It acts as a teeter totter about the rear axle. Weight on the ball, reduces weight at the front axle. WD bars restore that to some degree.
Some people may run more FALR and it may feel better. But it's ill advised IMO. The point of a hitch is to articulate. Too much WD tension to restore FALR is basically building a stiff bridge between the tow vehicle and trailer. When it does need to articulate when entering driveways or ramps, will cause HUGE torsion loads on both the trailer and tow vehicle hitch/frame. It's a balance between sway resistance and articulation.
Several things you can do to improve sway resistance:
1) LT tires and more inflation pressure in tow vehicle tires to increase sidewall stability. It's also why I prefer to keep the 20" wheels for lateral stability under tow.
2) For the Equilizer, if you feel like you need more sway resistance, you can tighten down bolts that secure the WD bars at the head. Minimum is 60 ft-lbs torque. Factory is usually set to 100 ft-lbs.
3) Keep enough tongue weight in the trailer. Minimize weight behind the rear axle of the trailer.
4) By far the most important parameter is to keep the ball as close and tight to the rear bumper as possible. You've heard a good tow vehicle is one that has long wheelbase. The truth is that it's long wheelbase to short rear overhang ratio. Rear overhang defined by the centerline of the rear axle to ball distance. That one can control to a degree with the right drop shank. Which means avoid drop shanks with long horizontal projections. Remember teeter totter? A longer projection gives the trailer more influence to sway, porpoise, and reduce front axle weight and overall control.
I modified mine to bring it in as close and tight as possible, cutting off about 3" off the shank and drilling a new 5/8" for the hitch pin.
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I am concerned about the rear axle weight. The max weight for the rear axle is 4300 lbs. At 4360 lbs, I'm in excess.
The front axle is now lighter by 160 lbs, maybe not a huge deal - but how will a lighter weight on the front axle impact braking ability with the addition of the trailer weight (even with the brakes on the trailers)?
The front axle is now lighter by 160 lbs, maybe not a huge deal - but how will a lighter weight on the front axle impact braking ability with the addition of the trailer weight (even with the brakes on the trailers)?
@Kansas Scott , I may have missed it, but what's your mods and towing setup?
4360 for all intents and purposes is within the measurement tolerances to say you are at capacity. One could reason that each wheelset/tire on that axle is 75lbs, totaling 150lbs that is not really "on the axle".
Tightening WD will shift more weight to the front axle and trailer axles if that makes you more comfortable. Even better is to optimize that ball distance if yours is not optimal? That said, the rear axle still has to deal with the much larger dynamic loads under tow. It's a Land Cruiser - its margins for overloads with significant durability is what it's built for and I wouldn't sweat it.
Lighter weight at the front axle is not really a concern and will not effect braking. Weight will shift forward upon braking making sure that axle's traction is well utilized.
If anything, it's commonly described that too much FALR risks jackknifing in an accident avoidance or low traction situation, as the front axle may have too much bite relative to the rear. That's not to scare you from dialing incrementally more WD tension, just don't go crazy with it.
4360 for all intents and purposes is within the measurement tolerances to say you are at capacity. One could reason that each wheelset/tire on that axle is 75lbs, totaling 150lbs that is not really "on the axle".
Tightening WD will shift more weight to the front axle and trailer axles if that makes you more comfortable. Even better is to optimize that ball distance if yours is not optimal? That said, the rear axle still has to deal with the much larger dynamic loads under tow. It's a Land Cruiser - its margins for overloads with significant durability is what it's built for and I wouldn't sweat it.
Lighter weight at the front axle is not really a concern and will not effect braking. Weight will shift forward upon braking making sure that axle's traction is well utilized.
If anything, it's commonly described that too much FALR risks jackknifing in an accident avoidance or low traction situation, as the front axle may have too much bite relative to the rear. That's not to scare you from dialing incrementally more WD tension, just don't go crazy with it.
Hi everyone I have read this thread multiple times... while I do tow my utility trailer and have towed loads up to 6,000 lbs. I am not sure what my 2018 Lx570 with 275/60r20’s ko2’s can truly handle. What is the opinion on this forum between the 2 trailers I have narrowed down to. The Rockwood 2509s my preferred! But I think it maybe to heavy overall. The 2508bh I feel is within spec but I like the slide out of the 2509s. Can you guys chime in on your thoughts on the 2509s? Is it to much for my LX?? My vehicle will have my wife and I and 3 small kids... 600 lbs between all of us
My black rock 22BHS is very similar to size and specs of the bottom one. And also has: Bunks, slide out, Murphy bed/sofa. I’ve pulled it all over AK for going on 6 summers with my ‘13 LX on the same tires. When I’ve had it on the scales loaded I’m at 65-6800 and ~650 on the hitch. We were also on the fence about slider vs no slider to save weight. With 2 kids (teens now) so 4 of us, The slide out makes spending time in the camper under bad weather much more pleasant.
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If I recall you tow trying to keep it at lower speeds, we have some pretty wide open spaces in the west do you thinking going 65mph would be pushing it for this set up?
I mainly keep it at lower speeds 55-60 to preserve mpg, and the fact most places I travel are 2 lane roads and very few straight stretches. And it does fine at 65 mph, when I go north from Anchorage I run it at ~65 for the 50 miles of 4 lane to Wasilla. Also I have long distances between fuel stations and there are places where 9-10 mpg vs 8 mpg is the difference between carrying extra gas in cans and not. Between the 2 campers you posted mpg will be the same. It’s not weight as much as the wall you are dragging through the wind behind you.
Objectively, the LX can handle either. What you are comfortable towing however, completely comes down to your expectations.
Here's my tow report, towing a 28' airstream (measured ball to bumper), which is almost the same length as what you're proposing, with heavier weights (tongue >1000lbs, and ~6800 - 7200k lbs laden)
LX570 Tow Report
Got some miles under my belt now towing my current setup: '09 LX570 with '07 Airstream 27FB International Ocean Breeze. Wanted to give a report for others attempting to tow things in the same weight/length range. LX570 mods: 33" AT Load Range E tires (Falken Wildpeak AT3W 305/55/20), 1"...
forum.ih8mud.com
Again, the LX will handle it. But there's pretty critical setup (for any tow vehicle) that will make or break the experience.
Setup notes:
1) Weight distribution (probably want 800-1k bars). Make sure you have enough WD tension dialed in. This is critical as many new to towing won't have enough tension dialed in. Along with a level trailer.
2) Load Rand E tires (which you already have). ~5-10psi greater inflation pressure when towing will help increase towing stability
3) Ball should be as close and tight to the rear bumper as possible (to maximize wheelbase, aka wheelbase to rear overhang ratio). Don't use a drop hitch that projects the ball way out from the bumper. This is the worse thing one can do in regards to all handling and porposing qualities.
5) Don't be afraid of tongue weight. More generally is more stable within reason. Very heavy things should be loaded over the trailer axles. Avoid loading too much weight behind the trailer axles.
Speed is the biggest factor to the onset of trailer sway. Every step to mitigate sway or increase sway resistance, buys one additional margin of stability towards higher speeds. Which is why sway accidents often happen when passing.
That said, I've been to 75+ mph on occasion. She's stable. Every setup or rig will have a different threshold. With external factors also contributing (e.g. passing cars, winds, downhill, etc.)
Interestingly enough, AHC helps here. As it lowers about 1" at 62mph, this effectively also increase weight distribution tension. Exactly how one wants it at higher speeds to increase stability.
As @coleAK mentions, oftentimes towing speed is about maximizing gas efficiency, or mitigating gas inefficiency. I tow between 60-70mph depending. I usually find myself driving faster on shorter trips and slower on longer trips.
Gas range is probably one of the biggest variables to manage in travels.
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My Lance is similar to the 2509S you show, though it's lighter. TW is about 770# with propane and battery, trailer is 5200# on the axle (so just a few pounds under 6000# which is GWVR for me). Nearly the same length, same height. Even on 34s which reduce the perceived torque and a 2" lift it still tows quite well. I did need an extended drop shank for the hitch head though. Get a good WD hitch (BlueOx or Equalizer or similar) with 1000# bars and I think you'll be very happy with it.
Granted I'm 1000# lighter than your GWVR would be, but I think you'll tow just fine, though mountain passes like Vail pass may be a bit of a slog.
Granted I'm 1000# lighter than your GWVR would be, but I think you'll tow just fine, though mountain passes like Vail pass may be a bit of a slog.
Cool thanks guys that makes me feel better as I would really like the slide out. I’ve read a lot about pro-pride hitches and I think I would give that a whirl... when I get one I will get it dialed in probably hit a weigh station and let you guys know how it goes. We have been looking way to long and need to pull the trigger soon. TeCKis300 we really like to get a 27FB airstream one day but right now we have landscaping, basements and garages to build lol. Once the kiddos get bigger we will upgrade to the 27fb international signature. Linuxgod and ColeAk thanks for all your input this thread has been super helpful in shopping for a trailer.
I have a 27fb and it tows very well behind the cruiser. I have a 2in OME lift that helps a lot with the tongue weight. The blue ox hitch levels it out and restores the balance between axles just fine. Your LX, obviously, has the AHC so that will compensate for the added weight. I've crossed 70mph without any say or issues. If I stay 65 or less, I can get 12mph on flat east coast territory and 8.5 in the hills. Best of luck with your purchase.
Thanks man!
I have a 25’ about 6,000 loaded that’s made two trips to Alaska and back with no issues at all. My opinion is get the slide out, it is not an option for us. Less than a minute to extend/retract and it changes from a trailer to a cottage (damn near).
The only downside is the possibility of dust ingress on really, really dusty conditions.
The only downside is the possibility of dust ingress on really, really dusty conditions.
That’s what we really want I just wanted to see what other 200 owners are experience towing with something like this. most are towing a lighter package, which had me worried about this ones weight?? But it sounds like it’s fine... I know a lot of guys towing airstreams are towing heavier and longer, but the airstream has that “pill” shape. Whereas this one has the giant flat wall shape. But I’m feeling pretty good about the slide option.
on a 2016 is it best to tow in just power ect ? or manual shift ? I have a 18 ft travel trailer about 3200 lbs 350 lbs hitch weight
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- #438
Tow with Power ECT on and use manual. Leave it in 4th on the 6 speed or 6th on the 8 speed.
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I have 3 kids and a big dog and the slide is totally worth it. We used to have a camper without a side slide and passing each other was a PITA on days when it was pouring rain and we were inside. The sliding dinette was one of the 3 things I decided I had to have in our newer camper (the other 2 were a walk around queen bed and triple bunks for the 3 kids).
I've never had issues with dust with a slide, but make sure the seals are tight and be sure to brush any debris off the top before closing it. My old slide use to leak slightly until we replaced all the weathestripping. The new one has been great.
I'll ditto what Geoff said. I have a 2016 - ECT Pwr and S6. (This is also what the manual recommends.). The manual also says not ot use cruiser control though I have cheated on this a couple of times on straight, open, flat freeway sections here in the west. There are various discussions on this forum about using S mode if you are not familiar with it. And about using it to engage engine compression when going down a significant decline.
I'm another fan of the slideout. It is only my wife and I in a trailer similer in size to Geoff's. But because we may live in it for 3-4 weeks we find having the additional space a huge benefit. If there weather (or bugs) and bad we essentially live in that dinette.
I have the ProPride if you have any questions though I have a different trailer so the install would be different and I expect you will find more info on the Airstream forum. (And the owner of ProPride is legendary with his 24/7 customer support!).
I'm another fan of the slideout. It is only my wife and I in a trailer similer in size to Geoff's. But because we may live in it for 3-4 weeks we find having the additional space a huge benefit. If there weather (or bugs) and bad we essentially live in that dinette.
I have the ProPride if you have any questions though I have a different trailer so the install would be different and I expect you will find more info on the Airstream forum. (And the owner of ProPride is legendary with his 24/7 customer support!).
