- Thread starter
- #1,161
up. There's no way to run them pointed down without destroying the line
Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (9 Viewers)
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thanks. I just saw this the other night: Builds - I bought a Whale, now I gotta build it and use it - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/i-bought-a-whale-now-i-gotta-build-it-and-use-it.1257026/page-15#post-14304337
@wngrog did you run your firestone line downwards?
Yea you take a hole saw to the bottom hole and enlarge it a bunch.
- Thread starter
- #1,164
What’s the advantage? I know I’ve heard people claim you can end up with moisture in the bag that won’t go away, but inverted you just end up with water in the line
They were designed to have the hole at the bottom. The advantage? No idea but I’ve been running airbags for 15 years and with the enlarged hole with no issues
FJRanger
SILVER Star
This is what I did with our 80 and would do with the 200 if we decide to run the firestones.
It’s a $130 modification. Don’t overthink it.
- Thread starter
- #1,169
I probably inflate/deflate mine a dozen times per summer, maybe more, and afaik there’s no water in mine. I replaced my originals after 2 years when I added the lift and they were dry
I can imagine if you have one of the auto inflation controllers which keeps them topped up *and* you had a very slight leak, so that they were getting more air added once or twice a day that you might eventually end up with water from continuously adding humid air.
But it seems like a problem one single person had.
Mud is chock full of such happenings that make overthinkers spin out into space
got it. it's my first time looking at airbags. i didn't want to do the job twice. overthinking or not, it's just the smarter play to ask the experienced folks. seeing one person flipping their bag upside down, threw me into space
I had mine installed about 150,000 miles ago. One of them had a line installed that was routed a little too short. I replaced it with a new bag and there was no hint of moisture and I live in South western BC, just north of Seattle. If there was to be condensation I would think that this would be a prime location and I have never heard of anyone having the “moist bag” issue. And I also found out that if your line pulls off the fitting it is possible that you can just plug it back together, at least sometimes.
T
This is exactly what I did with my 100. I didn’t cut all the jounce stop off, I’m 5,000 miles into it and it’s working fine.
I’ve used many different kinds. The clip on/screw on ones eventually brake or fall off. I always go back to this style. Carry an extra set in the camper and replace as needed. They are not the best but functionally do the job.
CIPA 11950 Clip-On Towing Mirror Black & Silver, 15.75 Inch Amazon product ASIN B00029WRKA
I'm looking into getting a 25 travel trailer that has a Unit Base Weight (with LP and Batteries) of 5,600 LBS and Maximum Trailer Capacity (GVWR) (lbs.) of 7,300. From what I've seen online the 200 series has 8,500 -8,600 max trailer weight capacity. I've been reading through this thread and wonder if/how towing capacity changes when the land cruiser has been modified with front and rear bumpers and steel side steps.
Also since i'm totally new at towing, what numbers do you go with when determining what you can tow. Do you go off the Unit base weight or the GVWR of the trailer?
I would like to tow with the land cruiser but don't want to invest in helper airbags, trailer brake controller, and trailer mirrors if this is too much weight for the cruiser.
Also since i'm totally new at towing, what numbers do you go with when determining what you can tow. Do you go off the Unit base weight or the GVWR of the trailer?
I would like to tow with the land cruiser but don't want to invest in helper airbags, trailer brake controller, and trailer mirrors if this is too much weight for the cruiser.
Look at GVWR when determining what you can tow. My camper is about the same size/weight as the one you mention here.
A trailer brake controller and WD hitch is a must have. You can not safely tow a camper without these 2 items. Tow mirrors I would consider optional based on how much visibility you want. I wouldn’t tow with out them but last summer I went for one month with only using one on the passenger side. If you get a narrower camper (inside the wheel wells) like an rPod probably wouldn’t need them as much.
So thats where I'm confused, the Gross vehicle weight rating of the Land Cruiser is 7,275 lbs. But the max towing weight is 8,500.
So when i'm looking to tow a trailer do I look at the GVWR of the trailer i'm looking to tow or the Unit Base Weight (with LP and Batteries) of 5,600 LBS of the trailer i'm looking to tow?
A trailer's "base" weight is typically just the unit itself; that is, without propane, batteries, water, all your gear. That's a good starting point, but is not representative of the weight you will actually tow in the real world.
The trailer's GVWR is the maximum weight the trailer can safely be loaded to. It's typically the maximum weight capacity of the axles on the trailer. GVWR minus the base weight is the amount of "room" you have to load it up. For example a trailer with 8000lbs GVWR may have a 6500lb base weight, giving you 1500lb of payload capacity. What you will actually tow will vary somewhere between 6500lb and 8000lb, so you generally want to look at the trailer's GVWR to get an idea of the maximum weight you'd be towing.
Just google gvcwr which is the Gross Vehicle Combined Weight Rating. This is the manufacturers towing rating. GVWR is the rating for the vehicle itself. I think. Lol.
