Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (11 Viewers)

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Mine will literally jerk the entire truck if I dont slow down with the utmost of care of basically bottom out the gain when i am at lower speed.
Mine will do that if I turn up the gain too high. I once had the gain at 10 by accident (I must have "kneed" it or something) and I forgot to check pulling out of a campground. The trailer locked brakes as soon as I applied the brake in the LC. Lucky I was going like 3 mph and on a gravel road. Talk about a "jerk". I now never forget to check that little button before we leave and every now and then while driving. In my location on the dash down by the rear mirror control switch it's easy to bump. Maybe I should move it.
 
Mine will do that if I turn up the gain too high. I once had the gain at 10 by accident (I must have "kneed" it or something) and I forgot to check pulling out of a campground. The trailer locked brakes as soon as I applied the brake in the LC. Lucky I was going like 3 mph and on a gravel road. Talk about a "jerk". I now never forget to check that little button before we leave and every now and then while driving. In my location on the dash down by the rear mirror control switch it's easy to bump. Maybe I should move it.

My Tekonsha Prodigy P3 controller works really linearly and smooth. For others, don't get caught up in the specific brake gain. Every tow vehicle / controller / trailer is going to be different and there is no right or magic gain number. For example, my dual axle Airstream wants 12.1 gain on my Tekonsha. No lockup or push.

Yes, you never want so much gain that the trailer brakes will lockup. Another cross check is that the braking effort should feel about what it does when not towing. The trailer brakes stop the trailer. Car brakes stop the car. Over bias in either direction can be dangerous as it can easily overheat the brakes on that axle working harder. It's also dangerous for the tow vehicle to do more work as that means the trailer is always pushing on the vehicle - a recipe for excess trailer momentum to translate into sway.
 
Hey guys, picked up a new camper and even tho it's 4500 dry the tongue weight is more than I'm used to in this truck.

I'd like to gauge the tongue weight so I can redistribute weight over the axles if necessary.

Does anyone have a tongue weight scale they like?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hey guys, picked up a new camper and even tho it's 4500 dry the tongue weight is more than I'm used to in this truck.

I'd like to gauge the tongue weight so I can redistribute weight over the axles if necessary.

Does anyone have a tongue weight scale they like?

Thanks in advance!

Can't recommend a specific scale, but tongue weight is a good thing - it helps with trailer stability. Luckily you have a vehicle that can handle a lot of it!

Some airbags might be a convenient way of levelling it out. But in any case, a weight distribution hitch will be good to have - drive to a scale, weigh the axles, and adjust the WD hitch until the vehicle axle weights are reasonably close to each other. Beyond that, the actual tongue weight won't matter much.
 
Yes, enough tongue weight is key for directional stability/sway prevention. In fact to little is dangerous and can get to sway pretty much immediately.

Typically guidance is tongue weight = 10% of total trailer weight.

On an LX AHC will handle to prevent sag

On on LC WDH or Airbags installed inside the rear coil springs (what I do for our 7000 lbs travel trailer) or both.
 
Hey guys, picked up a new camper and even tho it's 4500 dry the tongue weight is more than I'm used to in this truck.

I'd like to gauge the tongue weight so I can redistribute weight over the axles if necessary.

Does anyone have a tongue weight scale they like?

Thanks in advance!
This is what I use.
 
Hey guys, picked up a new camper and even tho it's 4500 dry the tongue weight is more than I'm used to in this truck.

I'd like to gauge the tongue weight so I can redistribute weight over the axles if necessary.

Does anyone have a tongue weight scale they like?

Thanks in advance!

Theres a way to do it with some 2x4’s and a bathroom scale if you don’t wanna spend money. Check YouTube.

But regardless, for a 4500 lb dry trailer, your gunna want a WDH
 
Can't recommend a specific scale, but tongue weight is a good thing - it helps with trailer stability. Luckily you have a vehicle that can handle a lot of it!

Some airbags might be a convenient way of levelling it out. But in any case, a weight distribution hitch will be good to have - drive to a scale, weigh the axles, and adjust the WD hitch until the vehicle axle weights are reasonably close to each other. Beyond that, the actual tongue weight won't matter much.
Yes, enough tongue weight is key for directional stability/sway prevention. In fact to little is dangerous and can get to sway pretty much immediately.

Typically guidance is tongue weight = 10% of total trailer weight.

On an LX AHC will handle to prevent sag

On on LC WDH or Airbags installed inside the rear coil springs (what I do for our 7000 lbs travel trailer) or both.
Theres a way to do it with some 2x4’s and a bathroom scale if you don’t wanna spend money. Check YouTube.

But regardless, for a 4500 lb dry trailer, your gunna want a WDH

Thanks guys. I already have airbags and a WDH.

This camper has very little storage in the back, unlike my last one, and I have drawers in the truck and dual batteries on the camper. Just want to make sure I'm distributing weight well and would like a tongue weight scale.
 
Thanks guys. I already have airbags and a WDH.

This camper has very little storage in the back, unlike my last one, and I have drawers in the truck and dual batteries on the camper. Just want to make sure I'm distributing weight well and would like a tongue weight scale.
I am going to say that the LC\LX is really not a tow monster, made for towing trailers. Although many do it, the wheelbase on the LC is short, which does not lend a hand to the dynamics of towing. I suggest, a sway control\weight distrubution hitch setup, which would be availiable at a RV store. Like this one or similar.......with SWAY control being key.


you are wanting to weight the tongue for the purposes of determining if you need a helper like a hitch as noted above. I am saying that you do need such a thing. But to be sure, weighing the tongue is a good thing, but IMO, does not lend to the need for a sway control with the LC.


in conclusion, you need a swat and weight handling helper for the LC with your 4500lbs dry trailer.......and anyone who does not agree, has not encountered high winds while trailering with an RV with a short wheelbase vehicle, and is on the path to fishtailing and crashing......period.
 
Thanks guys. I already have airbags and a WDH.

This camper has very little storage in the back, unlike my last one, and I have drawers in the truck and dual batteries on the camper. Just want to make sure I'm distributing weight well and would like a tongue weight scale.

  • Weigh the tow vehicle with the trailer attached: Drive onto the CAT scale with the trailer connected, but ensure the trailer axles are not on the scale platform.
  • Weigh the tow vehicle alone and subtract it's weight.
This is pretty accurate as police can use this to find vehicles over GVM (with tongue weight being a factor). I've never heard of it in the US, but they could if they wanted to.
 
Wow, that TowPilot scale breaks all the laws of RVing! Simple, packable and cheap? That’s blasphemy! It would pay for itself in no time if you were a “weigh your rig” kind of guy. The convenience of not going to commercial scales and trying to calculate tongue weight, hitching and unhitching with the same stuff in the truck breaks all the rules of RVing.
Although I do disagree with freedom guy about the towing details I am glad that I read the post and I applaud him for actually answering the OP.
 
Well, interesting comments IMO due to local habits.

I have been towing a 7000 lbs 22 ft body travel trailer (total length about 28ft) using airbag man airbags at 30 psi for sag and a regular short tow ball. No WDH making hook up and manouvering at camp grounds and home very easy. I have zero issues with sway even when 18 wheelers come by at 85 mph and i am doing 65 to 70 or slower when entering the highway (ie at large speed difference). This includes in West Texas under high wind conditions.

In Australia and in Europe WDH are hardly used and certainly in Oss caravans of significant weight behind the 200 series.

Regarding 200 series capability, the tow point to rear axle in combination with the wheel base drives directional stability. This ratio is what counts. Also its weight at 5800 lbs is same or slightly more than latest gen F150’s, another key enabler. Clearly 1/2 ton and certainly 3/4 ton trucks will do as good as or better yet as an SUV the 200 series is an excellent tow vehicle.

Picture of the 200 with airbags at 30psi. Nice and level and tows awesome without WDH.

IMG_0488.jpeg


IMG_0487.webp
 
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Theres a way to do it with some 2x4’s and a bathroom scale if you don’t wanna spend money. Check YouTube.

But regardless, for a 4500 lb dry trailer, your gunna want a WDH
I use the scale made by Sherline.
REF: Sherline Trailer Tongue Weight Scale - Sherline Products - https://www.sherline.com/product/sherline-trailer-tongue-weight-scale/#description

My reading was just over 600lbs on my 5400lb trailer.
I'm running Firestone 4164 airbags at 10-12 psi with a Blue Ox WD hitch.
Photos of the LC and trailer are shown with those parameters: 600 lbs & 10 psi.
LC runs level and steady.
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20250304_113612s_6in_longside.webp
 
I use the scale made by Sherline.
REF: Sherline Trailer Tongue Weight Scale - Sherline Products - https://www.sherline.com/product/sherline-trailer-tongue-weight-scale/#description

My reading was just over 600lbs on my 5400lb trailer.
I'm running Firestone 4164 airbags at 10-12 psi with a Blue Ox WD hitch.
Photos of the LC and trailer are shown with those parameters: 600 lbs & 10 psi.
LC runs level and steady.
View attachment 3861286
View attachment 3861311
View attachment 3861312
I see you have the same tow mirrors as I have. Easy to put on and decent view to the back. I like them a lot!
 
I see you have the same tow mirrors as I have. Easy to put on and decent view to the back. I like them a lot!
Hey I noticed that too! I like them a lot as well.

But I worried that the holding clamps might possibly vibrate loose.
So I made a bracket-hook that hooks under the rear view mirror and is secured with 2 sizes of zip ties for a fool-proof securing of the mirror.
The hook is made from metal strapping & cushioned with gasket material that I had laying around.
When I'm done towing I just snip the narrower zip tie.
The mirror cannot come loose.

Capture2.webp
 
Well, interesting comments IMO due to local habits.

I have been towing a 7000 lbs 22 ft body travel trailer (total length about 28ft) using airbag man airbags at 30 psi for sag and a regular short tow ball. No WDH making hook up and manouvering at camp grounds and home very easy. I have zero issues with sway even when 18 wheelers come by at 85 mph and i am doing 65 to 70 or slower when entering the highway (ie at large speed difference). This includes in West Texas under high wind conditions.

In Australia and in Europe WDH are hardly used and certainly in Oss caravans of significant weight behind the 200 series.

Regarding 200 series capability, the tow point to rear axle in combination with the wheel base drives directional stability. This ratio is what counts. Also its weight at 5800 lbs is same or slightly more than latest gen F150’s, another key enabler. Clearly 1/2 ton and certainly 3/4 ton trucks will do as good as or better yet as an SUV the 200 series is an excellent tow vehicle.

Picture of the 200 with airbags at 30psi. Nice and level and tows awesome without WDH.

View attachment 3861260

View attachment 3861339


Im going to ignore you and your anecdotes and follow Toyota's requirement for a WDH on trailers over 5000 lb GVW
 
Well, interesting comments IMO due to local habits.

I have been towing a 7000 lbs 22 ft body travel trailer (total length about 28ft) using airbag man airbags at 30 psi for sag and a regular short tow ball. No WDH making hook up and manouvering at camp grounds and home very easy. I have zero issues with sway even when 18 wheelers come by at 85 mph and i am doing 65 to 70 or slower when entering the highway (ie at large speed difference). This includes in West Texas under high wind conditions.

In Australia and in Europe WDH are hardly used and certainly in Oss caravans of significant weight behind the 200 series.

Regarding 200 series capability, the tow point to rear axle in combination with the wheel base drives directional stability. This ratio is what counts. Also its weight at 5800 lbs is same or slightly more than latest gen F150’s, another key enabler. Clearly 1/2 ton and certainly 3/4 ton trucks will do as good as or better yet as an SUV the 200 series is an excellent tow vehicle.

Picture of the 200 with airbags at 30psi. Nice and level and tows awesome without WDH.

View attachment 3861260

View attachment 3861339

You can certainly get away without using a WDH, just as you can get away without using countless other safety-enhancing features. But in an emergency situation, you'll want the odds stacked in your favour.

Europe and Australia are not directly comparable to North America. They have much lower speed limits (especially when towing) and they have trailers that are frequently designed differently (for example, axles shifted further forward to lower tongue weight, utilizing surge brakes, etc.).

For what it's worth, my Andersen WDH hitch does not affect maneuvering in any way whatsoever.
 
You can certainly get away without using a WDH, just as you can get away without using countless other safety-enhancing features. But in an emergency situation, you'll want the odds stacked in your favour.

Europe and Australia are not directly comparable to North America. They have much lower speed limits (especially when towing) and they have trailers that are frequently designed differently (for example, axles shifted further forward to lower tongue weight, utilizing surge brakes, etc.).

For what it's worth, my Andersen WDH hitch does not affect maneuvering in any way whatsoever.

This. Seatbelts and ABS are not necessary either. Until they are.
 

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