Towing 86 Land Cruiser FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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Nov 24, 2019
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Location
Truth or Consequences, NM
In the process of restoring a 86 Land Cruiser that has been setting up for a while. I want to tow it 800 miles from Texas to New Mexico bummer. I have read some threads and a lots of opinions don't want to screw up anything just got it right. Don't have access to a flat bed but can get a tow bar or dolly. Can any body that have done this help. Toyota says it can only be done on a flat bed trailer any help would be helpful. I want to do some 4 wheeling.
 
I have used tow dollies twice to tow a 60 series. First time was towing a FJ62 with a FJ60 about 300 miles. I do not recommend this. Second time was towing a FJ62 with a FZJ80. I do not recommend this.
 
can't speak about tow dollies, but have flat towed numerous 'yotas. always dropped the rear driveshaft (at the diff). hung it outta the way solidly, n made sure front locking hubs were in the free position. let's hit the road!
one thing regarding tow bars, i've found that keeping the bar as close to parallel to the ground as possible resulted in the towed vehicle following much easier.
when you said "toyota says", stealership or your owners manual?
 
I've used a tow dolly for my '84 and '86 FJ60s and my '89 FJ62 on many occasions. I just put the transmission in neutral and go with that. I've towed with my '01 Silverado 2500HD regular cab long bed with the 8.1L gas engine and my '09 Silverado 2500HD crew cab long bed with the Duramax diesel. The '09 does much better due to the extra HP and torque and the longer wheelbase. Even though the '01 has plenty of guts to do it, I doubt I'd use it to flat tow a 60-Series when I have the '09.
 
It's really all about the vehicle doing the towing.

Best option: buy or borrow a car hauler. This is heavy. You need a capable vehicle to tow a 60 series on a hauler.

2nd best option: Dolly it home. Remove or disconnect the rear drive shaft. Lighter haul and if you're a mad scientist like @Godwin , you won't learn not to do this after the first time you try it.

Worst option: flat tow it. This really sucks. Maybe tolerable for 10 miles in a pinch and not over 40mph. Even at that speed it is nerve racking.

Edit:

Actually, the best option is to drive it the 800 miles. Figure out a way to do that.
 
last option. rent a unhaul truck with the car hauler trailer. Tell them you are hauling a prius. it will cost you but you'll be doing it correctly.
 
can't speak about tow dollies, but have flat towed numerous 'yotas. always dropped the rear driveshaft (at the diff). hung it outta the way solidly, n made sure front locking hubs were in the free position. let's hit the road!
one thing regarding tow bars, i've found that keeping the bar as close to parallel to the ground as possible resulted in the towed vehicle following much easier.
when you said "toyota says", stealership or your owners manual?
 
I have called a couple of dealerships they said flatbed only but I don't think that is right. I have read threads that people have done this but not exactly sure of the procedure. I have put about 300 hrs. in restoring this so far don't want to mess it up now.
 
Thanks for the replies I have a Dodge diesel which I pull a 10000 lbs trailer all the time so the pulling vehicle no problem. I think maybe the dolly is my best option thanks again.
 
2nd best option: Dolly it home. Remove or disconnect the rear drive shaft. Lighter haul and if you're a mad scientist like @Godwin , you won't learn not to do this after the first time you try it.

:lol: :lol: There was a time when U-haul did not seem to care what you put on a dolly. My first experience was driving 300 miles to pick up a wrecked FJ62 located in NW Mississippi. Rolled into Corinth, MS with the FJ60, grabbed a tow dolly at the U-haul center then proceeded on to Lamar, MS. Loaded the rear of FJ62 on the dolly, I don't recall why we loaded it rear first, and I set off slowly. Hit about 30 mph and the front of the 62 began to sway badly because the steering was not locked down. I almost lost it. Pulled into a gas station and swapped the 62 around on the dolly. Drove about 30 miles back into Corinth stopping for a late lunch.

When I stopped for food I noticed the driver side rear wheel was smoking, a lot. I went into the fast food joint, grabbed a tall cup of water and went back out to cool the wheel. Ate. Then swapped the 62 end-to-end on the tow dolly making sure that this time the steering was locked down.

I completed the trip without incident but it was draining. Although the 62s's steering was locked down there was enough play to allow a slight back and forth motion. It was a slow trip, a 2F pulling twice the normal weight, constantly on alert to maintain plenty of braking space in traffic.
 
If it were me, I'd put it on a trailer or a flatbed truck. I'd either hire someone to move it or buy / borrow / rent / steal a car hauler.
 
When my son and I picked up my 85 from the Toyota dealer, owner of dealership personal vehicle, 50 miles from my house. I borrowed friend's 3/4 ton F250 diesel, and rented a u haul car hauler. Between two, trailer and the 60, the gross weight was @ 6,000 to 6500 lbs. It cost me some money. But it was safe and we cruised at 55 to 60 mph with no issues.

Think about others when you do something, like seriously overloading your tow vehicle that may endanger others. If your being cheap about towing a 60/62, you probably should not put buy it, cause when you own it it will just cost $$$ you more.
 
There are more than a few stories of transfer cases blowing up due to age/neglect/loose bolts/oil low - when flat towing. Always best to remove the rear driveshaft fully (ideally) or lash it up very well under the truck. I flat tow only in town - I would never try to do 800 miles, especially without a 3/4 ton domestic tow vehicle.
 
I don't see why you'd need to disconnect anything. Can't just leave it in neutral?

Maybe putting the tranfer case and the transmission in neutral just to be safe. Hubs unlocked, of course.

I see people flat towing all the time across I-10. Toyota pickup pulling Toyota pickup with stuff in it. Or a car pulling two cars (no joke). They go slow but they seem to make it.

I would recommend checking alignment before flat towing. And definitely write "In tow" on the back, add lights, etc.
 
Thanks for the replies I have a Dodge diesel which I pull a 10000 lbs trailer all the time so the pulling vehicle no problem. I think maybe the dolly is my best option thanks again.

I towed my FJ60 from the backwoods of New Hampshire to Virginia about 700 miles using a 2007 F150 with a 5.4L gas on a car trailer (flatbed style) I rented. Solid 7MPG (only get 12 daily so not to bad).

No issues no problems and no wear and tear on the 60 series. The F150 handled it like a dream, but it is setup to tow anyways.

Find a place to rent a trailer and do it right. this way you will have no issues.

IF you use a 2 wheel car dolly then remove the rear drive shaft and I would disconnect the ebrake for safety.
 
Best bet, rent a trailer. You can tow it long distance with a tow dolly. Transmission in neutral, transfer case in neutral (Yes it has a neutral position).
 
damn dude, i think you answered your own question, you've got very capable tow pig n probably know someone who's got a flatbed or car hauler you could beg, borrow or steal. x2 on scottT's comment above
 
If you are going to tow it put the transfer in neutral. The two transfer drive gears, front and rear, and bearings are splash lubricated and that will keep the lower end of the transfer lubricated. The rest of the drive train, transfer and transmission, should not be turning.
 
Thanks everyone I really appreciate your input. I have found someone to rent a flatbed car trailer to put it on better safe than sorry. I have about 300 hrs. on this rebuilt so far so can not afford damage to the drivetrain. What a great resource for a new cruiser owner thanks again.
 

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