Torquing ALL your knuckle arm nuts (1 Viewer)

[GeoRoss]

Sooooo, I have always been trying to figure out things most of you guys probably learned in the womb. I’ve never been able to check the torque of the knuckle nuts that are next to the dust shield. I’ve just put a wrench on them and gave it the Ol’ German gutentite. I’ve never felt that very satisfactory.

I’m sure you can use variation of crows feet, and I do want some. I discovered something by accident these things called torque adapters. If you are using them at 90° the torque doesn’t change. If not you need to do a little math depending on the length of the torque adapter.

I’m sure I’ll find other uses, but knuckle nuts will now be torque checked confidently now.

I’ll be curious how others check the torque of those nuts with standard tools. No combination of what I have could.

 

[bajaphile]

Yep, those are a great solution.

I've been running without the dust shield so I can access the outboard ones a little easier...still not easy. Generally if I'm on a long wheeling trip I will just grab my largest box end and give it a tug to ensure its snug. Using the torque adapter as you show would be much better!

 

[NLXTACY]

I literally just push on the dust shield so the socket fits. It'll bend out of the way.

 

[shocktower]

I torque them before I put the dust shield on

 

[Tools R Us]

I torque them before I put the dust shield on

The discussion is about retorque, checking fastener tension in service.

 

[Rifleman]

Sooooo, I have always been trying to figure out things most of you guys probably learned in the womb. I’ve never been able to check the torque of the knuckle nuts that are next to the dust shield. I’ve just put a wrench on them and gave it the Ol’ German gutentite. I’ve never felt that very satisfactory.

I’m sure you can use variation of crows feet, and I do want some. I discovered something by accident these things called torque adapters. If you are using them at 90° the torque doesn’t change. If not you need to do a little math depending on the length of the torque adapter.

I’m sure I’ll find other uses, but knuckle nuts will now be torque checked confidently now.

I’ll be curious how others check the torque of those nuts with standard tools. No combination of what I have could.

View attachment 1986876

View attachment 1986878

Great minds tend to think alike, I've been using my set of Britool box end crows feet for years.

I torque them before I put the dust shield on

If you haven't check the torque on those nuts in a while I'd highly recommend you do, it's not uncommon to find 1, or 2 that are loose after a little trail use. I make it a point every time I'm underneath my truck doing an oil change to run a torque wrench over them.

Below is a photo of the Britool box end crows foot i use to torque mine with.

 

[NV1971FJ40]

There’s a dust shield?

 

[greentruck]

Doesn't obviate checking torque, but I paint marked all of mine to at least give my laziness a visual check when the t-wrench doesn't get uncased.

 

[Rifleman]

Doesn't obviate checking torque, but I paint marked all of mine to at least give my laziness a visual check when the t-wrench doesn't get uncased.

Working on my own aircraft i got into the habit of putting witness paint marks on fasteners that didn't use safety wire. That habit carried over to when i did the rebuild on my front axle. I have nice white paint marks on all 8 nuts ,studs and steering knuckle lower control arm.

To my surprise the first time i checked the torque on those nuts, i found that 2 of them were loose, funny thing was, their paint marks were still aligned. So in my case i found out it wasn't a good idea to rely to much on those paint marks. YMMV

 

[1973Guppie]

I use an offset long wrench I carry especially for this on the trail. Check torque on the trail every morning before setting out.

 

[greentruck]

Nope, I wouldn't rely on them. I suspect your experience suggests the value of rechecking torque after the initial service. The 4 bolts (on a side) have a big task, pulling that big ol' casting tight against the bottom of that even bigger knuckle casting. Getting them apart is a bit of an adventure after they've been all tight for a long time. Getting them back that tight again can take more than one try unless you're the sort that does this task regularly. I think working them a few miles tends to catch potential looseness of the ordinary sort. That's when I marked mine. Generally, they then won't be an issue that needs dealt with outside of ordinary service UNTIL you hit the rocks and give 'em a real workout. Still a good idea to recheck torque periodically, depending on how the vehicle is used (DD vs trailered) and don't trust the paint beyond using it as a leading indicator, particularly when on the trail.

 

[Jgunner]

I have arp’s, and they’ve been solid so far. They may give me more confidence then i should have. Prob time to check em. I like the nylock nut on em though.

 

[Bama4door]

I have arp’s, and they’ve been solid so far. They may give me more confidence then i should have. Prob time to check em. I like the nylock nut on em though.

Do you have a part number handy for the ARP’s?

Also, what is the proper torque spec for knuckle nuts?

 

[Rifleman]

IIRC the torque on the knuckle nuts is 71 foot pounds.

 

[GeoRoss]

I literally just push on the dust shield so the socket fits. It'll bend out of the way.

So you're telling me that not only does my 94 have the better transmission, more stylish front dash, better looking front grill and no airbag shenanigans it also comes with vastly stronger dust shields?

I seriously never considered just pushing the dust shield to the point I could fit a socket and torque wrench on there as it seemed like it would take a lot with the basic tools I have had on hand. Truthfully my dust shields really don't seem to bend or flex much. Part of the reason I started this is I was pretty sure there was a more simple way to check the torque on these nuts. These are important fasteners to check and it is not alway obvious how to get at them that inexperienced mechanics like myself have no clue how to get at. I hope that flexing tip helps other newbie mechanics out there.


All that said, I just painted my dust shields. The last thing I want to do is scratch those purty dust shields up by going all caveman on them with bending, flexing, rubbing wrenches and sockets and greasy hands on them.

 

[fjbj40]

Not trying to start something, but, just because you put a torque wrench on there and it goes "click" does not truly mean it's torqued. It simply means it's tight.

In order to properly use a torque wrench, the fastener you are torquing needs to be moving, as in you would loosen the nut then torque it to value.

Don't get me wrong, but getting the click is better than doing nothing. I simply put my 1/2" drive extended ratchet on there and give a tighten pull. If it moved, I loosen and then get out the torque wrench and torque to value.

I should mention I do not hardcore off-road so I have never experienced the loosening phenomen.

I'm sure the ing will begin

 

[baldilocks]

Do you have a part number handy for the ARP’s?

Also, what is the proper torque spec for knuckle nuts?

I just ordered a set from Front Range off road. They sell a version that ARP supposedly makes for them that come with lock nuts made of the same metal. They get torqued 110-120ft-lbs. That is pushing 20k pounds of clamping force.

 

[Tools R Us]

Not trying to start something, but, just because you put a torque wrench on there and it goes "click" does not truly mean it's torqued. It simply means it's tight.

In order to properly use a torque wrench, the fastener you are torquing needs to be moving, as in you would loosen the nut then torque it to value.

Don't get me wrong, but getting the click is better than doing nothing. I simply put my 1/2" drive extended ratchet on there and give a tighten pull. If it moved, I loosen and then get out the torque wrench and torque to value.

I should mention I do not hardcore off-road so I have never experienced the loosening phenomen.

I'm sure the ing will begin

I can easily put more than rated torque on the fasteners with a 1/2" drive extended ratchet. IIRC, those fasteners torque very close to yield, over tightening will ruin them. As you say, torque check is less than ideal, but years of experience has shown it to be beneficial.

Have fought this since the FJ40 days, gudentite, more than gudentite, different hardware, tabs welded for extra hardware, gluing/wiring it in place, etc. Turns out that factory hardware, carefully setup to factory spec, works great. Occasionally torque check at 71ft/lb, may not be 100% spec, but gives a good check. None should significantly move, one or more continues to move, the hardware is compromised and needs to be replaced. IMHO, changing it at leisure, is way better than having the arm come off on a trip.

Doing it this way has reduced the problem to zero. Have at least one set of aftermarket hardware in the spare bin, have never used it because, I know and trust the factory stuff to work, well proven. The driver side on mine has never had the arm removed from the knuckle, still the hardware from the factory, never been loosened. If the hardware is working, see no good reason to ever disturb it and potentially introduce unnecessary problems?

 

[Jgunner]

I just ordered a set from Front Range off road. They sell a version that ARP supposedly makes for them that come with lock nuts made of the same metal. They get torqued 110-120ft-lbs. That is pushing 20k pounds of clamping force.

Yep, i love em. Since i have slee high steer arms as well, double sheered to my stock ones(one rhd arm) i have an additional 3 per side on my ride. I plan on not loosing steering.

 

[shocktower]

Great minds tend to think alike, I've been using my set of Britool box end crows feet for years.

If you haven't check the torque on those nuts in a while I'd highly recommend you do, it's not uncommon to find 1, or 2 that are loose after a little trail use. I make it a point every time I'm underneath my truck doing an oil change to run a torque wrench over them.

Below is a photo of the Britool box end crows foot i use to torque mine with.
View attachment 1987115

Oh I check them, often still in good shape, thank you