Torque wrenching bead lockers on DD .. how often? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Threads
149
Messages
2,610
If I went with bead lockers on a DD, and I carried a torque wrench around how many miles (in intervals) would I need to re-torque?


Also if I retorqued (again, within set intervals) while on the road on a 1000 mile run, would that keep things safe?


The idea of having BL's for Moab is nice, but not economically viable if I need to double up on wheels and tires. My daily commute is nothing, so the retorquing would not be that bad .. once a week? Two? More ??



TY
 
I don't know if beadlocks are DOT approved. You may wish to look into that before using them on the hiway.
 
Last edited:
The beadlocks on my 4runner have to be constantly re-torqued. It is not a d.d. but I drive it to trails closer than 5-6 hours, and around town. They were inexpensive and work good for the trail, but for a d.d., long distance rig I would spend the big bucks and get d.o.t. approved ones. (There are some but I don't recall the make). Mine are always leaking and I constantly air back up. It's a running joke that at the trail head I'm the only one airing UP! In hindsight I would not have gotten beadlocks. I mounted mtr's on them and I really don't need to go under 15 psi with those tires. But since they leak I'm always under 15 psi anyway! Plus I can't balance them so I have some wobble issues. A real p.i.t.a. all around.
JonB
 
No way to balance them internally? How do the DOT approved BL's differ? Do they still have leakage issues?



TY
 
I started a thread about this a while back and it was kicked around. Internal beadlocks are the way to go unfortunately they arn't available as far as I have been able to determine except in military type situations. Course you and I could always take a trip to a military depot. :idea:
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
We have run bead locks on our race truck and we have never re-torque them but we do use lock-tite.


Interesting ... blue, or red? :D


For s***es and giggles, can you post a pic of one of these race trucks? This thread needs a pic or two .. :D




TY
 
T Y L E R said:



Interesting ... blue, or red? :D


For s***es and giggles, can you post a pic of one of these race trucks? This thread needs a pic or two .. :D




TY

Red
Mvc-123f.jpg
 
T Y L E R said:
No way to balance them internally? How do the DOT approved BL's differ? Do they still have leakage issues?



I have tried the big-rig balancing powder that you put inside, but with constantly airing up/down, too much moisture gets inside and the powder starts to ball up. Currently I have 5 golf balls inside them, which is good for a laugh when I come to a stop next to someone as they can hear the golf balls roll around. Helped a little bit.
I smeared blue rtv sealant on the inside to the weld bead and that really slowed down the leakage on three, one stopped leaking completely. I don't recall the difference with the d.o.t. approved ones but I'm pretty sure they are out there for civilians. They are gonna be spendy, but I want a set of trail rims so you can sell me your oem's! ;)
In approx 2-3k of around town driving I have never been pulled over with the beadlocks. Cops here are pretty lax, all summer long rigs that have just done the Rubicon come through town in various interpretations of street legality and trail "modifications".
JonB
 
I really should check my beadlocks. Installed them and never retorqued them. They do not leak at all, I set them at 25psi and they are 25 when I check them weeks later. Same for wheeling....I set them at 6psi and they stay thay way. I didn't use locktight. Allied beadlocks...
 
I run beadlocks on my daily driven FJ40. I've put over 40K miles on the last set of TSL radials and rarely retorque. When I first mounted the tires I checked them a lot and rarely found a problem with the bolts loosening. After retorquing several times after the initial break-in I found that the bolts were still at the proper torque. Now I only check them before and after I hit the trail. The only time I've found a couple bolts loosening up is shortly after install; after a 1100 mile drive to Moab and then running a couple hard trails. No leaks and no locktite here.
These rims are aluminum Eagle 589s converted by Champion. I plan to have my stock FZJ80 rims converted also. The legality issue is largely an urban myth. There is no vehicle code violation that specifically prohibits beadlocks. The only DOT regulations for rims require that manufacturer and date of production be stamped on the rim. There has been a standing offer for several years over at Pirate4x4 offering a cash reward for anyone who can produce a ticket with a vehicle code violation # prohibiting beadlocks. No one has yet to collect on the offer. Go for it.



BTW Phil... Nice rig!
 
Ty,
Most bead lock wheels are not DOT approved. I don't know how much that matters in Canada. There are a couple of companies that have either recently received DOT approval or are in the process of getting approval. One is High Impact Wheels. I can't remember the other.

Internal inflatable locks are cool 'cause they lock both the inside and outside beads. But they seem to be darn expen$ive and I imagine the local tire guys would be clueless when it came time to mount them.

Stazworks makes some serious hard core internal bead locks wheels that lock both beads (it's a split rim much like a HMMWV wheel) and I think you could mount them yourself in an afternoon if you have a CO2 tank to seat the beads. They will likely be the next wheels I buy for the 80.

Oh, read up on balancing tires with BBs, Equal and other random things.

:beer:
 
Curran said:
Internal inflatable locks are cool 'cause they lock both the inside and outside beads. But they seem to be darn expen$ive and I imagine the local tire guys would be clueless when it came time to mount them.

Somewhat correct :flipoff2: :D

T, go with internals - you won't be sorry. 2 choices; Secondairs out of OZ currently imported by Staun or Tirelocs out of Sweden. No DOT issues, lock both sides, also serve as run flats, CHEAPER, and the comment above about mounting them... :confused: .... all they need is an extra valve hole.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:

Thats such a cool grand cherokee. :D . Whats it's got, 24-30" of suspension travel? ;)


Like the Jeep caught some virus and morphed .. :eek:




TY :beer:
 
Junk said:
T, go with internals - you won't be sorry. 2 choices; Secondairs out of OZ currently imported by Staun or Tirelocs out of Sweden. No DOT issues, lock both sides, also serve as run flats, CHEAPER


Yes I found and considered those, however I must say Junk and I have different opinions of what CHEAPER is. :doh:
 
Junk said:
...and the comment above about mounting them... :confused: .... all they need is an extra valve hole.

Eh, I want you see you explain that to Manny, Mo and Jack. The idiots around here are clueless with the lug-centric v. hub-centric concept and look at me like I'm speaking in toungs when I ask them to try spinning the tire on the wheel before they start adding weights to the rim. Asking them to stick a nylon bladder inside the tire and make sure it is not between the wheel and the bead is a step too far with these gents. But I agree it shouldn't be too hard and a good off-road shop should be able to help out.
 
Junk said:
Somewhat correct :flipoff2: :D

T, go with internals - you won't be sorry. 2 choices; Secondairs out of OZ currently imported by Staun or Tirelocs out of Sweden. No DOT issues, lock both sides, also serve as run flats, CHEAPER, and the comment above about mounting them... :confused: .... all they need is an extra valve hole.


Junk,

I looked into them both while at work this PM. The Tirelocs are very cost prohibitive, but the Secondairs look sweet. Not sure yet if they stock them here, but I noticed Darren is selling them. I like the fact that I can still go with the cheaper plain black Rock Crawler wheels I like, and just drill an extra hole for the valve and spend the extra coin on these internals, instead of on beadlocks which I might have to worry about running a 1000 miles at a time on some trips. Plus they serve as run flats in a pinch.


TY
 
Well I actually found a few shops in Mn that sell Secondair. This place looks promising .. the plus is they sell wheels, super swampers, and have ramped 80's before and cut what was needed so the owner could run 37 krawlers.

http://www.burnsvilleoffroad.com/04_08.html


sleecruiser34.jpg


The above link is a writeup on their site on the 6" Slee suspension they installed on an 80. Would be convenient to be able to drive into Mn and get my Swampers (purchased, mounted, balanced, Secondair'd), and then have them ramp it right there, and begin the task of trimming for max flex .. then swing over to visit Poser again. Bringing stuff over here is too damn expensive ..


Hmmmm :D



TY
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom