Tornado takes the top off 1964 SWB FJ-45 (3 Viewers)

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I had blasted the door prior to repair. As a precaution I used eastwood internal frame coating just to help inside the door. It is just impossible to spray inside the door any other way. Very easy to use product.
And some SPI epoxy to seal the outside. Next will be a little high build to cover the grind marks. Then it can wait until i catch up with the Drivers door before color.
Actually looks like a door again! Would not be cost effective if i were paying a shop but cheaper than a therapist.

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Up early blasted the drivers door and both door tops. It was 60 degrees out and a storm due for sat evening. Filled some extra holes in the door, welded on a used door limiter from a newer door. And primer. Blaster ate two ball valves. Tech tip, brass ball valves will last approx 5 min on the blaster. The stainless one lasted a lot longer.

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Tops are in single stage. Didnt want to try and shoot clear with all the edges. Next tackle the bottoms.

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she has some issues to deal with.. like a rotting corner in the floor and a pretty rotten quarter panel.. i'm no buckroseau and i know my limitations so luckily SOR had a NOS FJ45 quarter panel in stock.. pricy but what's my time worth..

So I proceed to put all the blasted bits in Epoxy primer and dig out the plastic and call SOR..
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this is the front curved cross member i speak of. need the one under driver pedals. do you know of a source.
 
this is the front curved cross member i speak of. need the one under driver pedals. do you know of a source.
Front x member avail at these two locations

I am unaware of a second cab under drivers and pass x member mount being offered. I did drill off mine, fix a bit of it and reattached.
 
Front x member avail at these two locations

I am unaware of a second cab under drivers and pass x member mount being offered. I did drill off mine, fix a bit of it and reattached.
thank you very much, my drivers side one is maybe not repairable. i will keep looking for used. if not remake, thank you, kevin hey, how bad were your original. so bad you had to buy a used tub. do you still have them?
 
I put a different tub on to gain 2 very important things.
1.. approx 3" what guy doesn't want another 3"..
2.. Convertible.. while i still have hair it is best to let it blow in the breeze..

Old tub is LONG GONE.. pretty much gave it away. Before the market took a major upswing you couldn't give parts away. You might reach out to https://pacolonline.com/shop/ see if they might sell you the parts you are looking for prior to assembly of a complete tub.
 
I put a different tub on to gain 2 very important things.
1.. approx 3" what guy doesn't want another 3"..
2.. Convertible.. while i still have hair it is best to let it blow in the breeze..

Old tub is LONG GONE.. pretty much gave it away. Before the market took a major upswing you couldn't give parts away. You might reach out to Welcome to PACOLONLINE LLC - https://pacolonline.com/shop/ see if they might sell you the parts you are looking for prior to assembly of a complete tub.
thank you, my truck is a convertible. it will be a neat project. thank you, kevin
 
I have a rust free 45 cowl in the classifieds. That is ALL I have to offer at this time. Per my signature line, you can CALL to discuss. Please do not post inquiries to my profile.
 
Doesn't look like it but lots of time spent with build primer, wet sanding and finally sealer. Fingers crossed should be in paint by the end of the week. I HATE wetsanding. and not really a fan of body work at all, i looked like a grey smurf with my OSHA approved footwear.. Takes a special kind of patience and a lot of garage space.

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Finally some progress.. Used up a whole bunch of parts that have been sitting in a box for a LONG time.. Door received new felts, wipers, etc.. New OEM outside handles, door locks for both 45's and new front emblems should be in shortly at the dealer. Need to blast and paint the inside parts, regulators and latches. I debated on aftermarket, we used reproductions on Chef's truck and wasn't sold. springs in the catches were weak, and they needed to be painted anyway. I have 6 doors worth of parts laying around so why not try and salvage, i can always replace later with reproductions.
Nice to get some things on the truck finally. Not perfect but wasn't going for perfect. New door seals to body and updated door limiters to be installed.
SOO many little parts / details go into these builds.. Found a tiny coolant leak in one of the 3f throttle body coolant lines, need to replace that and retest.

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Erik

I don’t know if you’d be interested, but I am planning to put an NOS windshield vent and a pair of NOS vent screens up for sale in a bulk package some time after thanksgiving.
 
appreciate the offer Mark @65swb45 but vent screens are cad plated sitting on the shelf, the flap and gasket are waiting for me to have get a "round to it" and get them in paint. For some reason i just haven't gotten to the little things yet. Kick vents, windshield flap, pass side vent cover, wiper wiring and motors. I still have some of the same little things to finish on Chef's 45.
Those items are SUPER hard to find so i imagine they will be very popular. I hope i have just about all the little things to finish up. I'll call the shop if I am missing anything.
 
did I need those?
 
All the little details take time..
Running boards with pyramid black rubber matting done
kick vents done
side air intake done
windshield flap painted and installed, I had the screw parts cad plated.
Once i align the flap I have the mesh screens to go in.
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I really never liked the design Toyota came up with of a "stud" going thru the angle bracket on the top of the windshield frame. Makes it a challenge to go from hard top to no top. So i modified the design a bit before i painted the last two remaining hard top above door pieces. This truck has the 64 tall bug-catcher windows in it. which makes this an easier swap because the top door weather strip is very thick and mounts to the hardtop. Later doors might not allow this with the angled bracket attached to the hardtop rail above the door. I debated installing the weld nut behind the area but in a stock configuration there was a rubber washer that is approx the same thickness of this weld nut. If it doesn't work, i can just grind my tack welds and move it.

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