Tools R Us is a BAD DUDE! (2 Viewers)

[drexx]

12Aug2005 (UTC +8)

For what it's worth, my Arab-spec 1995 FZJ-80 (1FZ-FE and A442F) has a 4-core steel radiator, and with obviously more (25% ?) cooling fins than my general-country spec'ed HZJ-80. I'm not so sure yet if it's a Toyota part though. But other differences include a larger a/c compressor and three condenser/blower sets (front, rear aircon and console fridge).

 

[cruiserdan]

i wish we had someone with Toyota connections. Maybe a guy who worked at a dealer that could get in touch with the Toyota tech center.

No s***!

 

[powderpig]

Drexx, I find it had to believe that the radiator is steel. Even stainless steel. This metal is not great to be used as a radiator(think oxidation big time, loss of efficency real quick, low heat disapation, are some of the quick thought on this metal). I could see a 4 row radiator that would be sweet. later robbie

 

[Gumby]

I was just doing some research for a ppt presentation for the new auto curriculum and found a chart concerning running too cool.

In a 60 hour engine test:

 

[cruiserdan]

Very interesting Todd.

As I mentioned earlier I run a 160. When I'm moving it is usually above 180 but can dip below that on coasting descents and stay there for a bit. If my fan blade experiments pan out I think that I will go back to the stock 190 stat. Fuel consumption is not an issue for me but cylinder wall wear is.
Our other current thread referencing aux temp gauges has some other interesting observations. If I read some of the data points correctly it appears that a truck running a 160 is going to be popping in and out of "closed-loop" when it is at the operating temperature range established by the 160 'stat. That can't be much of a help.


D-

 

[Rainy Day FZJ]

Measurements coming soon

I have a 2 core AL radiatior and within a few days will have a 3 core brass. I took the OEM fan and trimmed it rather aggressively, the tips are more cut back that slee's description. I will put the OEM on and the old AL will be the sacraficial lamb. With the AL one tested the next step will be a well educated guesstimate for the brass one. I think that if I run the fan without the shroud and with a strobe timing lite I should be able to see how close it compares to the ringed fan.
3/4 of an inch were trimmed from the OEM fan. Imagine looking at the front of the blade at the center where the blades attach being zero point and 3/4 of an inch at the tips that hook tward the radiator. Kinda hard to explain and immagine it. I took Slee's cutting more aggresively.

Had another thought, how thick does the W/P spacer really need to be? There might be able to gain 1/4 of an inch of space with less spacer. Does any one know?

 

[cruiserdan]

I just completed my change-over to the 94 3.0 V6 blade, without ring. I spent some time with Christo on the phone a couple days ago and he indicated to me that the issue IS NOT blade-to-core clearance, rather it is blade-to-shroud clearance at the bottom of the shroud.
With that in mind I dug into mine today. What we have here is, the fan is not centered in the radiator core top-to bottom but rather below the centerline of the radiator. The net result is the blade will actually hit the lowermost portion of the shroud long before it hits the radiator core.

The top photo shows the bottom of the shroud. If you look closely you will see signs of the ringed fan ring brushing the shroud. The second photo shows the shroud after I removed that portion that was a potential problem. the bottom photo shows the ringed fan on the right and the fan that went back on on the left. This afternoon's test drive indicated that there is no blade contact and the new fan is definitely moving more air. I can actually hear it pull like the original did. I have not heard that sound in a long time. I did not hook up the boat for a loaded test but I hope to do that next weekend.

D-

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Dan, thanks for taking the time to test all of this. The mild overheating issues I've had with my truck have always bothered me. Even with the intercooler it heats up more than I'd think it should.

Hope you have a good supply of the 3.0 fans in stock if this works out!

 

[IdahoDoug]

Dan,

Nice work! So, is there an air gap on the top area of the shroud that could potentially be tightened up a bit to maximize airflow (by minimizing shroud to fan clearance up top)? I'm too lazy to go out and look at my trucks..

DougM

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I just completed my change-over to the 94 3.0 V6 blade, without ring. I spent some time with Christo on the phone a couple days ago and he indicated to me that the issue IS NOT blade-to-core clearance, rather it is blade-to-shroud clearance at the bottom of the shroud.
With that in mind I dug into mine today. What we have here is, the fan is not centered in the radiator core top-to bottom but rather below the centerline of the radiator. The net result is the blade will actually hit the lowermost portion of the shroud long before it hits the radiator core.

The top photo shows the bottom of the shroud. If you look closely you will see signs of the ringed fan ring brushing the shroud. The second photo shows the shroud after I removed that portion that was a potential problem. the bottom photo shows the ringed fan on the right and the fan that went back on on the left. This afternoon's test drive indicated that there is no blade contact and the new fan is definitely moving more air. I can actually hear it pull like the original did. I have not heard that sound in a long time. I did not hook up the boat for a loaded test but I hope to do that next weekend.

D-

Dan what is the dia. of the 94 3.0 V6 blade? How did the fan spacer pan out with the new fan? How is the 94 3.0 V6 blade different from the OEM fan?

 

[cruiserdan]

Dan what is the dia. of the 94 3.0 V6 blade? How did the fan spacer pan out with the new fan? How is the 94 3.0 V6 blade different from the OEM fan?

The 94 3.0 blade, 16361-65020, is about 1/8 of an inch give or take closer to the radiator than the top edge of the ring on the ring fan (16361-65010) and is the same diameter as the inner ring which is about 17 inches. The 65020 fan has 7 blades like the 65010 fan. The original fan, 16361-66020 has 8 blades and is a larger diameter. I do not have one at home to measure, I'll do that later. The original fan is a teensy bit closer to the radiator than the 65020 fan is. That plus the additional diameter is where the problem with the lower part of the shroud will come into play.

D-


Edit to add additional info:

The original fan, 16361-66020 is 18 1/2 inches in diameter.

 

[cruiserdan]

Dan,

Nice work! So, is there an air gap on the top area of the shroud that could potentially be tightened up a bit to maximize airflow (by minimizing shroud to fan clearance up top)? I'm too lazy to go out and look at my trucks..

DougM

Since the fan is smaller in diameter there is a larger gap all the way around the shroud. I'm not sure how one could fasten something to the shroud to safely close that gap. I would be concerned about it getting loose and have the fan catch it and rip things apart.

 

[turbocruiser]

Wow, great thread, I want to clarify something though, has anyone had a fan blade hit a radiator on a non-supercharged, non-bodylifted vehicle? I cannot tell from all the posts about trimming blades and shortening spacers, etc, whether a vehicle with stock blade and stock body mounts has ever had this problem??? Thanks.

 

[cruiserdan]

I have not heard of a blade-to-radiator or shroud clearance issue on a vehicle with stock mounting of the fan / vs body.

 

[turbocruiser]

I have not heard of a blade-to-radiator or shroud clearance issue on a vehicle with stock mounting of the fan / vs body.

Cool, thanks, if anyone would have heard of it, you would have heard, so thanks again.

 

[Rich]

It has happened during water crossings. The extra density of water enables the fan to flex into the radiator. Not a typical every day occurence.

 

[Rainy Day FZJ]

What is the cost and availability for the 16361-65010 3.0 fan? You stated that the OEM fan is larger in diameter, and slightly closer. Do you have the height measurement difference? do you think that trimming the OEM fan and the shroud would be succesful?

 

[cruiserdan]

You do not want the 16361-65010, that is the ringed fan. The original 1FZ fan (16361-66020) is about 1/4 inch closer to the radiator and about and inch and a half larger in diameter. I do not like the idea of trimming the blades. I do not trust myself to get them even enough. I'm afraid that an un-trimmed 66020 fan would hit the bottom seam of the radiator even with the shroud cut away.

The 16361-65020 (no ring 3.0 V6) lists for $98.58 and board members pay $73.93.

 

[Lockd97]

180* trermostat

I know I'm throwing this in late here but I'm running a 180* T-stat and I consistantly see 190-195* temps when warmed up and no closed loop/open loop ecu issues verified by the ecu from the OBDII port (scan tool) and also my Raytek minitem MT4 IR thermometer. I like the temperature margin it affords me. 220* is cutting it awful close.

 

[cruiserdan]

Where did you get a 180 for a 1FZ? The OEM is 190 and the TRD is 160.