$$ to spend on 2F (1 Viewer)

[Rochfort]

I can throw in a few grand, stuff's cheap here. Bored out, cam, headers, dual air, tuned exhaust. Anything else?
My rig"s pretty enough to sell to a skirt and one thing I've learned selling to women they're addicted to speed, power, no tractors.

 

[Skreddy]

It takes a LOT of money to eek noticeable power from a 2F.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I'll bet they want disk brakes, and power steering plus good AC.

 

[Rochfort]

It takes a LOT of money to eek noticeable power from

It takes a LOT of money to eek noticeable power from a 2F.

I'll bet they want disk brakes, and power steering plus good AC.

.
Yeah they will, the lil dears.

I'll bet they want disk brakes, and power steering plus good AC.

hehe

 

[Rochfort]

It takes a LOT of money to eek noticeable power from a 2F.

Yeah? Try swapping in a small block V8.

I don't want to lose the original engine, numbers match.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I'll bet they want disk brakes, and power steering plus good AC.

Testify….

 

[Grayscale]

It is a 'stroker.' So, it has a stroke that is longer than the bore diameter. Long connecting rods make for a massive rotating assembly. Redline is kinda low, as a result. If the 2F isn't running right, fix it. The 2F-bottleneck, glass-ceiling, is the intake plenum.

 

[Skreddy]

Yeah? Try swapping in a small block V8.

I don't want to lose the original engine, numbers match.

There’s no “numbers” to match on an F or 2F engine with the body and frame.

And as for swapping in a small block, you referenced making more power from the 2F, nothing about engine swaps.

 

[Rochfort]

There’s no “numbers” to match on an F or 2F engine with the body and frame.

And as for swapping in a small block, you referenced making more power from the 2F,

I referenced getting more power, engine swap or mods are the two methods I kniw if

There’s no “numbers” to match on an F or 2F engine with the body and frame.

And as for swapping in a small block, you referenced making more power from the 2F, nothing about engine swaps.

Yeah well, this ain't Iowa. In Colombia engine/chassis numbers are registered with the MVA along with actual impressions lifted from the vehicle on cellophane. When you change the ownership those numbers must be resubmitted and must match what the MVA has on file. If you paint the vehicle a different colour, or if you change the top, you must change the registration and again submit engine and chassis numbers and if they don't match you're in a world of pain.

 

[Rochfort]

There’s no “numbers” to match on an F or 2F engine with the body and frame.

And as for swapping in a small block, you referenced making more power from the 2F, nothing about engine swaps.

Yeah well, this ain't Iowa. In Colombia engine/chassis numbers are registered with the MVA along with actual impressions lifted from the vehicle on cellophane. When you change the ownership those numbers must be resubmitted and must match what the MVA has on file. If you paint the vehicle a different colour, or if you change the top, you must change the registration and again submit engine and chassis numbers and if they don't match you're in a world of pain.

 

[White Stripe]

The best way to make power on a 2f in my opinion is a better camshaft profile and forced induction.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Nitro Tractors R Us

 

[Grayscale]

My tricked-out 2F, in a theoretical world where all of this could be made available:
1. Aftermarket / custom aluminum connecting rods - for increased redline
2. A combo of tight bearing clearances, for the camshaft, crankshaft, and low-tension piston rings (because viscous tractor oil is more volatile, increases parasitic loss, and its specific-heat is not ideal for engine cooling)
3. Gapless piston rings - this is where two rings sit in the same land, overlapping each other, reducing blow-by and increasing compression
4. Factory exhaust manifold - the 2F needs not the direct heat riser, but, some indirect heat thru a dividing shield, but, the whole fuel-atomization topic is mainly a condition of temperature, the plenum was designed for a naturally-aspirated application (carb) and it was more than capable when the system was in a factory configuration. I tend to think that headers make the number one cylinder run lean when winter circulates thru the engine bay, and the original carb set-up had a wax thermo valve that could direct hot air off of the exhaust manifold, so it could work better regardless of temperature. Both of my '75, and '82 air cleaner assemblies have non-functioning wax thermo valves, so with headers, and likely damaged / missing parts, I'll probably never know what the original start-up was like, but, the cold-driving is the only time it feels like a farm impliment.
5. A vacuum-operated choke breaker on the non-USA carb - making it novice-proof for start-up, as long as you remember to use the choke.

Most of the slowness is related to shifting the 2F with the H42 and 4.11s. If feels slow because I'm driving next to cars with automatics. 4Runners, FJ Cruisers, Tacomas. The rest of the time, the suspension, steering, and reasonable braking distance (no abs) is keeping the throttle from opening.

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

This is a classic "while I'm in there" instances... I think the most significant improvement you can make, is a new cam shaft. That being said, your in that deep you may as well balance the rest of the motor... $$

We'll have your money spent in no time...

 

[Rochfort]

This is a classic "while I'm in there" instances... I think the most significant improvement you can make, is a new cam shaft. That being said, your in that deep you may as well balance the rest of the motor... $$

We'll have your money spent in no time...

... build pix to follow.
Does electric vs mechanical fuel pump make a difference?

 

[Rochfort]

My tricked-out 2F, in a theoretical world where all of this could be made available:
1. Aftermarket / custom aluminum connecting rods - for increased redline
2. A combo of tight bearing clearances, for the camshaft, crankshaft, and low-tension piston rings (because viscous tractor oil is more volatile, increases parasitic loss, and its specific-heat is not ideal for engine cooling)
3. Gapless piston rings - this is where two rings sit in the same land, overlapping each other, reducing blow-by and increasing compression
4. Factory exhaust manifold - the 2F needs not the direct heat riser, but, some indirect heat thru a dividing shield, but, the whole fuel-atomization topic is mainly a condition of temperature, the plenum was designed for a naturally-aspirated application (carb) and it was more than capable when the system was in a factory configuration. I tend to think that headers make the number one cylinder run lean when winter circulates thru the engine bay, and the original carb set-up had a wax thermo valve that could direct hot air off of the exhaust manifold, so it could work better regardless of temperature. Both of my '75, and '82 air cleaner assemblies have non-functioning wax thermo valves, so with headers, and likely damaged / missing parts, I'll probably never know what the original start-up was like, but, the cold-driving is the only time it feels like a farm impliment.
5. A vacuum-operated choke breaker on the non-USA carb - making it novice-proof for start-up, as long as you remember to use the choke.

Most of the slowness is related to shifting the 2F with the H42 and 4.11s. If feels slow because I'm driving next to cars with automatics. 4Runners, FJ Cruisers, Tacomas. The rest of the time, the suspension, steering, and reasonable braking distance (no abs) is keeping the throttle from opening.

Parts cost? Ballpark?

 

[Grayscale]

Parts cost? Ballpark?

Too much. I'm interested in engines, but, I'm happy with the motor just up to spec. I'd rather that the truck retain its original character, than running it for performance.

 

[pb4ugo]

This is a classic "while I'm in there" instances... I think the most significant improvement you can make, is a new cam shaft. That being said, your in that deep you may as well balance the rest of the motor... $$

We'll have your money spent in no time...

^^^^This^^^^

The bottom end can only spin as fast as the top end can feed it. It needs to breathe.

 

[Pighead]

I built my 2F about as much as I can. Bored, balanced, top-shelf domed pistons and rings, RV cam, wide-runner intake, headers, Late F head, Chevy valves, port matched and polished. It's still not fast but it does go slow better.

 

[hobbes]

2FE?