To re-gear or not to re-gear? (1 Viewer)

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I can't imagine any scenario an 8spd 200 would need 5.29's, but it's an option. 4.88's are going to be far more suitable for most 6spd owners.

Fwiw we towed a trailer, with a heavily loaded 8spd 200 (8000lbs) at nearly 17k feet, it still had power. The 3.5L Tacoma on the otherhand :D

I have a 2008 so I would be looking at 6sp with 5.29's vs 4.88's. I'm on 34's and I really haven't felt like I'm hurting for power coming from a FJ Cruiser on 35's. I plan to install Front and Rear ARB Air Lockers so I intend to regear at the same time.
 
For what its worth, if you need to go reaaaaaaaaally deep. Nitro just released 5.29's for the Tundra. So, with mods (such as an ARB or e-locker rear) one could run these in a 200 Series too. 40" tires anyone? :D
@Taco2Cruiser I think you were looking for this news a few months ago.
 
I have a 2008 so I would be looking at 6sp with 5.29's vs 4.88's. I'm on 34's and I really haven't felt like I'm hurting for power coming from a FJ Cruiser on 35's. I plan to install Front and Rear ARB Air Lockers so I intend to regear at the same time.

Let us know when you're ready and we can help make it happen. The conversion to use Tundra and standard 9.5" parts will take a little sorcery of side gears and parts but it's something we've been doing for the last 15 years on the 100/200 :D
 
I have a 2008 so I would be looking at 6sp with 5.29's vs 4.88's. I'm on 34's and I really haven't felt like I'm hurting for power coming from a FJ Cruiser on 35's. I plan to install Front and Rear ARB Air Lockers so I intend to regear at the same time.
I'm on 34s with 4.88s now and they are perfect for towing this Kimberly Kamper Kavavan around in mountains with head wind. I wouldn't go 5.29s with 35s or below unless you were towing something like a 27' airstream (god I love those).

I'm looking at doing stupid stuff, and the first thing I want to ensure is that I can set to a 5.29. Or i'm gonna take an 8 speed and fit it to my 2011 and then my 4.88s will be fine.

Separate of that, and this is how I feel about it, regearing isn't for the low end. It's for the high end. I mean high ground speed with low RPMs. The cruise range, when your power output is low, but you are pushing a ton of wind out of the way and trying to pull heavy things. That's where the constant down shifting comes from. 5.7L has plenty of power for the acceleration, 200 has plenty of gearing for rock crawling. But the highway is where it suffers in my opinion when heavily modified, not at all when stock or mildly built.

And the 8 speeds will run about 100 RPMs lower than the 6 speeds. So for me, I like the stock gearing setup better on the 6 speeds.

The only reason i'm looking at 5.29s is because i'm figuring up the plans for much larger tires.
 
I'm on 34s with 4.88s now and they are perfect for towing this Kimberly Kamper Kavavan around in mountains with head wind. I wouldn't go 5.29s with 35s or below unless you were towing something like a 27' airstream (god I love those).

I'm looking at doing stupid stuff, and the first thing I want to ensure is that I can set to a 5.29. Or i'm gonna take an 8 speed and fit it to my 2011 and then my 4.88s will be fine.

Separate of that, and this is how I feel about it, regearing isn't for the low end. It's for the high end. I mean high ground speed with low RPMs. The cruise range, when your power output is low, but you are pushing a ton of wind out of the way and trying to pull heavy things. That's where the constant down shifting comes from. 5.7L has plenty of power for the acceleration, 200 has plenty of gearing for rock crawling. But the highway is where it suffers in my opinion when heavily modified, not at all when stock or mildly built.

And the 8 speeds will run about 100 RPMs lower than the 6 speeds. So for me, I like the stock gearing setup better on the 6 speeds.

The only reason i'm looking at 5.29s is because i'm figuring up the plans for much larger tires.

Thanks for the feedback! My camper is a bit lighter than the Karavan (badass camper by the way!) and I’ll add a bit of weight for sure but not nearly as heavy as a lot of expo builds. Front bumper, winch, sliders, drawers all happening but that’s it. No RTT, no dual batteries, or second fuel tank or massive skids (ok maybe some aluminum skids). If my wife ever finds something she likes hauling the kids around in more than the LX it may see a rear bumper with swingout but until then I’m not subjectinf her to managing a latch and swing while wrangling two babies everytime she goes shopping lol

Honestly they only reason I am regearing is because I’ll be installing front and rear lockers and at that point adding gears is a minimal cost so why not. I certainly wouldn’t mind a little pep back in the LX step.
 
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Ok, apologies upfront for ignorant question but since @crusieroutfit was kind enough to list the actual factory ratios for the 6sp and 8sp I am a bit confused...

The ratio changes appear to be greater than I would expect for the tire size changes. Assuming a stock tyre is 31.5 and a 6sp transmission:

35/31.5 is a 1.111 factor but 4.88/3.909 is 1.24 I must be missing something as it seems like one is actually gearing lower “engine vs ground” with regear and larger tyres than stock was.

Of course that might be the intention with a very heavy truck. Again sorry for the physics problem on a Saturday night - i know I have missed something obvious.
 
Ok, apologies upfront for ignorant question but since @crusieroutfit was kind enough to list the actual factory ratios for the 6sp and 8sp I am a bit confused...

The ratio changes appear to be greater than I would expect for the tire size changes. Assuming a stock tyre is 31.5 and a 6sp transmission:

35/31.5 is a 1.111 factor but 4.88/3.909 is 1.24 I must be missing something as it seems like one is actually gearing lower “engine vs ground” with regear and larger tyres than stock was.

Of course that might be the intention with a very heavy truck. Again sorry for the physics problem on a Saturday night - i know I have missed something obvious.

Not just tire size.
External mods like bull bars, rear swingouts, rear spare, jerry cans and roof racks create tremendous drag. It’s drag (not to mention additional weight) that you’re fighting besides just tire size.
 
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Oooooh, I like the sound of that. Ping me with a price for the whole lot.
Kurt, have you had the opportunity to play with this set up at all?
 
I’m loaded with family of 3 adults ,3 kids ,dog and a off road trailer. My rig has a mild lift and 12.5 auxiliary fuel tank. As the years go on my load will increase .Driving 395 I find the LC jumping in and out of 6th while dropping to 3rd on the sherwin grade. (6%)
She drives great without the load but with the load it drives me nuts.
Can/should I regear or drive in 5th and call it a day?
I’m thinking 4.30?
 
It’s a better driving experience gears over stock even without the ‘reasons ‘ or ‘need’ for gears. If you can afford them do it.
 
What kind of $$$$ are we talking? This is a 20 year plus rig. I would like to do it right .
 
The set front and back and all the bearings etc is $1400. I paid 12 hours for the install. With incidentals and a rear elocker it was around $4k. Probably $3k without the locker.

A bit less if you pull the thirds and ship to Zuk.

I live close to the west hq for nitro gear so I had them do it in their shop.

I did 4.88 and for the few hundred miles before I added the 35s I was running the 4.88 on 32s. It was pretty fun. It’s still more fun with the 35s than the 3.9 with the 32s.
 
Copy that. We are on the road tomorrow. I’m going to play around with S5 and see what happens. But those steeper long grades look like 55 mph.
Thanks for the 411.
 
Ok, apologies upfront for ignorant question but since @crusieroutfit was kind enough to list the actual factory ratios for the 6sp and 8sp I am a bit confused...

The ratio changes appear to be greater than I would expect for the tire size changes. Assuming a stock tyre is 31.5 and a 6sp transmission:

35/31.5 is a 1.111 factor but 4.88/3.909 is 1.24 I must be missing something as it seems like one is actually gearing lower “engine vs ground” with regear and larger tyres than stock was.

Of course that might be the intention with a very heavy truck. Again sorry for the physics problem on a Saturday night - i know I have missed something obvious.
As I understand it, it is much lower. A 4.3:1 will take you back to near-stock shift points (even just slightly better) on the 6-speed with 33-34” tires. The 4.88 will, as grinchy mentioned, help compensate for increased weight, drag, and even larger tires.
 
I'm on 34s with 4.88s now and they are perfect for towing this Kimberly Kamper Kavavan around in mountains with head wind. I wouldn't go 5.29s with 35s or below unless you were towing something like a 27' airstream (god I love those).

I'm looking at doing stupid stuff, and the first thing I want to ensure is that I can set to a 5.29. Or i'm gonna take an 8 speed and fit it to my 2011 and then my 4.88s will be fine.

Separate of that, and this is how I feel about it, regearing isn't for the low end. It's for the high end. I mean high ground speed with low RPMs. The cruise range, when your power output is low, but you are pushing a ton of wind out of the way and trying to pull heavy things. That's where the constant down shifting comes from. 5.7L has plenty of power for the acceleration, 200 has plenty of gearing for rock crawling. But the highway is where it suffers in my opinion when heavily modified, not at all when stock or mildly built.

And the 8 speeds will run about 100 RPMs lower than the 6 speeds. So for me, I like the stock gearing setup better on the 6 speeds.

The only reason i'm looking at 5.29s is because i'm figuring up the plans for much larger tires.

Are you in the US? If so, where did you find a Kimberly Kamper?

Also, where are you guys sourcing you aux fuel tanks?
 
Are you in the US? If so, where did you find a Kimberly Kamper?

Also, where are you guys sourcing you aux fuel tanks?
I am in the US, and live in North Carolina. I bought the Kamper from guy in Atlanta that imported it a few years earlier when new.

For aux tanks, we (BudBuilt) is a LRA dealer and installer.
 
I am in the US, and live in North Carolina. I bought the Kamper from guy in Atlanta that imported it a few years earlier when new.

For aux tanks, we (BudBuilt) is a LRA dealer and installer.
Lucky guy! Thanks for the info.
 

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