To body lift or not to body lift

[woytovich]

I am working on cleaning up the frame on my 78FJ40 (it has an Aqualu rear tub that is off at the moment). I will also be swapping out the firewall/cowl, WS frame and hood with ones that I have that is in considerably better condition... bottom line: all the body components will be off the truck during this process.

I am installing an H55f w/split TC (but no parking brake on the TC) during this process too... Oh, and I'll be replacing the rotted rear spring hangers too. I'll likely have sliders in place of the OEM steps in the near future.

This will be a 90% street, 10% wheeling truck... for now.

So: should I put on a small body lift? I'm thinking no more than 2"... Why? Well it will be of some help in getting the tub to fit over the H55/TC... plus I want to be able to run 33 and maybe 35" tires and the spring lift is probably about 3" (hard to tell as it's a PO install).

I have a 2" BL on my 60 that I like fine. I have read about the needs of fitting an H55 in a 40. I don't like to SEE the body lift (ie seeing the framerails too much).

Thought, opinions, pictures welcome.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Tankota]

2" body lift on mine since ~1994. NO probs. Tack welded it to frame in about 13 of the ~17? mounting spots. Liked it SUA with 36" swampers but after going SOA with negative arch waggie springs I'd rather remove it and cut more sheet metal for a lower center of gravity...but then there's the clearance issue with my sm465/np205

 

[Seth_O]

I did a 1.5" body lift to clear my drivetrain (SM465/NP203/LC T-case.) It's only noticeable from the back, and then only if you are familiar with LC's and know what to look for. I would have preferred to have made alterations to the body to prevent having to do it, but in my case that wasn't an easily feasible option; and in your situation I would be reluctant to cut up a brand new body .

I used steel tubing spacers which I welded to the frame and then bolted through (overkill probably, but it makes me feel better.) I am SUA, so CoG not a big issue. It wasn't that hard to do, and looks fine (IMO.) I was very cautious to only use the minimum amount of lift necessary, to prevent any shearing forces under sudden braking situations.

 

[Eric_S]

Watch out for steering shaft length when doing a body lift. If you have stock steering, you will need to do something to lengthen the shaft between the steering shaft and gear box.

I have a 1" BL on my FJ40. I put it on when I had a 2-1/2" lift so I could clear 33s better and I did not want to cut the body. Now, I like it since I have fitted an Atlas t-case and it gives me a little more room. It also gave me a little more room for my PSC steering res. since my pump is on the top of the engine above the smog pump.

 

[Leaping Deer]

I wouldn't do it. I can see if you are trying to fit a drivetrain but when I put the H55 into my 45 I'll be modifying the tranny tunnel.

 

[pappy]

I could not fit the H55F in my 1969 without a 1" body lift. Even then, the clearance is very small between the tranny and body. I don't think it looks that bad, but my rear bumper covers up the mounts from behind.

 

[woytovich]

Watch out for steering shaft length when doing a body lift. If you have stock steering, you will need to do something to lengthen the shaft between the steering shaft and gear box.

I have a 1" BL on my FJ40. I put it on when I had a 2-1/2" lift so I could clear 33s better and I did not want to cut the body. Now, I like it since I have fitted an Atlas t-case and it gives me a little more room. It also gave me a little more room for my PSC steering res. since my pump is on the top of the engine above the smog pump.

When I did the 2" lift on the 60 I did not have to lengthen the steering shaft... the slope is different than that in the 40 I guess.

I will likely have stock PS in my 40 (I have a 792F and a PS steering column. That or a saginaw PS box...

How much did you lengthen the shaft? What did you do to lengthen the shaft?

Is there any option to slide the steering column itself further down into the dash (move the steering wheel closer to the dash)? This would only move the steering when maybe 3/4" away from the driver given the angles....

mark

 

[Eric_S]

maybe you can also lift up the steering gear with a small spacer to make sure the rag joint has enough spline engagement. I did not feel comfortable with how little was left after my 1" body lift. After a while, I converted to Saginaw power steering so I did not have to deal with this anymore.