Tire size recommendations for a 1995 FJ80 with a 2" OME Lift?

[n00g7]

Does 2" OME mean 2" lift over stock after it's installed and breaks in?

It should be about 2in over stock. No bumpers, winch, etc. it would be more like 2.5-3. I'm going to move up to stiffer OME springs when I add more weight (sliders, skid plates, 2nd battery etc.) to stay between 2-3 inches, or just move to a 4" Slee.

Look at the FAQ to determine what you need to get to 2/2.5inches.

 

[Nay]

295's are a great looking size on a basic OME lift, IMO. If you add wheel spacers to set the tires out a bit, I think it's just enough to look "big" without going full bore to 35" tires.

As for gearing...yea...but it's really a much bigger deal offroad. The best thing to do with an 80 is not add weight - no amount of gearing is going to help if you add 600 lbs to it before it even gets wet.

 

[ironbinder]

if your sticking with the stock 16 inch wheels then I would go with the 255/85-16, or 285/75-16. The 255 is a true 33" tire and the 285 is close and will give you more tread and brand options. I really personally really like the 255/85 flavor on the 80 series, last winter I swapped out 255/85-16 BFG KM2's for a 255/80-17 Cooper ST Maxx's on a set of 17" take offs from a Taco/T4R that I found on C-list. I like the tall skinny look and performance on 80's

Your set up is what I eventually want on my 1996 FZJ80. I just put the OME 2.5 lift on it and I still have 265/75-16's,,Michelin LTX
I also like the tall skinny profile. It is also better in snow and ice, if you have the right tread blocks.
I wanted to get the 255/85-16's for my rig, but I want Nitto Terra Grapplers, but Nitto does not make that size.
Toyo does, but they are about twice as expensive.
The 17" rim platform looks like a good way to go, but will it fit up under in the wheel well? If I went that route, I would have to get some new wheels, but that is what I was planning on doing in the future as soon as I get some more $$$ anyways.

 

[mrsleeve]

Yeah the 255/85-16 and the 255/80-17 are for all intents and purposes the same size overall. If your going to run a factory take off from a taco/t4r you might want to run a 1" spacer to set the wheels out to where they are with FZJ80 wheel backspacing. I am fairly sure you dont need to run the spacers but thats what am running. The 255 series tires are not offered by that many manufactures and in that many tread patters, and there are only 2 options in the 255/80-17 and thats the BFG KM2's and the Cooper ST Maxx. The KM2s are just too noisy for me and I really really like the ST Maxx's

 

[Schep]

Without re-gearing in the PNW I would say 285/75 on the stock wheels. Long hills/grades and elevation would truly require regearing or a super charger to go up more in tire size.

Or just resign yourself to always being in the slow lane and do 315's.

This is super helpful - I'm actually keeping it pretty stock as far as armor goes. Stock bumpers, remove the running boards- add sliders and a small lift 2"? I want to use it as my primary ski rig, so a lot of trips up the mountains. I would like to do some wheeling, but I don't want to have to regear / add a supercharger or compromise its mountain climbing capabilities. Do you think a OME 2" lift is too big for 285/75 wheels?
Cool Dog BTW- I have a Tri Color Aussie.

 

[n00g7]

No, it's not too big.

 

[Nay]

Do you think a OME 2" lift is too big for 285/75 wheels?

If you want the tires to look like they are bigger than stock, yes. The only way to get that on 33's is to go with the stock height kit.

These rigs visually swallow tires. Here's the progression for most:

1) Lift 2" with 33's. Say you want to avoid regearing, reduction of daily drivability, etc. Tires look tiny;

1.5) Get sliders.

2) Raise front end a little bit to correct stinkbug look. Tires look tiny;

2.5) Ignore people telling you to just get it over with and run 37's. Say the words "I'm not messing with it" again.

3) Add super heavy clearance robbing expo bumpers. Tires look puny. Drag everything on your always non-expo wheeling trips;

4) Swap out to 35's. Realize you have a suspension that is geared to up travel for expedition use, but you aren't on expeditions. Tires still look smaller than you expected;

4.5) The number "37" keeps getting posted in your threads;

5) Increase lift, but keep same OME shocks increasing the up travel and have a suspension even more geared to expedition travel;

6) Regear to 4.88's for 35's. Tires still look smallish. You realize your 80 can wheel with the big dogs and that you were way more under geared than you thought;

6.5) Start talking only to people with 37's;

7) Go to 37's. Tires look perfect and wheel perfect, but they rub due to your expedition suspension and so you have to begin tuning;

7.5) Realize you should have regeared to 5.29;

7.6) Realize OME is a trap that you fell into 3 different times;

8) Finally ditch every OME component on your 80 except the steering stabilizer;

9) Buy high end shocks and springs and know how to tune suspension travel to keep the lift lower;

10) Sell your "bull bar" to the next guy with a 2" lift and 33's. Don't say anything about 37's until after it sells;

11) Begin thinking about that 2UZFE conversion once the kids are gone...

This will take about 3 years

Honestly, if I wanted a Cruiser for ski trips and mild wheeling, I'd sell the 80, buy a 1998/99 100 series with a factory rear diff locker (they are basically the same price now), and love the better fuel economy, power, and luxury every single day. They look good on 33's and the engine will handle it fine.

Not a question you asked, but if running up the hill keeping up with traffic to powder chase is the goal, the 80 just isn't the best tool on the shelf. You'll get floored by Prius driving eco snobs who think their car once shod with snow tires is the most capable vehicle ever produced, and that's really freaking irritating .

 

[Schep]

If you want the tires to look like they are bigger than stock, yes. The only way to get that on 33's is to go with the stock height kit.

These rigs visually swallow tires. Here's the progression for most:

1) Lift 2" with 33's. Say you want to avoid regearing, reduction of daily drivability, etc. Tires look tiny;

1.5) Get sliders.

2) Raise front end a little bit to correct stinkbug look. Tires look tiny;

2.5) Ignore people telling you to just get it over with and run 37's. Say the words "I'm not messing with it" again.

3) Add super heavy clearance robbing expo bumpers. Tires look puny. Drag everything on your always non-expo wheeling trips;

4) Swap out to 35's. Realize you have a suspension that is geared to up travel for expedition use, but you aren't on expeditions. Tires still look smaller than you expected;

4.5) The number "37" keeps getting posted in your threads;

5) Increase lift, but keep same OME shocks increasing the up travel and have a suspension even more geared to expedition travel;

6) Regear to 4.88's for 35's. Tires still look smallish. You realize your 80 can wheel with the big dogs and that you were way more under geared than you thought;

6.5) Start talking only to people with 37's;

7) Go to 37's. Tires look perfect and wheel perfect, but they rub due to your expedition suspension and so you have to begin tuning;

7.5) Realize you should have regeared to 5.29;

7.6) Realize OME is a trap that you fell into 3 different times;

8) Finally ditch every OME component on your 80 except the steering stabilizer;

9) Buy high end shocks and springs and know how to tune suspension travel to keep the lift lower;

10) Sell your "bull bar" to the next guy with a 2" lift and 33's. Don't say anything about 37's until after it sells;

11) Begin thinking about that 2UZFE conversion once the kids are gone...

This will take about 3 years

Honestly, if I wanted a Cruiser for ski trips and mild wheeling, I'd sell the 80, buy a 1998/99 100 series with a factory rear diff locker (they are basically the same price now), and love the better fuel economy, power, and luxury every single day. They look good on 33's and the engine will handle it fine.

Not a question you asked, but if running up the hill keeping up with traffic to powder chase is the goal, the 80 just isn't the best tool on the shelf. You'll get floored by Prius driving eco snobs who think their car once shod with snow tires is the most capable vehicle ever produced, and that's really freaking irritating .

Thanks Nay- I really appreciate your detailed advice on this! I'm not too worried about keeping up with traffic in the Oregon mountains it's usually in 'slow chained tire mode' when I go, plus the fj80 is paid for and can take the rock chips from all of the road gravel without making me cringe.
I think you may be right about the 2" lift making 33's look a bit small. I've noticed a lot of j80's with the stinky bug look- what is the best solution for this? It sounds like OME has a stock look kit that raises the rig and .75" over stock and replaces everything that the 2" kit would- any thoughts on that kit?
Do you have any recommendations for sliders?
Sorry for all of the questions-
Thanks again!

 

[n00g7]

The 35's look better, but the 285s aren't bad. The more aggressive looking ones mitigate that smallish look some too.

 

[vegastoy]

Lots of good advise in here. I think you need to seriously ask yourself what your ultimate goal is and stick to it! That will save you a lot of $ in the long run by not having to do everything 2 or 3 times. If snow driving and some light offroading is all you really plan on doing and you don't plan on adding a lot of extra weight I would consider 33" tires with either the stock springs or the OME stock height springs. If your keeping the factory flares I would do 295/75/16. They fill out the fender flared wheel wells nicely with no/low lift and they should fit in the stock spare tire location. The BFG K/O 2 and General grabber AT2 are supposedly both good in the snow (no personal experience). The grabbers are a little lighter which will help in the power department. Plus there cheaper!

 

[Nay]

Thanks Nay- I really appreciate your detailed advice on this! I'm not too worried about keeping up with traffic in the Oregon mountains it's usually in 'slow chained tire mode' when I go, plus the fj80 is paid for and can take the rock chips from all of the road gravel without making me cringe.
I think you may be right about the 2" lift making 33's look a bit small. I've noticed a lot of j80's with the stinky bug look- what is the best solution for this? It sounds like OME has a stock look kit that raises the rig and .75" over stock and replaces everything that the 2" kit would- any thoughts on that kit?
Do you have any recommendations for sliders?
Sorry for all of the questions-
Thanks again!

I'd get that stock height kit and run 285's or 295's. You can fix the OME stinkbug with taller OME fronts, but that's the slippery slope I was (sort of) joking about above.

But I agree with the post above - 295's seem right sized for a small lift visually when you want to stay more consevative. Don't worry too much about it...OME medium and 33" tires is really a great combo and a vast improvement over a worn stock suspension.

One of the first lifted 80's I ever saw was on OME medium with 295's and I thought it was perfect (and I had a 6" lifted Cherokee at the time). The tire size thing with 80's plays head games if it bothers you, but you can't really fix it with 35's so stay smaller.

I run Slee sliders. Bombproof and the step rails are perfectly designed (the most important bit IMO).

 

[ironbinder]

I have just done a OME (Old man Emu) 2.5" medium lift. And I have been reading lots of threads on tires here.
Tons of information. Almost too many choices.
I have a '96 FZJ80 with stock 16" wheels.
I am looking at getting 295/75-16's on my cruiser. I like Nay's comments about this size tire.

But hey has anyone heard about TireBuyer.com???

They seem to have deals that are too good to be true. What is the catch? Has anyone dealt with them.???
$644 for 4 tires. Nitto Terra Grapplers 295/75-16's ,,,,delivered to a local shop that will install and balance for an additional $68.

that is about $712,,total. That just seems so very cheap. Are they seconds? Has anyone here dealt with TireBuyer.com?

 

[jwilliams]

285/75/16's
OME 2.5" Full heavy lift with MAF 30mm front spacers

 

[sbrodacz]

35s or even 37s.

 

[Heckraiser]

265/75r16... ok, I'm the only one 31.5"
275/70r16 31

255/85t16 skinny 33's
285/75r16 "proportional" 33's
305/70r16 fat 33's

FWIW, 255 actually has a larger diameter than 285 or 305 by about 1/2" assuming the tires are true to size with that particular manufacturer

Other options:
295/75r16 just under 34" still fit in stock spare location, but will hang down a bit
315/75r16 about 34.5" probably wont fit in stock spare location, no doubt this size "looks" best, but as mentioned, has some tradeoffs in terms of performance/costs, etc.

There are also some funky in-between sizes available for 17" wheels.

I wish you could just order up your own size from a tire manufacturer. Something like a 265/85r16 34x10.5ish would be just about perfect.

 

[Nay]

There are also some funky in-between sizes available for 17" wheels.

I wish you could just order up your own size from a tire manufacturer. Something like a 265/85r16 34x10.5ish would be just about perfect.

Depending what you want of course, BFG makes the ko2 in a 34x10.5x17...

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Without re-gearing in the PNW I would say 285/75 on the stock wheels. Long hills/grades and elevation would truly require regearing or a super charger to go up more in tire size.

Or just resign yourself to always being in the slow lane and do 315's.

Not true learn your 80

 

[ironbinder]

Driving at over 4,000 RPM. That seems kind of high for continuous duty on that straight 6.
And in 2nd for extended highway driving seems like really pushing the tranny to work hard.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Driving at over 4,000 RPM. That seems kind of high for continuous duty on that straight 6.
And in 2nd for extended highway driving seems like really pushing the tranny to work hard.

All day long...do your research

 

[ironbinder]

All day long...do your research

Wow, really, I have always tried to maintain at 3000 rpm. or so for optimum hill climbing, and 2500 for flat ground. I find that range to be the sweet spot for optimal engine load. But maybe I'm wrong.