From my post - 18" rims not 16"
Also Real off roader dont use
P tires
I do add a few extra pounds when I tow
Tire PSI advice straight from BFGoodrich (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter CCuzj100
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From my post - 18" rims not 16"
Also Real off roader dont use
P tiresI do add a few extra pounds when I tow
The Mark Twain quote in the sig line of @LandCruiserPhil certainly applies to the OP. There are way too many variables for there to be only one correct tire psi. Heck, I mess with my tire psi before every extended trip based on cargo/terrain/towing/weather/number of hot pockets/etc.
I just got 275 70 16 ko2 shoes installed and put 35 in the front and 38 in the back. Yes im an idiot.
Rides good thus far. Im gonna use a tread gauge to see how they wear.
Rides good thus far. Im gonna use a tread gauge to see how they wear.
Let's ask Nicole.
LXColorado
2008 Pacific Blue
Wrong....
@Warde... so lazy. You're supposed to match the PSI to your planned speed for that trip. I'll be on the highway today - all tires at 75 psi!
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Don't tell me you're putting Shell gasoline in your truck!!!!
What's wrong with that?
It will make your engine explode. Just kidding. I was joking.
- Thread starter
- #51
There is no 1 perfect PSI, but this is for general road/highway specs OBVIOUSLY.
Any noob (like myself) realizes that we should deflate according to terrain however I wouldnt say its a good idea to go above what they recommend from the manufacturer that is, not me.
And regarding lower PSI, of course your rig will run "just fine" but you should realize that you're increasing friction leading to quicker tire wear on the walls of your tires and increasing gas costs and unecessary body rolling during turns.
Any noob (like myself) realizes that we should deflate according to terrain however I wouldnt say its a good idea to go above what they recommend from the manufacturer that is, not me.
And regarding lower PSI, of course your rig will run "just fine" but you should realize that you're increasing friction leading to quicker tire wear on the walls of your tires and increasing gas costs and unecessary body rolling during turns.
Inflation pressures should reflect the load (weight) of your vehicle. Over inflating your tires will cause the center of the tread to wear faster, while under inflating will cause the outer edges to wear. If you drive mostly by yourself with no gear, use lower pressure. If you have a family of five and a truck full of crap, air up. Personally I drive mostly by myself, with minimal gear in my truck, run 35 psi, and have even tire wear (BFG KO2). It isn't really rocket science. Start with manufacturers recommendation, and air up/down according to load, tire wear, and desired comfort.
TrekboxX
Supporting Vendor
Just another idiot here. Warm tires. Chalk test. It works. 42 psi for me at current weight.
Reading this makes me want to go see what I'm running. I haven't checked in a long time. 
This has been an interesting reading since I also just switched from the LTX to the KO2s in the OEM 275/70/16 size and am looking for info on what psi to use in my stock LC for mostly freeway travel hauling the family. Can someone point me to where I can find the spec sheet for the KO2s in my size for the various weight ratings at different psi? I've been searching online and all I could find is a spec sheet listing the max weight rating of 6000 lbs. at 65 psi, but not for other lower psi's. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #56
Whoa...first of all I will admit I can be a noob idiot sometimes alright everyone? Just take a chill pill and lets be real. Truly was not my intention to offend so many of you...apologize for that.
Looking back there were A LOT of pieces of data I left out about psi and my delivery could have been smoother, but we're talking about tire PSI, no need to get so defensive and take it so personal.
In my honest opinion, I do believe it is un wise to go off of BFG guidance by over 10-15 psi, that is a big difference on a 3 ton yota tank. I also have experimented with many different PSIs over the years and I e realized that it makes a niticeable difference on MPG, body roll, acceleration, braking, handling.
I would also like to hope that 100% of ppl in this forum would agree that a BFG rep is better to listen to than a 7-11 clerk, that was really idiotic to say
Also, I changed my tire size to larger 285/75/16 and BFG guidance for these sizes went down to 45 F and R so looks like Im back to being confused af again.
Do we have any legit and credible members who can give proper guidance for:
2000 Yota Cruiser
Near Stock Curb Weight
Road/Highway/Street/OnRoad
285/75/16 on OEM 16" wheels
Thanks all!
Looking back there were A LOT of pieces of data I left out about psi and my delivery could have been smoother, but we're talking about tire PSI, no need to get so defensive and take it so personal.
In my honest opinion, I do believe it is un wise to go off of BFG guidance by over 10-15 psi, that is a big difference on a 3 ton yota tank. I also have experimented with many different PSIs over the years and I e realized that it makes a niticeable difference on MPG, body roll, acceleration, braking, handling.
I would also like to hope that 100% of ppl in this forum would agree that a BFG rep is better to listen to than a 7-11 clerk, that was really idiotic to say
Also, I changed my tire size to larger 285/75/16 and BFG guidance for these sizes went down to 45 F and R so looks like Im back to being confused af again.
Do we have any legit and credible members who can give proper guidance for:
2000 Yota Cruiser
Near Stock Curb Weight
Road/Highway/Street/OnRoad
285/75/16 on OEM 16" wheels
Thanks all!
Cooper tires advises a 6 psi difference between cold and warm tire pressures on 4x4 tires. If after a 30 min drive your pressures are more then 6 psi over the cold pressure you need to add more air and vice versa.
Well...new to LT tires and just got the KO2 in the stock 275-70-16 size. Love the tires, but still confused about what air pressure to put in them after reading all the threads that I can find. Right now I have 45 psi in them and they ride great, with around 5 to 6 psi increase between cold and hot so the 45 psi seems ideal. However, in looking at the tread contact with the ground, it appears that the outer 1/4" of the tread block is not firmly touching the ground, which seems to indicate that the air pressure is too high (or is the KO2's tread pattern supposed to curve up in the outer portion of the tread and not be entirely flat?). But this contradicts with the Guideline for the Application of Load and Inflation Tables referred in some of the forum threads on the tire air pressure. According to that inflation table, my OEM P rated tires at 32 psi support 2480 lbs. but my LT rated tires at 45 psi only support 2295 lbs. so I'm now supporting less load than what the OEM tires at the factory spec'ed tire pressure are designed for. So am I supposed to air up based on the info from the inflation table, or air down based on the tread-to-ground contact, or stay where it's at because the 5-6 lb. psi increase between cold and hot is right on?
Just for reference, my '99 LC is pretty stock with no extra added weight except for the normal camping gear and a family of 4.
Just for reference, my '99 LC is pretty stock with no extra added weight except for the normal camping gear and a family of 4.
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
Your likely to get a plethora of different answers just like this thread, so IMO run them at what your comfortable at. Chalk test works well to show tread contact. I keep mine around 42 front 45 rear and am very happy with it. As long as your above 36 and below 50 you really can’t go wrong.
I agree. Have mine just over 40 and the rolling resistance that i felt when they were at 35 is much improved.
