Tire opinions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Shouldn't you be doing something about that 45 year old FJ40 rusting in your garage instead of harassing me and Dan? :grinpimp:

-Mike-

You mean like paint?
 
Last edited:
Those look like the same pictures you posted 8 months ago.
 
Marc,

Is this place a reasonably priced yard? Will they let you walk in and look at things?

It's run by a bunch of Spanish speakers but a few of them speak fair English. If you can speak Spanish, you'll probably do well. I came in looking for lug nuts and centercaps. Then I walked around the yard with Jaime and looked at a Sequoia and then 2 80s before we made it to the 100. I suppose if you asked the right way, they'd probably let you into the yard to look at it. It's a very disorganized place. I saw a bunch of 4Runners, a couple of 60s plus a lot of other small and mid-sized pickups and SUVs. Pricing, I don't really know. I haggled them down to $100 for an OEM wheel with a tire on it as well as 2 faded centercaps and 2 lug nuts, but he told me that for that price there was no returning the stuff later.
 
What colour interior? (...and yes, there is a reason I'm asking...)
-Mike-

Tan

It did not occur to me to look for the part we discussed when you were looking at my truck at the meeting.
 
It's run by a bunch of Spanish speakers but a few of them speak fair English. If you can speak Spanish, you'll probably do well. I came in looking for lug nuts and centercaps. Then I walked around the yard with Jaime and looked at a Sequoia and then 2 80s before we made it to the 100. I suppose if you asked the right way, they'd probably let you into the yard to look at it. It's a very disorganized place. I saw a bunch of 4Runners, a couple of 60s plus a lot of other small and mid-sized pickups and SUVs. Pricing, I don't really know. I haggled them down to $100 for an OEM wheel with a tire on it as well as 2 faded centercaps and 2 lug nuts, but he told me that for that price there was no returning the stuff later.

Where is this place at? I don't know every spanish word, but enough to get through the conversation.
 
On Broadway, east side of the road. Just south of Los Picaros Rd, which is a couple miles south of Rio Bravo.
 
Where is this place at? I don't know every spanish word, but enough to get through the conversation.

See if you can grab me the spring-loaded plastic "flap" that goes between the cargo area floor and the lowered tailgate.... maybe $20 tops.

-Mike-
 
I've got a pair of Nitto Terra Grapplers on my 04 4runner. I think they look good and as a mall cruiser and ski mobile they have over 35K miles on them. Will problably need a swap out this fall prior to winter (around 45K milkes probably). I rotate religiously. Cheaper than the BFG's when I assumed 30k miles for the Nittos and 50K for the BFG's. Worked out for us.

G
 
I have a 25% off Pit Bull tires certificate that I won in Moab. Could anybody use it? 25% off 4 pit bull tires redeem directly through pit bull tires valid until July 31, 2009 value not apllicable to shipping, handling, or taxes.

I'm headed for the Rubicon tomorrow so talk to Dan.
Also have a pinion seal 79/89 from marlin crawler.
 
I have heard nothing but good things about the New Goodyear DuraTracs. The best of both worlds:

-low noise
-high tread life
-good on road manners
-good mud grip
-good winter grip (snow stud capable)

much cheaper than the MTR Kevlars, and they look cool too.

I am think I will put these on my FJC.
 
Last edited:
I know I'm going to catch hell for posting this question, as I've seen others get the treatment for the same question. But I still value the opinions from you guys (and a couple gals) and will put up with the abuse to get a few constructive responses.

I've never had any tires above a Load Range C. The new BFG's are Load Range D. The sidewall lists a max load of 3,300 lbs at 65 psi. I know they are capable of handling a heavier load than P-metric or Load C tires and under all circumstances should be run at a higher pressure than the 'recommended' pressure of 32 psi with the P275/70R16 stock tires.

I've currently got them all set at 40 psi. The tire width (285mm or 11.2") seems well matched to the 8" wide wheels. There doesn't seem to be any bulging of the tread at the center like there was with my Load C BFGs (10.5" wide on a 6" wheel) that were on my 60 with only 30 psi. The ride is a tad stiffer than it was with the undersized P-metric tires it had on it when I bought it but still far more cushy than my 60 was.

I think the 100-series weighs about 5,100 lbs so the Load D tires are a bit of overkill unless I put a really heavy trailer on the rear. But I don't see that I'll ever do that. At least I didn't get the Load E tires.

I realize that you would normally adjust the pressure based on the load but I'm looking for a 'standard' pressure to run them at for normal, unloaded operation on pavement. If I put a few hundred pounds of gear in the back for camping, I might bump the pressure in the rear a few psi. I'm just wondering if maybe I should put another 5-10 psi above the current 40. What should I look for, visually speaking, to help me know if the pressure is too high/too low? Maybe I should just call BFG and get their recommendation based on the 'dry weight' and weight distribution.
 
I'd put a line of chalk on each tire and then drive around and then adjust the tire pressure until the entire chalk line is rubbed off. This should tell you that a good contact patch is being made based on your load.
 
Last edited:
Should I start at a pressure that seems a little high and then work my way down from it?
 
Should I start at a pressure that seems a little high and then work my way down from it?

I'd start at a pressure you KNOW is too high and lower your pressure from that. That will make the change more pronounced.

On concrete you could also put some loose chalk and drive through it (or very fine dirt) to see your contact patch.

Note that if filled with air, your tires will gain pressure as they heat up. So probably best to check it midday. This is less of a problem if your tires are filled with an inert gas (CO2, Nitrogen or Argon).

Dan
 
The best I've heard is to use the ratio of the max pressure rating of the tire over the max load rating of the tire times the max load you expect on the tire. That should give you the maximum tire life, mpg, and street traction combination - depending, of course, on how you weight the three factors... More pressure gives a rapidly declining increase in mpg and tread life but decreases street traction quickly, while a lower pressure means more rapid tread wear.
 
I had Nitto Terra Grapplers- they were the best- on road A/T tires I've ever had; don't recall how they were off- road but it was on the Tundra and I never got stuck.
 
He carries a full range of tires. If there is something that he doesn't carry, he'll order it from a place like tirerack. Our family has been getting tires from him for 20 years or so. So yes, I think it's all good since he's local. :D

It's just been my experience that it's worth a few extra bucks knowing the guy putting on your tires. And any time we've had problems (flats, holes, etc.) Kevin has gone out of his way to make things right.

I second the vote of confidence in Cedar Crest tire.

They've swapped tires on my 60's 3 times now (stock to dobermobile & BFG to lifted, then Mudbay'd n shipped AL rims & 31's to lifted rig), all at no charge. "rotation is free". I bought 'em donuts the first time. :D
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom