Tire Choice Help (7 Viewers)

[clindsay123]

Yes, I read, and understood the original post.

From what I’ve observed, you seem enamored with the thought of the FCS F5 light weight, and reducing unsprung mass, but seem to ignore the less than ideal offset, and limited tire options. Less unsprung weight is good, but bad offset isn’t great. Weight savings between load range C and load range E is limited.


Do your thing, but you asked for thoughts (and I implied experience).

P-metric tires are just asking for flat tires.

These vehicles don’t require load range E, but they’re much more durable than P-metric tires.

Load range C is probably much more appropriate, but have very limited offerings for a 33” tire, except for a 17” wheel. There are few 5x150mm 17” wheels, with a reasonable offset.

The 51lb 17” (285/70R17) tire, is 9+lb lighter that the 60-62lb 16”(285/75R16) tire, on paper

I think that you’re “losing the forest, for the trees”, by locking in on wheel weight, ignoring wheel offset, and tire weight/options, but I’ll bow out now.

Toyo 285/75R16 load range C:
View attachment 3935224

Pick your poison. Wheels/offset/tires/weight, but I’m using simple old school math.

Inexplicably, most auto manufacturers, don’t expect “enthusiasts” that push out the centerline ~2” per side, and use a BFH for clearance.

Thanks for your reply and I’m well aware of the tire side of the equation. I guess sometimes it seems like folks obsess on the tire weight and forget the wheel.

Luckily the FN 17” wheels seem to be very light and offer some great tire options at lighter weight as well.

Thanks everyone for chiming in!

 

[Patassa]

Unsprung weight = tires, wheels, hubs, brake pads and calipers
+
Partially sprung = all suspension arms, half shafts, shocks

Wheels are only a portion of our total unsprung weight, which is substantial if you've ever changed the lower control arms. Then only an even smaller portion of our total weight, which is quite substantial.

It's your money, do whatever you want, but I wouldn't go into that purchase thinking you're about to substantially change your driving dynamics with losing 40lbs of unsprung weight. This isn't a miata.

From Machine Design website:

"In general, it’s best to have a high ratio of sprung-to-unsprung weight. A higher proportion of sprung weight can then push down on the wheels and tires with more force, keeping them in contact with the pavement or whatever surface they are traveling across. Maintaining contact with the roadway improves handling and traction, and this becomes more of an issue for off-roading and traveling over rough roads."

You bombing down the the trails? Most of us arn't.

 

[clindsay123]

Unsprung weight = tires, wheels, hubs, brake pads and calipers
+
Partially sprung = all suspension arms, half shafts, shocks

Wheels are only a portion of our total unsprung weight, which is substantial if you've ever changed the lower control arms. Then only an even smaller portion of our total weight, which is quite substantial.

It's your money, do whatever you want, but I wouldn't go into that purchase thinking you're about to substantially change your driving dynamics with losing 40lbs of unsprung weight. This isn't a miata.

From Machine Design website:

"In general, it’s best to have a high ratio of sprung-to-unsprung weight. A higher proportion of sprung weight can then push down on the wheels and tires with more force, keeping them in contact with the pavement or whatever surface they are traveling across. Maintaining contact with the roadway improves handling and traction, and this becomes more of an issue for off-roading and traveling over rough roads."

You bombing down the the trails? Most of us arn't.

There are countless threads on this forum with members reporting better ride quality switching from E to C rated. Likewise, there are countless reports of acceleration / braking loss when going to a heavier E rated tire.

My current E rated tires need to be replaced so I am simply trying to optimize that transition. This is a daily driver / adventure rig for me so I am striking the balance.

How much tire pressure are you currently running? E- rates tires on these vehicles and lighter vehicles ride perfectly fine with proper pressure. Must chalk test to get proper contact, it's usually lower than you think!

Roughly 40 PSI

 

[Patassa]

There are countless threads on this forum with members reporting better ride quality switching from E to C rated. Likewise, there are countless reports of acceleration / braking loss when going to a heavier E rated tire.

Ride quality, sure. I'm one of them, though I will say with my Falken Wildpeak RT/01s, which are C rated, it took airing down and flexing the sidewalls for a week for them to "soften" up and feel substantially better than the E rated ridge grapplers they replaced.

Acceleration / braking distance should be measured, otherwise that's a very subjective experience report. I'd be shocked if someone actually lowered their 0-60 time or 60-0 time appreciably, but even if it's a few tenths of a second difference, that's a tiny percentage in a vehicle that does it stock in 10 seconds.

 

[Patassa]

My current E rated tires need to be replaced so I am simply trying to optimize that transition. This is a daily driver / adventure rig for me so I am striking the balance.

If you do end up entertaining 17" wheels and become convinced that a few lbs in unsprung weight aren't going to change much for you, I can highly recommend the Icon Recon Pros. The little bolts that push up against the bead add some insurance and reassurance on that trail that encouraged me to air down much more than I ever have before, which made for a much more pleasant off road experience and the grip on the rocks was phenomenal because of all the flex I was getting.

 

[GTV]

Wheels and tires are not just unsprung weight. They are also rotating weight which is as important if not more so. Every time you accelerate up or down your engine and brakes have to fight that weight. If you've ever swapped to lighter wheels/tires on a bicycle you can physically feel the difference, even though it's a very small percentage of the whole (bike + rider).

 

[Patassa]

Wheels and tires are not just unsprung weight. They are also rotating weight which is as important if not more so. Every time you accelerate up or down your engine and brakes have to fight that weight. If you've ever swapped to lighter wheels/tires on a bicycle you can physically feel the difference, even though it's a very small percentage of the whole (bike + rider).

Not disputing the basic dynamics, just not convinced of the measurable difference for most people/scenarios.