timing plate seal

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by fcgadget, Nov 16, 2005.

  1. fcgadget

    fcgadget

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    I've got a leak from the back of the timing plate. I need to remove the timing gear and cam as one piece if I understand things I've read here. Is it really as simple as it seems? Remove the timing cover, crank gear, oil pump and dizzy, and gently slide the cam out.

    Any cautions or corrections? This is scary sounding to me!
     
  2. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Remove the rocker shaft assembly, push tubes(rods), and cam followers(lifters) also...


    Keep the lifters and pushrods with there corresponding holes in relation to the camshaft....these are not to be mixed and matched later. They all go back in the EXACT locations they were removed from.

    There is no reason to drop the oil pump if it is working fine...and if you are carefull, you can get away without dropping the oil pan too...


    Yes it really is not that big of a deal.


    Good luck!


    -Steve
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2005
  3. andrewfarmer

    andrewfarmer

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    You'll need to remove the fuel pump as well
     
  4. 65swb45

    65swb45 Elder Statesman Supporting Vendor

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    Poser and andrewfarmer have covered the basics.

    I would add: ONLY USE A GENUINE TOYOTA GASKET FOR THIS JOB! The only thing more miserable than the amount of effort to do it is HAVING TO DO IT AGAIN because you tried to save a few $$ on the gasket.

    Once you see how SUPERIOR the factory gasket is, you will understand.

    Oh yeah. those 3 flathead screws that hold the plate to the block are a biatch unless you have a really big screwdriver with a blade to match the screw. A square or hex shank on the driver will also help, so you can attach a cresecent wrench to the screwdriver for more twisting power. ;)

    Good luck

    Mark
     
  5. andrewfarmer

    andrewfarmer

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    And remember to punch the plate next to the big screws after fitting to lock them.
     
  6. Cruiser_Nerd

    Cruiser_Nerd That 25 Guy. Moderator

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    Really not too bad. But a lot of work, maybe this pic at the halfway point will give you an idea. Leave yourself plenty of time, I didn't, and was rushing. When I went to pull the cam, the dang winch was in the way. I wasted a ton of time pissing and moaning about removing the winch, before it dawned on me to jack up the motor. :idea:
    cam.JPG
     
  7. petescoffee

    petescoffee

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    make sure your oil squiter isn't protruding out the back of the plate and pushing the plate away from the block.
    It is shown in the service manual.
     
  8. cruiser99

    cruiser99

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    What if I did jumble them up (for cleannig), what do I do then???
     
  9. LAMBCRUSHER

    LAMBCRUSHER

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    Will he need a whole new reground camshaft and lifters, or can he just have the lifters ground and reuse the old cam????? Do the location of the push rods really matter that much or is it more the relationship between cam lobe and lifter face?????
     
  10. petescoffee

    petescoffee

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    Perhaps take them to a machine shop and have the bottoms resurfaced?

    If you haven't reinstalled your cam shaft you cound install a new one as well.
     
  11. cruiser99

    cruiser99

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    May be I should add that I pulled only the push rods... did not take the lifters out. Could I just put the lifter back in and adjust the valves?
     
  12. LAMBCRUSHER

    LAMBCRUSHER

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    So the lifters are still in their bores w/ their respective cam lobes residing beneath them? If so, you're prolly ok to remove each lifter marking its location(cam lobe #)OR to reinstall the measured and straightness checked pushrods back into the lifter bore and then to install the rocker rail and adjust valves.
     
  13. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Yes, you will be fine.

    You did not remove the cam followers/lifters from the camshaft.


    Tap the push rods on something to make sure they are metallic sounding; ie, not a dull sound, indicating they are cracked and full of oil.

    Roll them to verify that none are bent.


    Install them and adjust the valves; first cold, then with the engine hot.



    :beer:
     
  14. cruiser99

    cruiser99

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    Any plan B for the above. For the life of me, they will not budge!
     
  15. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Weld a nut to them.
     
  16. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Your best bet is to just concede that the fastener will likely be ruined trying to remove it and replace it with the new torx-style fastener.




    *** FROM ANOTHER THREAD ***










    Yes.


    [​IMG]




    Yes, 90149-10001





    .
     
  17. cruiser99

    cruiser99

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    Good idea... where do I get new screws?
     
  18. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    See bottom of post 16...unless you are local, then stop over. :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2012
  19. cruiser99

    cruiser99

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    Dohhhh..thanks
     
  20. 78GroundUp

    78GroundUp SILVER Star

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    old post relive.... anybody know if these are stock/on the shelf at toyota, or special order?? Hex head torque. I am in there now... so would like to know... thanks
     
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