timing plate seal (1 Viewer)

[fcgadget]

I've got a leak from the back of the timing plate. I need to remove the timing gear and cam as one piece if I understand things I've read here. Is it really as simple as it seems? Remove the timing cover, crank gear, oil pump and dizzy, and gently slide the cam out.

Any cautions or corrections? This is scary sounding to me!

 

[Poser]

Remove the rocker shaft assembly, push tubes(rods), and cam followers(lifters) also...


Keep the lifters and pushrods with there corresponding holes in relation to the camshaft....these are not to be mixed and matched later. They all go back in the EXACT locations they were removed from.

There is no reason to drop the oil pump if it is working fine...and if you are carefull, you can get away without dropping the oil pan too...


Yes it really is not that big of a deal.


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[andrewfarmer]

You'll need to remove the fuel pump as well

 

[65swb45]

Poser and andrewfarmer have covered the basics.

I would add: ONLY USE A GENUINE TOYOTA GASKET FOR THIS JOB! The only thing more miserable than the amount of effort to do it is HAVING TO DO IT AGAIN because you tried to save a few $$ on the gasket.

Once you see how SUPERIOR the factory gasket is, you will understand.

Oh yeah. those 3 flathead screws that hold the plate to the block are a biatch unless you have a really big screwdriver with a blade to match the screw. A square or hex shank on the driver will also help, so you can attach a cresecent wrench to the screwdriver for more twisting power.

Good luck

Mark

 

[andrewfarmer]

And remember to punch the plate next to the big screws after fitting to lock them.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Really not too bad. But a lot of work, maybe this pic at the halfway point will give you an idea. Leave yourself plenty of time, I didn't, and was rushing. When I went to pull the cam, the dang winch was in the way. I wasted a ton of time pissing and moaning about removing the winch, before it dawned on me to jack up the motor.

 

[petescoffee]

make sure your oil squiter isn't protruding out the back of the plate and pushing the plate away from the block.
It is shown in the service manual.

 

[cruiser99]

Keep the lifters and pushrods with there corresponding holes in relation to the camshaft....these are not to be mixed and matched later. They all go back in the EXACT locations they were removed from.

-Steve

What if I did jumble them up (for cleannig), what do I do then???

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Will he need a whole new reground camshaft and lifters, or can he just have the lifters ground and reuse the old cam????? Do the location of the push rods really matter that much or is it more the relationship between cam lobe and lifter face?????

 

[petescoffee]

Perhaps take them to a machine shop and have the bottoms resurfaced?

If you haven't reinstalled your cam shaft you cound install a new one as well.

 

[cruiser99]

Will he need a whole new reground camshaft and lifters, or can he just have the lifters ground and reuse the old cam????? Do the location of the push rods really matter that much or is it more the relationship between cam lobe and lifter face?????

May be I should add that I pulled only the push rods... did not take the lifters out. Could I just put the lifter back in and adjust the valves?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

May be I should add that I pulled only the push rods... did not take the lifters out. Could I just put the lifter back in and adjust the valves?

So the lifters are still in their bores w/ their respective cam lobes residing beneath them? If so, you're prolly ok to remove each lifter marking its location(cam lobe #)OR to reinstall the measured and straightness checked pushrods back into the lifter bore and then to install the rocker rail and adjust valves.

 

[Poser]

May be I should add that I pulled only the push rods... did not take the lifters out. Could I just put the lifter back in and adjust the valves?

Yes, you will be fine.

You did not remove the cam followers/lifters from the camshaft.


Tap the push rods on something to make sure they are metallic sounding; ie, not a dull sound, indicating they are cracked and full of oil.

Roll them to verify that none are bent.


Install them and adjust the valves; first cold, then with the engine hot.

 

[cruiser99]

Poser and andrewfarmer have covered the basics.

Oh yeah. those 3 flathead screws that hold the plate to the block are a biatch unless you have a really big screwdriver with a blade to match the screw. A square or hex shank on the driver will also help, so you can attach a cresecent wrench to the screwdriver for more twisting power.

Good luck

Mark

Any plan B for the above. For the life of me, they will not budge!

 

[Poser]

Any plan B for the above. For the life of me, they will not budge!

Weld a nut to them.

 

[Poser]

Your best bet is to just concede that the fastener will likely be ruined trying to remove it and replace it with the new torx-style fastener.




*** FROM ANOTHER THREAD ***

Do the torx screws you refer to above replace the 3 flat head screw driver type screws in the timing plate?

Yes.

I can get these from Toyota.

Yes, 90149-10001





.

 

[cruiser99]

Weld a nut to them.

Good idea... where do I get new screws?

 

[Poser]

Good idea... where do I get new screws?

See bottom of post 16...unless you are local, then stop over.

 

[cruiser99]

See bottom of post 16...unless you are local, then stop over.

Dohhhh..thanks

 

[78GroundUp]

old post relive.... anybody know if these are stock/on the shelf at toyota, or special order?? Hex head torque. I am in there now... so would like to know... thanks