Timing gear won't budge - help (1 Viewer)

[marcfj60]

I know there isn't a lot of 100-series experience here but some general mechanicing experience might be useful.

I cannot get the timing gear to pull off the end of the crankshaft. I want to replace the crank seal since I'm already in there replacing the timing belt. I've got a puller on it. It's the type that threads into the pulley and a big center bolt that you turn to pull off the gear. But it's not budging. I've soaked it with WD-40 and it has sat overnight with tension on it but no luck. I was wondering if anyobody has any ideas on how to get the sucker off.

The last picture shows how the water pump was ready to be replaced. It's blurry but you can see the pink crud all caked up in the weep hole. I wonder if that leak cause a little corrosion on the crank under the timing gear and that's why it's being difficult.

If you're wondering what the blue towel is all about, that was to keep the stupid cats from getting up in that space overnight.

 

[alia176]

Mark,

I don't know if the 80 and the 100 have similar setups but my timing sprocket simply slid off the Cshaft. There is a woodruff key (or whatever that half moon key is called) that maybe giving you grief. I don't think you want to put any type of puller jaws on that gem of a sprocket; consequences can be dire. But I see what you're trying to do by using bolts to suck the sprocket out.

Try heating the sprocket with a propane flame thrower (while applying pulling tension) to break any bond it has developed.

For future reference, use a real penetrating oil like Kroil or PB blaster. WD40 does not have wicking properties; it's simply a water displacing lubricant. I know that doesn't help you now but ....

 

[marcfj60]

Yeah, the puller I'm using is the only type I would use. And I'm not going to put a pry bar behind it either. I've heard that the metal these are made of will just crack and fall apart. There is a woodruff key that indexes the timing gear and crank pulley. The crank pulley came off with very little effort. The service manual doesn't tell me to do any more than I'm already doing.

 

[sirenmoses]

paging beno, and cdan...

cuz my fire-self wants to tell you to just turn the crank over, but my human-self thinks that would be a very bery bad ting to do....

or is that vice-versa... Well, no worries, you already know not to do what I say.

 

[toymaniac]

One thing that might help is a little vibration.

First put a little tension on the pulley with the puller you have on it.

Then using a brass drift tap on it with a small hammer. Don't hammer directly on the timing gear!! The brass is softer then the timing gear metal so it should allow you to get some loosening vibrations in there. A dead blow or rubber mallet won't transfer any vibration.

~Leni

 

[sl33p3]

One thing that might help is a little vibration.

i recommend some old school metallica on at least a 12" sub you cheeky monkeys...

and x2 on something more than WD... PB can't hurt...

 

[pappy]

One thing that might help is a little vibration.

I like this idea. When Ryan worked on my PS gear box we had a hard time getting the pitman arm off. We put the puller on it. Put on tension. Then he grabbed a pair of BFH, placed one hammer on one side and gave the other side a smack. It popped right off.

 

[marcfj60]

Finally got it off. I soaked it in PB Blaster overnight. Then, I made certain that the puller was pulling exactly even on the two bolts that thread into the gear by threading them in the exact same amount. And for good measure I also warmed the gear up with my heat gun. It came off slowly but it came off. There was a lot of corrosion that was holding it on there. I'll post some photos up soon. Right now I'm just trying to get it all back together.

 

[evanz80]

Finally got it off. I soaked it in PB Blaster overnight...

Great news Marc! Two thumbs up for PB Blaster. I'll be using it (again) on a stuck project on my 80 this week.

 

[toymaniac]

Sweet, glad you got it off. If the crank shaft is rusty some emory cloth will clean it up smooth. Sand paper is usually to abrasive for a machined surface like a crank end.

~Leni

 

[marcfj60]

I used some green scotch-brite. It did a nice job of taking off the rust but isn't abrasive enough to do anything more than just polish it up.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Great news Marc! Two thumbs up for PB Blaster. I'll be using it (again) on a stuck project on my 80 this week.

Kroil is to PB Blaster as PB Blaster is to WD-40.

Also, it smells better.

Dan

 

[marcfj60]

Kroil is to PB Blaster as PB Blaster is to WD-40.

Also, it smells better.

Dan

How does it taste?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

How does it taste?

Not bad. It's kind of sweet.

Dan

 

[marcfj60]

Here are some pictures. First set is right after I got the timing gear off.

 

[marcfj60]

The next set is after I cleaned/polished the crank with some green scotch-brite. It was amazing how easily the gear slid on once there wasn't all that corrosion interfering.

 

[marcfj60]

And here's how everything looked just before I mounted the cam gears and put the belt on.

New water pump, cam seals, crank seal, idler #1 and idler #2

 

[pappy]

How did you get the timing gear seal out?

 

[marcfj60]

I drove an awl through the face of the seal. Then I used that hole and a flat screwdriver to pry it out.

 

[evanz80]

Very nice, Marc. A good learning experience, plus you saved some major $$$.