the tensioner is hydraulic, oil pressure drives it. Out of the engine it won't have much resistance.
timing chain issue (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jimbo92
- Start date
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powderpig
SILVER Star
I do not know why toyota went away from the ratcheting style, but it did.
I believe they did this for the quicker wear that style may exhibit on the wearing bits on both the guide and slipper. The newer style lessens pressure on the system, so slower wear on those items.
It is a choice.
Anyhow, I think you need to see if the plastic on the slipper is messed up(this is on the passenger side of the engine). This is the most likely the problem you are happening.
I have done the front cover with the pans off in the past( with the head on). You do take the chance of a oil seep where the timing cover meets the head. One interesting choice in the past.
I have even once removed the timing cover with both the head and the pans on(major fun time). I crossed my fingers for a while on this one. But the potential for leaks is great.
I also have done the front timing cover with the head removed(and the pans on). So either are doable. Toyota recommends to remove the head and the pans.
Very similar to doing the old 22r (18r, 20 r) timing cover work.
Good luck with your choice.
I believe they did this for the quicker wear that style may exhibit on the wearing bits on both the guide and slipper. The newer style lessens pressure on the system, so slower wear on those items.
It is a choice.
Anyhow, I think you need to see if the plastic on the slipper is messed up(this is on the passenger side of the engine). This is the most likely the problem you are happening.
I have done the front cover with the pans off in the past( with the head on). You do take the chance of a oil seep where the timing cover meets the head. One interesting choice in the past.
I have even once removed the timing cover with both the head and the pans on(major fun time). I crossed my fingers for a while on this one. But the potential for leaks is great.
I also have done the front timing cover with the head removed(and the pans on). So either are doable. Toyota recommends to remove the head and the pans.
Very similar to doing the old 22r (18r, 20 r) timing cover work.
Good luck with your choice.
I've only found the ratcheting style in existing 93 engines. I'm not aware of being able to order that as a part.
- Thread starter
- #25
powderpig:
thats great news that its possible to do it without removing the head, i knew it was possible on the old 22r's to do it that way and didnt see why it couldnt be done on the engine.
The slippers appear to be in good shape the slack is in the driver side of the chain. when i removed the tensioner and pressed on the slipper with a screwdriver everything seemed to tighten up a little bit (although that could have been in my head). If i do have to pop that timing cover off do you have any tips as to doing it with the head on? I know on the 22r you should use silicone to make sure it seals back to the head ok.
thats great news that its possible to do it without removing the head, i knew it was possible on the old 22r's to do it that way and didnt see why it couldnt be done on the engine.
The slippers appear to be in good shape the slack is in the driver side of the chain. when i removed the tensioner and pressed on the slipper with a screwdriver everything seemed to tighten up a little bit (although that could have been in my head). If i do have to pop that timing cover off do you have any tips as to doing it with the head on? I know on the 22r you should use silicone to make sure it seals back to the head ok.
I think he was saying you could do a full rebuild at this point for jjust a few bucks more. If you have the head off and the oil pan off, what else is left to a rebuild? Pull the crank, hone it, slap some new rings and bearing in it and you have a full rebuild. I think he was trying to communicate that you're only looking at another $200-$300 bucks for the full rebuild. The money is in the labor on this job and there isn't much labor in pulling the crank honing. The majority of the work will already be done.
