Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (1 Viewer)

[scottm]

Yeah I spun them, and felt for roughness under load. They're sealed bearings, so the seals can cause some drag. The idlers are only a few of the many bearings the serpentine runs on, can't change them all, but I did want to change these. Bearings inside pulleys tend to see more heat than say the fan bearing in that aluminum casting.

 

[dfrelich]

Ok -- broken piece is out

Posting here just to give you an idea... Some heat and patience eventually got this out.

Below is a broken piece from the housing.

 

[agaisin]

I'm doing the "90k" at the 110k. The previous owner had done the job about 6 years ago. I decided I'll do the other timing belt change because my truck is at 11 - 12 years now. I have a long trip scheduled in a few weeks.

Just curious - your rig has 110k miles and this is the second 90k Service?

 

[dfrelich]

Just curious - your rig has 110k miles and this is the second 90k Service?

According to the previous owner, the timing belt was changed around 60k, about 6 years into ownership. The PO was not able to produce copy of it. Said it was done at the local shop. I tried finding out via Lexus dealership to pull out service record, none either. Although the Lexus dealership was able to provide me all other services done to the vehicle. And it matches the PO paper records.

Even more so... the PO could not remember if water pump was ever changed.

The way I figure this, the truck is around 12 years old. The recommendation by the Lexus/Toyota is either 72 months or 90k miles. Which ever comes first.

I wanted an insurance for my 3 weeks trip. So it makes sense to go at it.

Now after working on my truck, it does look like the t-belt was done. The belt does not look like a toyota belt. The belt looks good but has a little fray on the side.

I dont know if I'm just wasting my money. But hey if it gives me a peace of mind, then I'll do it.

 

[agaisin]

I'm not suggesting you're wasting money, I was just thinking in terms of miles not years, but makes sense now.

Personally I've looked at all the maintenance tasks as learning experiences that largely apply to any vehicle I'll own so I've been all about the preventive maintenance as scheduled etc. I know some like to push the limits, but I applaud you for being on top of your maintenance. Your TB job may go on record - haven't seen anything like what you experienced. I assume you're still waiting on parts and haven't finished it yet?

 

[dfrelich]

I'm not suggesting you're wasting money, I was just thinking in terms of miles not years, but makes sense now.

Personally I've looked at all the maintenance tasks as learning experiences that largely apply to any vehicle I'll own so I've been all about the preventive maintenance as scheduled etc. I know some like to push the limits, but I applaud you for being on top of your maintenance. Your TB job may go on record - haven't seen anything like what you experienced. I assume you're still waiting on parts and haven't finished it yet?

No worry. I'm not accusing you of anything... I'm just saying things out loud.

If I knew what kind of job was done on the vehicle. I might have waited another year or two.

Yes you are correct. The job is not done. I ordered the part this morning. Should have it tomorrow after work. Close to $100 from the local toyota. Could have been cheaper with the guys that sponsors here on the forum.

 

[dfrelich]

A redesign or a wrong part

Decided to take off from work today to get my truck done once for all.

I picked up the part this morning and was surprised of a design difference. Makes me wonder if it was a wrong part that was in my truck or a redesign. I think the latter.

Additional note:

When you order new casting, please be sure to order middle bolt for it. The smaller casting requires smaller bolt.

FYI -- The casting fits perfectly. No leak and all. I ran the truck for 30 minutes and everything looks good so far.

Thanks all.

 

[OGBeno]

I’m not sure if the longer one goes on top or bottom.

The shorter one goes to the bottom, the longer to the top.

I want to kill the Toyota engineer who decided to put those two bolts there. I just pulled the skid plate off and got a 14mm universal on a long extension.



This is actually a very fun puzzle, as Scott mentions below.

EDIT: I was able to get the crankshaft pulley off using a chain wrench and a ratcheting breaker bar with no real issues using my arm strength. Putting it back in and getting correct torque was not an issue either considering this isn't the massive 1FZ bolt (305 ft./lbs vs 181).

Overall a pretty easy job as long as you are organized. Hell, I did most of the job with 2 1/4" ratchets and a few extensions.

 

[slimbuddha]

Overall a pretty easy job as long as you are organized. Hell, I did most of the job with 2 1/4" ratchets and a few extensions.

I thought it was a pretty easy job too... pick up parts from Onur.. drop off parts/truck with Onur... pick up a couple days later all done. Eazy-peazy.

 

[OGBeno]

I thought it was a pretty easy job too... pick up parts from Onur.. drop off parts/truck with Onur... pick up a couple days later all done. Eazy-peazy.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Thanks scottm for the write up (lots of good belt threads on here). I like your pulley tool a lot and it gave me some ideas but due to limited material on hand I came up with a quick hardware store pulley holder made from a 1-1/2" x 1/4" piece of HR steel. Worked just fine as long as the bolts held it against the pulley to reduce the bending load on the bolts. This design can also be easily used for other solutions due the the scissor action by adding holes as needed. I would recommend using high grade bolts 40mm long (M8-1.25). I got by with some un-rated stainless that I had on hand but was nervous about breakage. Pivot bolt is 3/8" grade 5. A little heat forming to make the ends coplanar would help with bolt bending but it worked with the flat stock as it was just fine. The longer leg allows it to hit both sides of the pulley though I should have left both long enough (but not too long or you hit the oil pressure sender).

Just another DIY idea to add to the pile....






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[APKhaos]

I popped the radiator out too, which made enough working space to get an air impact onto the crank pulley, PS pulley pulley bolts. They came out very easily with a nudge from the impact with no more than a good hand hold on the pulley itself. The crank pulley also came off with far less effort than I expected. Worst part of the job was unbolting the AC compressor to release the fan bracket. Those bolts are basically blind and tough to reach. Took me a while with an inspection mirror to figure out that there was no easy way.

I replaced the bearings in the tensioner pulley and the drive belt idler pulley. A little heat and they came out easily. Froze the new bearings and they slid in with very easy pressure.

Great writeup and pics.

 

[scottm]

I replaced the bearings in the tensioner pulley and the drive belt idler pulley. A little heat and they came out easily. Froze the new bearings and they slid in with very easy pressure.

How cold did you go for the bearings? I put a lot of bearings in things at work, haven't had much luck with any less than liquid nitrogen, the lunch-room freezer doesn't do it. I have a set of used 4Runner pulleys coming, hoping to put in new bearings, then maybe I'll try again on the Land Cruiser.

 

[APKhaos]

How cold did you go for the bearings? I put a lot of bearings in things at work, haven't had much luck with any less than liquid nitrogen, the lunch-room freezer doesn't do it. I have a set of used 4Runner pulleys coming, hoping to put in new bearings, then maybe I'll try again on the Land Cruiser.

Kitchen freezer overnight. Didn't need to heat the pulleys. Bearings pressed in with minimal force.

 

[crowdaddy911]

Wow great job guys. I agree this doesnt make you want to diy it. Wish I had your skills to work on your personal vehicles. You guys are awsum imho

 

[AimCOtaco]

I really like the screw method for the shaft seals, I tried using a seal puller but it was scratching. Careful placement of the screw and starting it with a hammer and I got the seals out no problem. Thanks for the tip, I hadn't seen that one before.

I also wanted to keep a tight seal at the water port but was shocked at the prices for the Permatex anaerobic stuff and spray, it was like a $35 set. I did it anyway because I don't want to re-do it for a long long time.

 

[agaisin]

I really like the screw method for the shaft seals, I tried using a seal puller but it was scratching. Careful placement of the screw and starting it with a hammer and I got the seals out no problem. Thanks for the tip, I hadn't seen that one before.

x2 on the screw method. I bought the lisle shaft seal puller thinking the 'right' tool would make it easy but same experience as AimCOtaco - the puller scratched and didnt even get the seal out cleanly. i ended up using the screw method on both cam seals and the crank seal. didnt think to use the hammer to get it started but that would have made it even easier/cleaner so te screw doesn't slip and scratch other things etc.

 

[scottm]

I also wanted to keep a tight seal at the water port but was shocked at the prices for the Permatex anaerobic stuff and spray, it was like a $35 set. I did it anyway because I don't want to re-do it for a long long time.

Kind of a bummer the Permatex that squeezed out around the surfaces looks exactly like Toyota red coolant, I may have to clean that off some day.

 

[scottm]

Update on this job: two people have pointed out that I put the timing belt on backward. I didn't even notice it at the time. Timing belts didn't used to come with marks on them, and I recently re-used one when replacing head gaskets, you don't really need the marks on the belt. The marks on the timing belt are handy for quick assembly, but make sure the marks on the pulleys line up with the marks on the heads and block. Since those marks lined up, I didn't think about which way the arrows pointed on the timing belt. In fact, I can't say for sure now that I used all the marks on the timing belt, but I know I lined up the pulleys correctly, and it runs.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Just cleaning up my photo dump.......

Another home made crank pulley tool variation. just what I had laying about, drilled two holes and ground the edge down to get at the crank nut.

Also if you're considering not changing the water pump.............this one was nine years old w/ 105k bleeding from the weep hole for the seal.