Timing belt alignment....

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You are at TDC now and this shows your timing belt was installed correctly. If this is for belt removal, you need to find out at what position the crank should be for your model. This will make belt installation goes smoothly.
Yes this is still the old belt on, and preparing for belt removal. Can you point me to a link (only if you have) for that fsm info as to what position should I bring the belt when I will be installing the new one? Or is is safe to proceed with the belt removal now? Btw I have the TKT-021 TB kit. Thanks and I appreciate the info.
 
Yes this is still the old belt on, and preparing for belt removal. Can you point me to a link (only if you have) for that fsm info as to what position should I bring the belt when I will be installing the new one? Or is is safe to proceed with the belt removal now? Btw I have the TKT-021 TB kit. Thanks and I appreciate the info.

I don't have the link for the info you need. However, your kit should come with a table with that info for all the models that use the same kit.
 
I don't have the link for the info you need. However, your kit should come with a table with that info for all the models that use the same kit.
Thanks, and since you mentioned it, I opened the Aisin TB box for the first time and saw this.

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Does this confirm that for an 06 2UZFE I have to rotate the crankshaft clockwise more for a 50° set aligning it to the eye of the driver side idler bearing? like the diagram (encircled in blue) is illustrating
 
Thanks, and since you mentioned it, I opened the Aisin TB box for the first time and saw this.

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Does this confirm that for an 06 2UZFE I have to rotate the crankshaft clockwise more for a 50° set aligning it to the eye of the driver side idler bearing? like the diagram (encircled in blue) is illustrating

Yes. This is mentioned in instruction step 6 as well.
 
Thanks, and since you mentioned it, I opened the Aisin TB box for the first time and saw this.

View attachment 2464105View attachment 2464106

Does this confirm that for an 06 2UZFE I have to rotate the crankshaft clockwise more for a 50° set aligning it to the eye of the driver side idler bearing? like the diagram (encircled in blue) is illustrating
I haven't used the rotate 50'degrees forward technique on my 05 non-vvt; just lined up the hashmarks as you did and explained in the instructions up to step 5 and removed and installed the new belt with no issue. Out of curiosity, if you rotated the crank forward as described in in step #6 (+50'degrees), where did the hash marks on the cam pulleys line up in reference to the alignment marks on the head ? Perhaps in line with the "T" ?
 
Yes. This is mentioned in instruction step 6 as well.
Thanks again @medtro .

I haven't used the rotate 50'degrees forward technique on my 05 non-vvt; just lined up the hashmarks as you did and explained in the instructions up to step 5 and removed and installed the new belt with no issue. Out of curiosity, if you rotated the crank forward as described in in step #6 (+50'degrees), where did the hash marks on the cam pulleys line up in reference to the alignment marks on the head ? Perhaps in line with the "T" ?
The hash marks ended up just past the “T” mark or according to the Aisin manual approximately 25° after TDC on the cam gear mark.
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Curious as you, I went on tried to search articles or write ups as to why it is recommended to rotate it 50° after TDC and found this: Timing Belt at TDC or 50 Degrees?
 
Thanks for that.

My rant: Where exactly is 50' TDC- just eyeball it lined up with the nut on the idler pulley.....Seems nebulous at best right? They went the trouble to place marks all over the place - but none in reference to 50' past TDC. Strange.
 
FSM will have you back it off (turn 45 deg CCW IIRC) before removing belt. This puts crank sprocket timing mark at top.This will come later after harmonic balance, lower cover off and crank sensor sprocket off. Reason for this is the valve springs pressure on cam lobes, are going to turn the cam. Factory wants this 45 degrees BTDC orientation as that happens, which piston(s) are back out-of-the-way. This is only cause for concern in the VVTi engine, from what we've learned.
 
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Thanks for that.

My rant: Where exactly is 50' TDC- just eyeball it lined up with the nut on the idler pulley.....Seems nebulous at best right? They went the trouble to place marks all over the place - but none in reference to 50' past TDC. Strange.
Made me stay up a little late last night trying to get that same answers to my ‘why’ until I saw the correlation of easing out the pressure of the valve springs when you turn it from 0° to 50° (basically putting the camshaft lobes to a neutral position relieving preload on the camshafts for manual adjustment if need be). I now wonder how they do it on race car motors that have higher valve spring rate like TODA valve springs plus higher profile race camshafts.. will probably geek around read and watch some more soon as I’m finished with this project.

FSM will have you back it off (turn CCW IIRC) before removing belt. This will come later after harmonic balance and lower cover off. Reason for this is the valve springs pressure on cam lobes are going to turn the cam. Factory wants that orientation as that happens, which piston(s) are back out-of-the-way. This is only cause for concern the VVTi engine, from what we've learned.
good insight, that’s what I discovered too why FSM recommends us to do it at 50° atdc -plainly relieving the valve springs pre-load and yes to avoid risking the cams turn because the valve springs are pre-loaded.
 
Question on timing alignment. If I am pulling the timing belt and cam/crank sprockets to inspect the seals do I need to be careful about not rotating anything? Or can everything rotate independently as long as the marks are all aligned on reinstalling the new timing belt?
 
With out removing the belt and all the associated work, you can pull cam covers to inspect cam seals, and harmonic balancer to inspect crank seal.
 
Looks like my RH cam seal has some oil spots. Assuming this counts as one that is leaking and should be replaced when compared to my LH one.

RH Cam
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LH Cam
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This questions was touched on but never explicitly answered in this thread: am I correct to think that my crankshaft and camshafts are aligned correctly if the TDC marks on each of the 3 line up at the same time? That time being once per 720 degree rotation of the crankshaft?

Meaning: the notches on the camshaft pulleys line up with the vertical line on the housing and the crankshaft pulley mark lines up with the mark on the crankshaft housing (at approx 2-o’clock position if it were a clock).

When replying: note that my belt has no markings, so I will not be able align belt marks with anything (it’s a long story)
 
Yes!

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Cranks sprocket notch, lines with nipple on oil pump cover.
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Thanks, and since you mentioned it, I opened the Aisin TB box for the first time and saw this.

View attachment 2464105View attachment 2464106

Does this confirm that for an 06 2UZFE I have to rotate the crankshaft clockwise more for a 50° set aligning it to the eye of the driver side idler bearing? like the
@OEMGUY0720 (or anyone) do you happen to have the full instructions that you posted the screenshot of?
diagram (encircled in blue) is illustration
 
Thanks, and since you mentioned it, I opened the Aisin TB box for the first time and saw this.

View attachment 2464105View attachment 2464106

Does this confirm that for an 06 2UZFE I have to rotate the crankshaft clockwise more for a 50° set aligning it to the eye of the driver side idler bearing? like the diagram (encircled in blue) is illustrating
@94SRUNNER this was my guide, I used the literature that came with Aisin timing belt box. Toyota’s reason why it needs to be rotated 50° is when removing the old timing belt, we want to ease out the pressure of the valve springs (basically putting the camshaft lobes to a neutral position relieving preload on the camshafts for manual adjustment if need be) and it’s sitting tight so when you put in the new timing belt the cam shaft gear doesn’t move.
 
The instructions say rotate it 50° so any tool to measure the angle is definitely an advantage in terms of precision work. When I did mine a few years back I didn’t have a measuring tool but I felt it got tight and snug as I reach that 50° point (I just eye balled it).
 
Does anyone have the details on the number of teeth between the L-cam/ R-cam & Cr lines the belt I have doesn’t have any details but it’s a 211 tooth there is 70 - 70 & 71 between lines and can’t get the lines to match the timing marks spend hours pulling hair out yesturday. After rotating motor 720deg timing marks are off so guessing I’m starting the belt on wrong lines.

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