Quoting my own post - Three years, no noise from the Hawk pads. They don't have the best pedal feel at very low speeds (think crawling) but otherwise I'm still very happy with this setup.
Time for brakes , opinions wanted
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i went with STOPTECH drilled/slotted/cryo rotors, front and rear, with their posiquiet pads. pads sucked....
I do not own a 120 series but I am thinking of redoing the brakes on all three cars 80, Crosstrek, and Corolla. I have been looking at R1 Concepts, they seem to have decent deals on rotor/pad setups.
@Vlad
Reviving this post and thread based on my own search for 470 brake upgrade;
Since I'm due up front and looking to better things...
As I read this, you're suggesting TT aftermarket spec'd for 460 via CB and keep 470 bits stock in rear.
Given age/condition gamble but Lexus OE, what's your feel on getting OE 460 take-off rotor and calipers from nationwide JY search (car-part.com) (spec'ing AZ, NV, CA for drier climes etc.)?
($30ish for rotor)
($50ish for caliper)
Regarding calipers, I installed a set of NAPA Total Eclipse remans on my GX. They have not been in long but the quality appears good and it stops great. They were around $90 each plus the core charge and were in stock locally. I'd go for remans as opposed to used given the small cost difference. I'm betting no one would notice if 470 cores were returned in 460 caliper boxes 
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If you want cheap and good....I would do the Napa calipers up front for the 460, 460 rotors and pads. Then just do 470 spec rears as the 460 rear rotor won't fit.
@Vlad
Reviving this post and thread based on my own search for 470 brake upgrade;
Since I'm due up front and looking to better things...
View attachment 2785165
As I read this, you're suggesting TT aftermarket spec'd for 460 via CB and keep 470 bits stock in rear.
Given age/condition gamble but Lexus OE, what's your feel on getting OE 460 take-off rotor and calipers from nationwide JY search (car-part.com) (spec'ing AZ, NV, CA for drier climes etc.)?
($30ish for rotor)
($50ish for caliper)
I got take offs from a 2013 4runner (same part #) and within a year and a half have ended up replacing both sides due to pistons seizeing. When the drivers side went I got a Napa caliper and it seems to be holding up fine. The passengers side has a cheap ACDelco (I think) option on amazon. $100 with next day shipping ans no core so I went with that for that side and its also been doing fine for a year
I recently did the Powerstop coated front rotor and ceramic pad kit from RockAuto. Part numbers:
Also did a couple of front replacement calipers from Autozone. After putting about 500+ miles on them so far I am VERY happy with the results.
| POWER STOP | CRK2421 | |
| POWER STOP | 16976 | |
| POWER STOP | PSLUBE | |
| POWER STOP | H976K | |
| POWER STOP | JBR975EVC | (2) |
Also did a couple of front replacement calipers from Autozone. After putting about 500+ miles on them so far I am VERY happy with the results.
I'm a big fan of Akebono pads, and I've had good luck with Brembo and Mountain brand blank rotors (no drilling or slotting).
Anything is better than the warp-prone OEM parts. I've smoked rotors on every Toyota I've owned, granted we have some steep roads in the PNW.
Anything is better than the warp-prone OEM parts. I've smoked rotors on every Toyota I've owned, granted we have some steep roads in the PNW.
@GXO (for your opinion-consideration):
I got 2 different quotes @ my NAPA, but one probably quoted minus core, also some bits in FL, others maybe in UT.. Sat I think there were a pair of rotors ansd 3 calipers ... in the States...
BUT my car quest has 460 calipers and rotors on the shelf...
Question: So, the 460 rotor is a little thicker than 470 rotor, but there's no diameter difference, right? Since 460 and 470 use same pads, is the only caliper difference accounting for the thicker rotor?
I should get this going (with another round of KDSS bushings) for the needles next month.
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It's a fair price. Yeah, the 460 rotor is thicker due to more caliper. That is why they hold up so well to 470s.@GXO (for your opinion-consideration):
I got 2 different quotes @ my NAPA, but one probably quoted minus core, also some bits in FL, others maybe in UT.. Sat I think there were a pair of rotors ansd 3 calipers ... in the States...
BUT my car quest has 460 calipers and rotors on the shelf...
Question: So, the 460 rotor is a little thicker than 470 rotor, but there's no diameter difference, right? Since 460 and 470 use same pads, is the only caliper difference accounting for the thicker rotor?
I should get this going (with another round of KDSS bushings) for the needles next month.
So I am looking into this also. The 470 and 460 calipers are identical except for maybe 460 are a little wider to accommodate the rotor.
But wont the 460 caliper have stuck pistons also if they are identical besides width?
You need to get 460 rotors with the 460 calipers, right?
But wont the 460 caliper have stuck pistons also if they are identical besides width?
You need to get 460 rotors with the 460 calipers, right?
NMBruce
SILVER Star
Wife has a 2015 GX460 and around 35k miles, driving in the mountains, the brakes will pulse just like on a GX470. I went to PowerStop Rotors and pads for towing and now they will go close to 50k miles.
+1 for Power Stop. Put a full heavy duty front and rear brake kit on our 470 and it drastically improved every aspect of braking performance. Had a few high speed panic stops since and surprisingly we have experienced zero fade. There is also zero brake dust as a bonus.
I replaced the brake pads front and back on my 460 with the same heady duty Power Stop pads and left the OEM rotors and surprisingly again the performance is pretty amazing. Almost no fade and no brake dust. Obviously I’m going to replace the rotors and possibly calipers but I needed a quick turn around to improve braking before our 5,420 mile road trip out west in the mountains. I have been very impressed with the performance with Power Stops. Braking down steep grades thousands of feet up in elevation was a breeze.
I would use OEM Lexus rotors, decent pads (ceramic) and be sure to give the lines/ABS system a good flush. Don’t replace your calipers unless they are seized. Maybe invest in some speed bleeders just to get the bleeding done faster. Invest in a brake fluid pump too.
My 2006 GX just had brakes done at 115k, all OEM. Pedal feels like a new vehicle. My 2003 GX (270k) pedal feels like mush mush but stops just as good as the 2006. Neither has anything other than OEM parts.
Flushing the ABS module could be a real pain, you may need techstream to get all the valves open. Have not personally done it.
Slotted/drilled rotors are a complete waste of money. This isn’t a racecar and you’ll just end up chewing through pads unnecessarily faster.
Stainless brake lines are also a complete waste IMO. Did those on my old 250k WRX with a full flush. Not that noticeable of a difference even on a car I used 100% for ‘hot doggin’ around town.
My 2006 GX just had brakes done at 115k, all OEM. Pedal feels like a new vehicle. My 2003 GX (270k) pedal feels like mush mush but stops just as good as the 2006. Neither has anything other than OEM parts.
Flushing the ABS module could be a real pain, you may need techstream to get all the valves open. Have not personally done it.
Slotted/drilled rotors are a complete waste of money. This isn’t a racecar and you’ll just end up chewing through pads unnecessarily faster.
Stainless brake lines are also a complete waste IMO. Did those on my old 250k WRX with a full flush. Not that noticeable of a difference even on a car I used 100% for ‘hot doggin’ around town.
In most cars I'd agree, but once you start adding bumpers, larger tires, drawers, fridges, rooftop tents, ect, the factory brakes are insufficient.
They're barely sufficient for the weight of the vehicle from the factory.
If you live in an area with hilly terrain, the factory Lexus/Toyota components will warp and wear out much faster than aftermarket components designed for towing.
They'll feel fine for a bit, but the pedal pulsating, pads wearing out in under 30k miles and seizure-prone calipers are all the reason I need to ditch the 470 brakes.
And to bleed the rears, just turn the car on. The fronts are just like any other car.
They're barely sufficient for the weight of the vehicle from the factory.
If you live in an area with hilly terrain, the factory Lexus/Toyota components will warp and wear out much faster than aftermarket components designed for towing.
They'll feel fine for a bit, but the pedal pulsating, pads wearing out in under 30k miles and seizure-prone calipers are all the reason I need to ditch the 470 brakes.
And to bleed the rears, just turn the car on. The fronts are just like any other car.
I installed a set of Power Stop braided SS brake lines on Thursday (except the two rear body-to-axle lines where the fittings are rusted - I'll do those when I have the time/desire to bend up new rear lines). My GX had developed a minor right pull when braking after I did a CV axle replacement, which gave me the suspicion that I had damaged the left hose when moving the steering knuckle around while yanking out the driver's CV. Sure enough, after the SS lines, the pull is totally gone. The OEM lines were all pretty soft/floppy after 14 years and 150K.
I went with the SS lines not as any kind of a performance upgrade, but because the new front lines were $60 at NAPA vs. $93 shipped from Rock Auto for all 6 Power Stop SS lines. So just $33 extra for all 6 new lines. The pedal may be just slight firmer, but the lines are definitely tougher and I think they'll last a long longer than rubber and be more kink-resistant (as I'm sure the GX will go through more CV axles/boots).
I went with the SS lines not as any kind of a performance upgrade, but because the new front lines were $60 at NAPA vs. $93 shipped from Rock Auto for all 6 Power Stop SS lines. So just $33 extra for all 6 new lines. The pedal may be just slight firmer, but the lines are definitely tougher and I think they'll last a long longer than rubber and be more kink-resistant (as I'm sure the GX will go through more CV axles/boots).
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bumping this one back up as it's the closest thread I could find... it's about time I dive into the brakes on the GX470... haven't touched them in 10 years but now that my son (soon to be 18) has taken a liking to driving it, it's now got some vibration that didn't used to be there. He tends to come in a little hotter than the old man...
Any new revelations on aftermarket rotors/pads? Was looking at power stop but I don't like drilled rotors for a truck that actually gets wheeled... slotted is ok though.
edit: currently looking at the EBC stage 9 kit, roughly $600 for all 4 EBC Stage 9 Quickest Stop Towing Brake Kit for 2006 Lexus GX470 - https://www.buybrakes.com/2006-lexus-gx470/brake-rotor-and-pad-kits/ebc-stage-9-quickest-stop-towing-brake-kit
Any new revelations on aftermarket rotors/pads? Was looking at power stop but I don't like drilled rotors for a truck that actually gets wheeled... slotted is ok though.
edit: currently looking at the EBC stage 9 kit, roughly $600 for all 4 EBC Stage 9 Quickest Stop Towing Brake Kit for 2006 Lexus GX470 - https://www.buybrakes.com/2006-lexus-gx470/brake-rotor-and-pad-kits/ebc-stage-9-quickest-stop-towing-brake-kit
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