Tie Rod End Removal Tips????
- Thread starter mattstoy
- Start date
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I have had luck with installing the castlated nut on upside down so the non castlated side is flush with the top of the rod end then hitting the nut hard with a BFH. Alot of times you will have to put a jack under the rod end after you get it to pop off so you can get the nut back off but this has always worked for me. Havent done it on a 40 yet, wish I was at that point! Good luck
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too many BFH's on this thread, get a tie rod remover tool
I don't like the idea of BFHing on my sterring components
That looks like it would work better if they took the castle nut off, first.
I had the same problem. But I broke down and got a pickle fork and everything worked great after that. And Heck if you dont want to pay for one, you can just go down to Pep Boys. They usually will let you loan one out for free
TRE removal old timer trick
old mechanic from the 30s taught me this one and
done this many times over seas when did not have a puller, heat.......AND could not replace the TREs but had to service front end seals....... loosen the castle nut just a bit to where it is flat with the threaded end of the TRE; put a jack under the castle nut with a block of hardwood and give it just a bit of upwards pressure with the jack; hold the ball peen against the female part with one hand then hit the ball peen with the BFH with the other...use eye protection as a chip might fly off the ball peen
.........combination of upwards pressure with the sideways impact worked everytime and the TRE threads were not deformed........never take the castle nut completely off as the arm/link in tension can go up with a LOT of force HTH
Lou
old mechanic from the 30s taught me this one and
done this many times over seas when did not have a puller, heat.......AND could not replace the TREs but had to service front end seals....... loosen the castle nut just a bit to where it is flat with the threaded end of the TRE; put a jack under the castle nut with a block of hardwood and give it just a bit of upwards pressure with the jack; hold the ball peen against the female part with one hand then hit the ball peen with the BFH with the other...use eye protection as a chip might fly off the ball peen.........combination of upwards pressure with the sideways impact worked everytime and the TRE threads were not deformed........never take the castle nut completely off as the arm/link in tension can go up with a LOT of force HTHLou
- Thread starter
- #30
old mechanic from the 30s taught me this one and
Lou
Now that sounds like a good idea. Problem is, I didnt read this b/f I cut the TRE off!
Now that sounds like a good idea. Problem is, I didnt read this b/f I cut the TRE off!
You could do the same thing as Lou suggested but use a smaller nut or socket just smaller than the remaining shaft size in place of the threads and nut you cut off perviously. I would recommend stuffing a chunk of carpet or coveralls or something over the top of the TRE as I have seen these jump up a few feet, that is why I always leave the nut on. Good Luck.
Gavin
old mechanic from the 30s taught me this one and
Lou
I am confused. My tie rod is located underneath the steering arms on my 40 (as are most that don't have some form of High-Steer). The castle nuts on my TRE's also point up. If I put a jack under the bottom of my TRE, I am just seating it further.
Am I missing something?
Where do you get that?
This is an OTC brand and I second this tool. Recommendations for this tool have popped up in other threads and a search should turn up the part number. I no longer have the number or I'd post it. Cost a few years ago was < $50.
Part # in this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/73145-otc-tie-rod-separator.html
Only a few bucks for a pickle fork. 1 or 2 smacks and your done. Been using the same fork for 20+ years. The fork can mess up the grease boot so the tool previously shown is better if you want to put together and take apart. Normally a one way street with tie-rods. Many times that tool won't fit but a pickle fork will.
Been using the same fork for 20+ years. The fork can mess up the grease boot so the tool previously shown is better if you want to put together and take apart. Normally a one way street with tie-rods. Many times that tool won't fit but a pickle fork will.
Only a few bucks for a pickle fork. 1 or 2 smacks and your done.
FWIW, I changed all the TRE's on my FJ62 and on my FJ40 and I successfully used that OTC puller on every one of them. I had no issues with making it fit, and the puller works great. It is as though this tool is made for Land Cruisers! (I do not own a pickle fork, so I cannot attest to their effectiveness.)
Many places have it. Google OTC 7315A and it'll pop up. Do a bit of price shopping and Bingo! Add it to your tool kit.
I loosen, but do not remove, the castle nut. Then I use the OTC against the castle nut. That prevents the TRE from getting away from me when it pops loose. PB beforehand is helpful, too!
Thank you much!
Pickle fork perfect good if you are replacing the TRE or boot, like FJforty said, it mangles the boot, but a love tap or two with a BFH and you are dunn. If you do not want to mangle your stuff, then the OTC puller is #1