Thought i'd give TBI a try on the ole 2f
- Thread starter badass
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in pipe sensor
Pegasus -Optional Tailpipe Clamp Mount for Oxygen Sensor
could this be an option?
either location should work I would think
Pegasus -Optional Tailpipe Clamp Mount for Oxygen Sensor
could this be an option?
either location should work I would think
dgangle
total rice
I wouldn't weld the O2 bung on the cast manifold. You are asking for problems.
Why not locate it in the super easy-to-weld mild steel downpipe (downstream of your leaky gasket)? I'm no TBI expert by any means and possibly I'm missing something here but every FI vehicle I've owned has them there and not in the cast manifold.
Why not locate it in the super easy-to-weld mild steel downpipe (downstream of your leaky gasket)? I'm no TBI expert by any means and possibly I'm missing something here but every FI vehicle I've owned has them there and not in the cast manifold.
That thing below the map sensor I think is for cruise control. It is definitely not spark control.
Oh and for the love of God please please buy a $20 dollar heat gun, a bunch of heat shrink in different sizes and lengths and get rid of the electrical tape. That stuff is definitely not a good solution.
Also rebuilt the carb, it is not that hard... Take it apart completely and let it soak for a day or 2 in a paint can of carb cleaner. The only really tricky part is getting the regulator back on without it folding under the spring pressure. Use a couple of small long screwdrivers in the 4 holes and push it down then pull one screwdriver at a time and put in the screw.
Joe
Oh and for the love of God please please buy a $20 dollar heat gun, a bunch of heat shrink in different sizes and lengths and get rid of the electrical tape. That stuff is definitely not a good solution.
Also rebuilt the carb, it is not that hard... Take it apart completely and let it soak for a day or 2 in a paint can of carb cleaner. The only really tricky part is getting the regulator back on without it folding under the spring pressure. Use a couple of small long screwdrivers in the 4 holes and push it down then pull one screwdriver at a time and put in the screw.
Joe
Badass, feel free to embellish this article with drawings from the Downey installation instruction sheet, particularly relative to mounting various components across the top of the firewall, and adding a second story to the glove compartment for getting the ECU up out of the way. By the way, I sincerely hope we've sent you the missing items by now???
- Thread starter
- #30
Update
Here is a pic of the throttle body with all of the wires exposed lol, i will shorten up all the wires and wire loom them, but for now i left them exposed until i make sure everything works properly. Any way here are the pics
Pic of the idle air control
Pic of throttle position switch
Blue and green go to each injector, does not matter which one, red and white (not seen) come out of injectors and tie into the pink wire coming out of the ecu module mounted on the firewall. Ecu module will be seen in the next pic and i will show the pink wire.
ESC Module
Pink black from the harness is tied into the red and white wire coming out of the injectors.
Every Pink black wire in the harness requires 12v when key is in starting and run mode.
Every orange wire in the harness requires a 12v constant.
The blue wire coming out of the esc module harness goes to the knock sensor.
Knock sensor mounted
Here is a pic of the throttle body with all of the wires exposed lol, i will shorten up all the wires and wire loom them, but for now i left them exposed until i make sure everything works properly. Any way here are the pics
Pic of the idle air control
Pic of throttle position switch
Blue and green go to each injector, does not matter which one, red and white (not seen) come out of injectors and tie into the pink wire coming out of the ecu module mounted on the firewall. Ecu module will be seen in the next pic and i will show the pink wire.
ESC Module
Pink black from the harness is tied into the red and white wire coming out of the injectors.
Every Pink black wire in the harness requires 12v when key is in starting and run mode.
Every orange wire in the harness requires a 12v constant.
The blue wire coming out of the esc module harness goes to the knock sensor.
Knock sensor mounted
- Thread starter
- #31
Map sensor with the correct plugin
VSS, mine is a bit different because Jim at Downey did not have any 2 pulse vss in stock so he sent me a 4 pulse with convertor free of charge, thanks Jim!
Where i mounted the o2 sensor and welded bung, i know s***ty welds.
Temp sender
Ignitor
close up of ignitor and all connections
Both run to the dizzy
Harness plug in
runs from ignitor to coil
coming from ignitor into coil
fat wire gets 12v when key is in on or running position, skinny whiteish wire goes to tach.
coil wire obviously goes to dizzy
Once again ignore all the exposed wire, connections, open cuts and what not, this is not final, i will be cleaning up everything! Here are the grounds from the harness.
This is the convertor that changes the 4 pulse the vss puts out to a 2 pulse.
The one that has wires going to it is a fuel pump relay, other is ac relay and not used.
green white goes to harness, orange is constant, black white ground, GREY RUNS TO FUEL PUMP AS POWER!
Like i said before all orange wires are constant 12v
and all pink black are 12v only during on and running mode.
VSS, mine is a bit different because Jim at Downey did not have any 2 pulse vss in stock so he sent me a 4 pulse with convertor free of charge, thanks Jim!
Where i mounted the o2 sensor and welded bung, i know s***ty welds.
Temp sender
Ignitor
close up of ignitor and all connections
Both run to the dizzy
Harness plug in
runs from ignitor to coil
coming from ignitor into coil
fat wire gets 12v when key is in on or running position, skinny whiteish wire goes to tach.
coil wire obviously goes to dizzy
Once again ignore all the exposed wire, connections, open cuts and what not, this is not final, i will be cleaning up everything! Here are the grounds from the harness.
This is the convertor that changes the 4 pulse the vss puts out to a 2 pulse.
The one that has wires going to it is a fuel pump relay, other is ac relay and not used.
green white goes to harness, orange is constant, black white ground, GREY RUNS TO FUEL PUMP AS POWER!
Like i said before all orange wires are constant 12v
and all pink black are 12v only during on and running mode.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #32
fuel pump and filter, of course this is not how i'm mounting it, just for mock up.
I'll have some more detailed pics tomorrow. I had trouble getting it to run. I literally spent about 6 hours today retracing every stinking wire to see why i had no spark at the plugs, found out i messed up something inside the dizzy when i removed all the weights and advanced mechanism. After i fixed it, she started right up with a little help and runs great!!
However, the dizzy is still one tooth off, so she only runs at full retard on timing and loooooow rpm, but i'll fix that tomorrow. Otherwise, revs excellent, very smooth!! Just want to thank Jim at Downey and of course the knowledge of mudders.
Oh, and i have a video of her running but wont post till tomorrow
;p;p
I'll have some more detailed pics tomorrow. I had trouble getting it to run. I literally spent about 6 hours today retracing every stinking wire to see why i had no spark at the plugs, found out i messed up something inside the dizzy when i removed all the weights and advanced mechanism. After i fixed it, she started right up with a little help and runs great!!
However, the dizzy is still one tooth off, so she only runs at full retard on timing and loooooow rpm, but i'll fix that tomorrow. Otherwise, revs excellent, very smooth!! Just want to thank Jim at Downey and of course the knowledge of mudders.
Oh, and i have a video of her running but wont post till tomorrow
;p;p
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Smoooooke on the water, fire in the sky. Smooooke on the water... Badass gonna fry.... 
Just yanking your chain man. Great write-up. Got it running yet? Really want to see it all cleaned up and running well. Keep the pics and updates coming...
Just yanking your chain man. Great write-up. Got it running yet? Really want to see it all cleaned up and running well. Keep the pics and updates coming...
- Thread starter
- #34
yea like i said after hours and hours of trouble shooting, i found the problem to be the dizzy, when i took all of the weights out, i put it back in wrong. Yes it runs beautifully, will have the video of me jumping like a little girl later haha.
holy crap give your truck a bath!... good work
- Thread starter
- #36
aight here is a video of her running, I had the dizzy in one tooth off, but got it fixed now. However still have a low idle, so trying to figure that out currently. Do these throttle bodys have manual idle speed screws???
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- Thread starter
- #37
alright guys, check it, i've been playing around with it a little today and have a few issues.
1st, runs rich as a mofo. Black smoke constantly
2nd, cold start no worky, won't crank unless i help it with pulling on throttle.
3rd, Runs great as long as you keep it reved, but doesn't like to idle, and if it does idle, 100-300 rpms. Not throwing any codes, haha
I haven't driven it yet because i just ordered the gas pedal cable convertor today from downey, so waiting for that.
Will the idle raise if i actually drive it??? I thought this is fuel injection and the 02 sensor is supposed to adjust the mixture automatically?? what gives. hmm....
Is there not a manual idle adjustment screw?
someone help out, thanks
1st, runs rich as a mofo. Black smoke constantly
2nd, cold start no worky, won't crank unless i help it with pulling on throttle.
3rd, Runs great as long as you keep it reved, but doesn't like to idle, and if it does idle, 100-300 rpms. Not throwing any codes, haha
I haven't driven it yet because i just ordered the gas pedal cable convertor today from downey, so waiting for that.
Will the idle raise if i actually drive it??? I thought this is fuel injection and the 02 sensor is supposed to adjust the mixture automatically?? what gives. hmm....
Is there not a manual idle adjustment screw?
someone help out, thanks
I have been doing a little research, as I am preparing to do the same as you. And, I was going to post a question, which actually probably belongs in the post about reading the codes, but it will probably get read and responded to here, and I think it is pertinent to your problem.
In reading about MAP sensors and how they work, apparently they are set up to look for between 16-20 psi of vacuum, and as your engine load increases or decreases, give a signal to the computer to either richen or lean out the mixture. If you are starting with an ambient vacuum of less than 15-16 at idle, it may be sending a signal to the computer to richen the mixture.
In the thread about reading and modifying the computer code, my thought was that it should be possible to modify the computer to compensate for the reading coming from the MAP sensor. Jim at Downey started me on this search based on a conversation about how their cam (which I have), tends to lower the vacuum at idle, and may be a problem
In reading about MAP sensors and how they work, apparently they are set up to look for between 16-20 psi of vacuum, and as your engine load increases or decreases, give a signal to the computer to either richen or lean out the mixture. If you are starting with an ambient vacuum of less than 15-16 at idle, it may be sending a signal to the computer to richen the mixture.
In the thread about reading and modifying the computer code, my thought was that it should be possible to modify the computer to compensate for the reading coming from the MAP sensor. Jim at Downey started me on this search based on a conversation about how their cam (which I have), tends to lower the vacuum at idle, and may be a problem
- Thread starter
- #39
ya i'm hoping that once i acutally get to drive it and install my thermostat so that the engine can actually get to normal operating temp, the engine will be better calibrated.
I figured out that i have to drill the hole where the torx screw is located to increase the idle speed. Anyone had success with this??
I figured out that i have to drill the hole where the torx screw is located to increase the idle speed. Anyone had success with this??
I'm under the impression you don't have a fuel pressure guage? If so do this.
Take the fuel return line off and put the hose into a bucket. See if it runs better. Most likely if you try to use the metal fuel return line back to the tank it is not big enough to flow enough fuel back to the tank and it backs up. Just make sure you watch the bucket. That fule pump flows a lot of fuel. It will fill the bucket up in no time. If the restriction is the problem just run 5/16 hose from the TB back to the tank.
If this works you will need to buy a t-fitting and run the line into the fuel filler overflow line. NAPA has the fitting.
If you have a fuel pressure gauge check the inlet fuel pressure. Should be around 12-15psi. With a restriction in the return it will get up to 20-30psi. Not good.