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Installed stainless steel brake lines on the 60. The brake line that runs on the right frame rail was a 10 foot length of line. After the bends there was about an 8 inch section that was cut off. I have two more sections that will go on each respective axle, they haven't been yet.
The cost was about $120 for a 24 foot section. One 10 and two 7 foot sections will do the entire axle runs.


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So 24 feet for the entire truck? Did you re-use all the fittings? Which flare type did you use? Did you reuse all the factory brackets and holes?
 
Matt, The 24 feet did the frame and two axles. (Vendor sold in that length.) It did not include the two brake lines and clutch line that run the fire wall. I would estimate that would be another 20 feet of line. When I was originally thinking about how to estimate the total feet for one run I used a tape and straight lined it and added 25%. That turned about to be a good rule.
Napa had the fittings in stock here in Indy. M10 X 1.0 IIRC. 10 new fitting will do the frame and two axles, that is what you will need. I reused the factory brackets and hole locations. I'll get a better picture later today. The flaring tool was a standard kit you can by at the store. Picture later today. Also, I did this when the body was off the frame, a much easier process over an assembled truck. When I was putting in plumbing for the truck (gas lines, emissions line and brake line) I reused some of the brackets for the gas lines but used new brackets for the brake lines.
Also, thinking about the two sections of brake line on the firewall that's radius'ed around a cylinder, all you need to do is just that. Take the line and circumference it around a comparable size cylinder with your hand. It's that easy.
 
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Here's the tool for making the fittings and bending. The kit on the left is all inclusive, and you'll use a 3/16 hole diameter. The device on the right is just for flaring out the tube.
I bent that tubing by hand and just used the channel locks to hold it in place.
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Can you guys give me some help. I can't remember where the black brackets go that are in the left of the picture. Thx.

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Getting all the cooling system squared away. New radiator, new clutch fan, fresh paint on the brackets and shroud.

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Got three out of four doors squared away as well. Greased all the window cranks and the locking mechanism, makes a world of difference.

And of course the Arakawa auto body sticker was taped off for painting.

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In case you want to replace the Arakawa sticker, SOR has them, but they may be reproductions.

Great work, as usual
 
Thanks Doug, I've got a slue of stickers as well as the carpet set in the queue with SOR. Waiting for the sale on November 27 for the 20% off.
 
Love that color. You should split that shroud while everything is apart. Working on anything attached to the front of the engine is much easier down the road if you can take off the top half the shroud and leave the bottom in place. It is well worth the change now.
 
Jf- Thanks. I've seen that mod but I don't think I'll be doing it. I'm pretty good at getting the shroud off if it needs to come off. Most of the time I just put the fan off to the side between the shroud and the radiator when needed.

I'm getting ready to put the two rear glass pieces in and the rear hatch glass. I saw a good video on youtube by a user called ChrisFix. He's a great presenter! He doesn't repeat words that get to be annoying like 'and' 'um' nor does he stumble all over himself. His other videos are great to watch also.
 
I found a website that offers the OEM plastic wiring harness straps. I was pretty stoked to find them.

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I need a little help fellows. Want to make sure my coil is hooked up correctly. Where does the end of the grounding strap go to for the stock location?
Thanks for the help.

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What is your website source for the OEM plastic harness straps?
 
Think that that line is a ground and goes to the same grounding point that is by the battery... check the length and see.
 

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