This item is no longer available - Cummins 2.8 Install

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Frame to be used is the '85. After I got all the components on the frame that I needed, mounts and boxing the rear end, I took it to the clearer here in Indy. I think I had some pics in the prior post. Then over Turkey Day I took it to a galvanizer in Muncie, IN still sick BTW. The entire process took a longer time to complete only because it was the holiday and I was last in the queue. Astonishingly enough the cost of the entire process was only $100. Way this process instead of painting it from like an Eastwood internal frame painting? Well peace of mind. This frame will never rust on the inside in my life time.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Now there are a couple things that you have to address if you're doing this.

1. The frame is dipped in the solution which is at a high temperature. The solution gets into every void and the company has to worry about voids exploding once it comes out of the process and cools. Therefore this company asked to drill some wholes for the void areas.

2. Bolt holes. Either you'll do what I did and tap all the holes or you can use gas and burn the material out with low heat or have donor bolts for all the holes. If you go with gas and the burning method there a product called 'CoolGal' that you can use to get the small area around the bolt wholes that will burn off.

 

[OGBeno]

Nice.

 

[brian]

Now there are a couple things that you have to address if you're doing this.

1. The frame is dipped in the solution which is at a high temperature.

if it's anything like the hot dipping outfit near me, the temp is 850*F. it stays in the dip till the frame heats up to 850 as well.
the outfit we use at work, doesn't like doing frames. at that temp it will stress relieve it, the down side is the thing could end up looking like a pretzel.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Wow. I really suck at updating. I'm going to try and start with updates from my phone as the process goes on and see it that's better.

In the mean time here's a fast forward of the progress. As you remember the body was in good condition but with two minor abrasions in the rear quarters, both. So I called the boys at Cruiseryard and bought two good quaters that I could work with.

There were a lot of spot welds that had to be separated, on four panels.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Next at bat was the upper cowl in which the windshield rest in and the starboard side A pillar. I salvaged the two pieces from my '83 donor 60.

Separating the upper cowl was more difficult in my head as I was thinking 'Da Faq'. How am I going to do this. 'Just do it' was the idiom I came up with.

In the last picture you can see where the sun hits the inner cowl from from all the years of being outside. Before I welded it back into place I primed and paint at least 4 to 5 coats.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Here's the harvested A pillar . There are three pieces: inner, outer and rain rail. I was really difficult to weld right where the rain rail meets the outer member but, pealing back the rain rail and seam sealing will get you to a water tight seal. Additionally I'm going to use Eastwood's inner frame rail paint to prevent rust from moisture on the inside with two small drill holes.

 

[TLC Norway]

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Here are the panels on the '85.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

There was two welding areas on the body (no pictured) that I cut my teeth on learning to spot weld 22 gauge steel with. Let me just say you need a good working welder and the right setup. Since my welder was in storage I used my buddies. His Miller would surge in power and heat up the area of weld that I was working with. You can see my frustration on the first page of the thread. After I got my tank and welder out of storage and set in up to the gauge of steel I was working with it was much much easier.

Here are some pics with my new 10~18 Canon lens.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Rear quarters out.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

I'll skip over the body work and just show a couple images. As you know it's a long process.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

As payment for using the area in the shop I help my buddy with projects. He is in the chimney business and does not shy away from any problem or idea. This is his wood boiler to heat the house AND shop in the winter months. I help him set the boiler in place and run the lines.

The boiler has two fresh air blowers that blow from the top and bottom, a very efficient process. The water is heated to about 178 and runs to the shop at a 30 foot run and to the house with about a 350 foot run. The lines only drop about 1 degree per hundred foot. The is a coil that runs in the house HVAC system and an open coil that runs the shop.

 

[micruz60]

Geothermal heat pump too? Or just wood burning?
Good work on the cruiser.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Geothermal heat pump too? Or just wood burning?
Good work on the cruiser.

Just wood.

 

[Joe_E]

Dang
You made the outdoor burner too? Nice.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

pics of more repairs and painting of the lower cowl.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Dang
You made the outdoor burner too? Nice.

Joe, No I did not build the burner, my buddy did. I helped with a couple ideas and placement of the unit but by the time I arrived home and got the 60 out of storage to start on the project he already had the unit started.

I just went through your 1949 images of your restoration on Blue. Wow, thanks for uploading them. There are a few that will come in handy. Like you I have a need for that Emissions tube #3, it's really corroded.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

So for the sound deadening I used Lizard Skin. This setup was about $500 (their Sq.ft. calc) give or take from Summit and with a borrowed gun was pretty easy to apply. Clean my was not to nice though. The nozzle opening was about 1/4 in so it sprays on splattery. I found myself putting two coats on for the SC (Sound) and one coat for Ceramic (IC). I did the entire floor, hood and tailgate.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Ladies and gentlemen, the inside of your FJ60 gas tank.