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It appears the venting for each side of the tank is designed for when you're driving; acceleration, braking, left turn,and right turn.

The plastic emissions tank that's inside the body will deliver fuel back into its fall location.

There is a line for the emissions that runs up to the charcoal tank and the large line in the center of the fuel block is for the gas tank full indication that runs back up into the nozzle when your tank is full.
 
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Ladies and gentlemen, the inside of your FJ60 gas tank.

Ticking time bombs. Every last one of them....

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Body has been back from paint for about two weeks. Because I had 21 individual parts and the body shop was pretty small it took a week and a half to paint everything. The body shop was only about a mile away so the stand didn't have to be that fortified. The back is on a furniture dolly with jack stands ratchet strapped and zip tied to the aft most body mounts. Pretty redneck is you ask me.
I went with a cream/ivory matte color. I did not want any gloss what so every. I'm keeping the brown interior color from the '83. I like it over the blue which I have.
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That's awesome. My longest trip was NY to Fairbanks and back on my Vstrom. Talk about sore ass. The 990 is one of my favorite bikes
 
That was a spare tank that was from the '85 60. It sat for a couple years in IN and with our seasons it accumulated moisture over and over. The tank from the '83 is still in good condition and usable, however I'm sourcing a better tank for this restoration. My restoration is by no means a full restoration it's going to be a daily driver. Where parts are needed to be new I'll dish out the cash. But if a part is functional and usable I'll just get the rust off/neutralize and prime and paint. Or make it, like the Stainless Steel brake lines that are on right now.
 
Got a bunch of items zinc plated. Rear hatch is on and hardware is too.

Plus I discovered that I hard to cut out the old brace. Not because of the galvanizing process but because I made a miscalculation with the placement. It's all back together now.

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Zinc plating is a special process for a vehicle that is 30 plus years old. The years of weather and rust add up and if you're not in the know about how to deal with it then it will come out looking dull. The part I'm holding in my hand was rusted really badly. It was sand blasted however the other parts were media blasted. The reason a part looks really shiny when it's new is because of the metal finish. It's flat and smooth then plated which gives it a great shine. When you introduce an abrasive to metal to remove the rust the finish is not going to look the same as a brand new stamped part. If your part is not rusted I would suggest cleaning it with soap and water (after a degreasing) and then take it to the plater.
The cost for me in Indianapolis was $100 for 27 individual pieces. This included two hood latches, the charcoal canister bracket, the gas filler neck from the body to the tank and an assortment of smaller pieces. I'm sure you can find a plater closer in your area, just google it. Or if you're old like me you use a book that has a bunch of numbers and name it in.
 
So because of the frame repair on the A pillar and the rear quarter panel I decided to put some rust prevention on the inside of the weld. Don't want moisture/humidity to get in there and rust from the inside out. I used Eastwoods internal frame coating. The kit comes with a nozzle that you can use to put in an opening and run it down the length of the void and spray. As you can see from the picture it dripped out from the cracks where the seams are. It's probably a good idea to run some brake cleaner through the nozzle and save it. The sprayhead is pretty universal with other paint cans.
My application was the above-mentioned areas, plus inside of the rocker panels on both sides, and all the ribs on the underside of the body where the tank sets. The two cans that I bought accomplished all that.
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