Things to check while transmission is removed? (1 Viewer)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Sorry for the thread hijack, but I'm looking for this part on Mcmaster Carr and I'm not sure i'm finding the right one, does anyone have a specific reference? Thanks!

For the breather? You don’t need to get so fancy. Go to Ace and buy a lawn mower filter, add it to a stretch of hose and attach to a fitting that can thread into the transmission. @Cruiserdrew (he wrote in in my thread sorta recently but a number of pages back from the last) or others can tell you the size and pitch.

 

[Chad717]

Yeah for the breather I need the size and pitch i guess. I'm not gonna route it to the transmission I'm gonna do like @OSS said and route a breather line up to the engine compartment.

 

[OSS]

@Chad717

Here's the parts I used.
The transfer case breather hole was tapped out to 1/4" NPT. Then a adapter was screwed in, then the elbow & ARB tubing fitting.
I used the ARB differential breather kit that has a nice tubing fitting, big tubing, and a fancy breather filter at the end that looks cool.
Yeah there are definitely cheaper ways to do it but I wanted to do it fancy.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah for the breather I need the size and pitch i guess. I'm not gonna route it to the transmission I'm gonna do like @OSS said and route a breather line up to the engine compartment.

“From” the transmission I meant.

 

[Chad717]

Thanks @OSS !

 

[g-man]

What seals are you talking about? And why isn't it good for long term use?

The seal that leaks causing gear oil migration is inside the transfer case where the output shaft of the trans enters the front 1/2 of the transfer case.

Fel is right on...the bypass hose is a temp fix for a leaking seal. but back to the O.P.'s original question of things to do.

1. rebuild the transfer case. It has to come out with the transmission anyway, might as well rebuild it.

2. get the flywheel surfaced...about $50 at NAPA

3. replace the pilot and throw out bearing. Throw out bearing may come with the clutch kit, not sure about the pilot bearing.

4. Inspect the rubber boot and replace if necessary at the clutch slave where the fork goes in the bell housing,

5. replace the RMS if you are leaking any MOTOR oil at the back of the motor. and it is a good idea to drop the oil pan, remove the crank bearing retainer at the rear and PLACE the RMS...instead of trying to drive it in and tear the inner lip on it. If you do this you'll want to get another oil pan gasket and some Fipg (aka toyota rtv) while your oil pan is off clean the sludge off the bottom and check to make sure the pick screen is clear on the oil pump.

 

[findtherightlin]

The seal that leaks causing gear oil migration is inside the transfer case where the output shaft of the trans enters the front 1/2 of the transfer case.

Fel is right on...the bypass hose is a temp fix for a leaking seal. but back to the O.P.'s original question of things to do.

1. rebuild the transfer case. It has to come out with the transmission anyway, might as well rebuild it.

2. get the flywheel surfaced...about $50 at NAPA

3. replace the pilot and throw out bearing. Throw out bearing may come with the clutch kit, not sure about the pilot bearing.

4. Inspect the rubber boot and replace if necessary at the clutch slave where the fork goes in the bell housing,

5. replace the RMS if you are leaking any MOTOR oil at the back of the motor. and it is a good idea to drop the oil pan, remove the crank bearing retainer at the rear and PLACE the RMS...instead of trying to drive it in and tear the inner lip on it. If you do this you'll want to get another oil pan gasket and some Fipg (aka toyota rtv) while your oil pan is off clean the sludge off the bottom and check to make sure the pick screen is clear on the oil pump.

Alright, I was planning on getting the flywheel resurfaced when I do the clutch. The kit I ordered comes with a throw out and pilot bearing so I should be good there. I'll have to look for the rubber boots you're talking about at the clutch slave..... My oil pan gasket is leaking from the front so I have another one of those on the way as well. Might as well do the rear main if it's easier with the pan dropped. As far as rebuilding the transfer case, how big of a job is that? Do I need any special tools like a press or bearing puller? I've done everything so far with basic hand tools. Any suggestions as to where I could get a good gasket set for the transfer case? Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[g-man]

RMS will be fairly easy if you already have the pan off. Just two bolts and the bearing retainer comes off. Make sure the bearings don't fall off and hit the floor. While you're there you can inspect the bearings for wear. Mine at almost 300k had no obvious wear. Wear means your seeing the brass on the inner part that contacts the crank. Here is some info from the 2f engine FSM. Make sure that if the bearings come out you put them back with the oil holes in the correct position. Scratch all that ...the only bearing that can come out with the crank still in is the lower half ...and there is only one way to get it back in place because of the notches at the end. Also notice mention of liquid sealant (fig 154) in the corners, and torque specs for the cap bolts. 76-94 ft lbs.

 

[g-man]

rubber boot for clutch fork not terribly critical but while your in there you can put one in if it's missing. Just keeps dust out.

 

[g-man]

The transfer case rebuild is really not all that hard. A press is very helpful in getting some of the bearings out. Georg at Valley hybrids has a transfer case rebuild kit. And he has a video out that goes over the process of rebuilding the t'case. Also my experience with him is that he answered the phone and helped me when I had a question. The entire process is outlined in the 84 body and chassis FSM.

 

[Chad717]

The transfer case rebuild is really not all that hard. A press is very helpful in getting some of the bearings out. Georg at Valley hybrids has a transfer case rebuild kit. And he has a video out that goes over the process of rebuilding the t'case. Also my experience with him is that he answered the phone and helped me when I had a question. The entire process is outlined in the 84 body and chassis FSM.

Second this. I found the transfer case rebuild to be rather enjoyable. I bought the kit from Georg and I called him once with a silly question and he was more than helpful and patient with me, it is well worth doing if you’ve already got it out.

 

[findtherightlin]

rubber boot for clutch fork not terribly critical but while your in there you can put one in if it's missing. Just keeps dust out.

Got it. I didn't see one when I removed everything..... Seems like the PO cut a lot of corners when putting this vehicle together. Tons of mismatched bolts/screws and some things completely missing.

 

[findtherightlin]

The transfer case rebuild is really not all that hard. A press is very helpful in getting some of the bearings out. Georg at Valley hybrids has a transfer case rebuild kit. And he has a video out that goes over the process of rebuilding the t'case. Also my experience with him is that he answered the phone and helped me when I had a question. The entire process is outlined in the 84 body and chassis FSM.

This brings me to another question, my body is a 12/1983 but the PO said he had a donor vehicle for parts. I'm pretty sure the trans/t case is from a later model as I have a split case. Where can I find the date code on the trans and t case so I can identify what I've got?

 

[4Cruisers]

All FJ60s have a split transfer case. Measure the OD of the idler shaft (you can see it at the rear of the case) to see if it's 34mm or 38mm. That'll help narrow it down. There should be a date code stamped on the case, the location varies. On the split case I'm currently rebuilding it's stamped along the edge of the rear case half alongside the PTO cover opening. It's stamped 4J3175, "4" is for 1984, "J" is for October (the 10th month), and "3175" is the sequence number for that month.

 

[g-man]

A parts cleaner is helpful for the case but if not you can use part cleaner in a spray can...several cans, like a 12 pack of cans. I saved my original copper gaskets for the split case because they seem reusable and more heavy duty than the paper gaskets that come in the kit. They didn't go back in the case but I have them as spares. I have gotten into the habit of saving oem parts that are removed just in case the aftermarket stuff doesn't hold up. I did have to go back and reuse one of them on the rear output shaft rear bearing retainer when I went back in to adjust the shims. If you need some shims PM me. If you have original copper without a lot of rtv on the case that may be an indication that it has never been open. But if it has RTV on the copper someone has opened it before...but that doesn't mean it was rebuilt. Sometimes a case is opened if it has been moved to another transmission.

 

[FJ60Seth]

Pull the tcase & transmission together & take a lot of pictures as you dissemble the tcase.

 

[MarkBC]

I come from the world of 3rd gen 4runners so I'm not sure if this is applicable here but you want GL4 fluid in the transmission, and GL5 in any gearbox. GL5 has sulphur in it which eats away synchros so it will wreck your transmission making it progressively harder to shift. So you don't want any oil from the transfer case going back into the transmission. But maybe newer GL5's have lower sulphur content. Regardless, I only want nice fluid in the transmission so I'll make this mod, thanks for the heads up. Examples of GL4 are Redline MT90 and Amsoil manual gearbox oils.

 

[findtherightlin]

I come from the world of 3rd gen 4runners so I'm not sure if this is applicable here but you want GL4 fluid in the transmission, and GL5 in any gearbox. GL5 has sulphur in it which eats away synchros so it will wreck your transmission making it progressively harder to shift. So you don't want any oil from the transfer case going back into the transmission. But maybe newer GL5's have lower sulphur content. Regardless, I only want nice fluid in the transmission so I'll make this mod, thanks for the heads up. Examples of GL4 are Redline MT90 and Amsoil manual gearbox oils.

I was told by my old mechanic that I should be running 80w90 gear oil in my trans..... I'm using the masterpros stuff from O'Reilly and it says it can be used for applications calling for GL-2, 3, 4, or 5 but the bottle says GL-5 on the front. I haven't noticed shifting getting any harder..... I'll probably use whatever the fsm calls for once I reseal it.

 

[g-man]

 

[g-man]

Above from the 86 land cruiser maintenance manual. I use Sta-lube 80w90 GL-4 hypoid gear oil in the trans and t'case.