Builds TheGrrrrr Build Thread - 2013 LC (2 Viewers)

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Warranty Update: Purchased Carmax MaxCare warranty at vehicle purchase for $2099 to extend coverage for 4 years to October 28, 2023 or 125,000 miles.

Valley Plate Leak Covered for roughly: $1200 (limited by the warranty labor rates and time limits) actual install time was much longer and out of pocket would have been closer to $1800.

SAIS fixed by dealer as a result of the Valley Plate fix: Estimated at $1000, which would have likely been required eventually. While the warranty didn't cover this directly, it was needed because of warranty work so I'm including it in my warranty ROI analysis.

My view so far:

Warranty Cost: $2099
Out of Pocket Saved: $2800
ROI to date: $701

Keeping an eye on the radiator as the crack is forming but not yet leaking. Would be surprised if it outlives the warranty.
Since Carmax is paying, I’d be surprised if Toyota didn’t recommend replacement.
 
Since Carmax is paying, I’d be surprised if Toyota didn’t recommend replacement.

If you are referring to the radiator crack, its barely noticeable and the dealer did raise it with the warranty company. They require that it be visibly leaking fluid to cover, so its just a waiting game because we all know it will eventually fail. I had hoped the warranty company would want to avoid the cost of a tow and potential engine damage that could result from a loss of coolant on a long road trip where it likely wouldn't be detected until a fuel stop or the engine overheats. They did not see it that way.
 
Looks like BudBuilt skids will be delivered tomorrow. I received the Transfer Case cross member early and installed it yesterday with the truck sitting in my driveway. Really need to get some good jack stands or access to a lift for the rest of the install. Will remove the rest of the skid plates today and hopefully finish the diff oil replacement. Still need to do the front and rear diffs. Had to order a new 24mm socket and soak the plugs with penetrating oil as they aren't budging.
 
Looks like BudBuilt skids will be delivered tomorrow. I received the Transfer Case cross member early and installed it yesterday with the truck sitting in my driveway. Really need to get some good jack stands or access to a lift for the rest of the install. Will remove the rest of the skid plates today and hopefully finish the diff oil replacement. Still need to do the front and rear diffs. Had to order a new 24mm socket and soak the plugs with penetrating oil as they aren't budging.

All of my skids showed up today. I now need the weather to warm up so I can install them and my front bumper.
 
If you are referring to the radiator crack, its barely noticeable and the dealer did raise it with the warranty company. They require that it be visibly leaking fluid to cover, so its just a waiting game because we all know it will eventually fail. I had hoped the warranty company would want to avoid the cost of a tow and potential engine damage that could result from a loss of coolant on a long road trip where it likely wouldn't be detected until a fuel stop or the engine overheats. They did not see it that way.
Too bad the dealer's mechanic didn't accidentally drop a hammer on that raised spot
 
If you are referring to the radiator crack, its barely noticeable and the dealer did raise it with the warranty company. They require that it be visibly leaking fluid to cover, so its just a waiting game because we all know it will eventually fail. I had hoped the warranty company would want to avoid the cost of a tow and potential engine damage that could result from a loss of coolant on a long road trip where it likely wouldn't be detected until a fuel stop or the engine overheats. They did not see it that way.
Time for some spirited driving and get that engine nice and hot with hopes to speed up the process so it does fall under warranty? Got a track near you?
Also for the skid install, having all 4 on ramps made it be at a good height. Low enough to use my body to hold panels in place to bolt on, but high enough to be able to move around and not feel stuck.
 
Time for some spirited driving and get that engine nice and hot with hopes to speed up the process so it does fall under warranty? Got a track near you?
Also for the skid install, having all 4 on ramps made it be at a good height. Low enough to use my body to hold panels in place to bolt on, but high enough to be able to move around and not feel stuck.


The way the crack is forming, if it lasts 2.5 more years or 25k miles, I'll happily go out of pocket to replace it. It's always important to respect the achievements of your opponent. As for ramps, jack stands etc... I just haven't been able to decide which ones I feel safe with. Its such a heavy truck and I rarely have an extra set of hands. If I could raise the ceiling and the door height of my garage I would have a lift for sure.
 
Got those Rhino Gear ones as well. Super sturdy.
 
The way the crack is forming, if it lasts 2.5 more years or 25k miles, I'll happily go out of pocket to replace it. It's always important to respect the achievements of your opponent. As for ramps, jack stands etc... I just haven't been able to decide which ones I feel safe with. Its such a heavy truck and I rarely have an extra set of hands. If I could raise the ceiling and the door height of my garage I would have a lift for sure.
I made ramps out of leftover cedar posts from the fence that I put in. Nothing to worry about with a DIY wood solution.

When I use jack stands, they’re rated to 12 tons. Some might say overkill but I’d rather not feel the truck come down on my ugly mug.
 
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I have a pair of 6 ton jack stands. I try not to raise them more than a couple notches as it seems like a lot of leverage if the vehicle shifted and any time I need more height I'll slide a huge board underneath the stands to raise the "floor" height. Also any time I remove a tire I will put it under the frame or suspension, just in case something slips. I saw some dolt with a BMW hammering under his car with just the jack a few years back and it fell off the jack and pinned him. He was super lucky that the frame height was identical to his torso and that I happened to be walking by his apartment parking lot when it happened.

All that said I've pulled my engine skids with the truck on the ground, so you could probably get away without them but it would be s lot easier. Failing that some decent ramps are great for non-suspension work like this.
 
Christmas came early... @Taco2Cruiser aka Santa Claus, and the awesome team at BudBuilt delivered my skids today with the help of UPS. Sadly the transmission skid was delayed due to weather and should be here tomorrow. Tonight though, I get to stare at these beastly works of art and science...

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It was such a nice way to wrap up a difficult day, and almost good enough to make me forget about this:


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Truck died, no warning, no lights... just died. Turns out it was a hose that detached from the fuel rail due to the connector not being fully engaged. The fix was quick and the engine is getting cleaned up, so no harm done. I probably could have diagnosed and fixed myself but I was on the merge ramp clover thing between two highways and didn’t want to die. AAA had a driver nearby and I was less than two miles from the dealership, so I was loaded up and delivered to the dealer in under 30 mins from making the call.

A good end to a bad day.
 
Hi, nice looking rig. Curious about the diff drop you did, I’ve seen it done on 100 series but you’re the first I’ve seen on the 200 - what was the benefit, would you do it again?

Very little to no benefit. Took it out today so I could install budbuilt skids.
 
Very little to no benefit. Took it out today so I could install budbuilt skids.

Did you happen to measure or photo your CV angles before and after the diff drop? I really thought I was going to need one after I installed my lift. But it's settled a little bit now and I'm not sure I really need it.
 
Did you happen to measure or photo your CV angles before and after the diff drop? I really thought I was going to need one after I installed my lift. But it's settled a little bit now and I'm not sure I really need it.
I did. It’s in a post somewhere in this forum. I don’t recall the factory CV angles but I’ve seen that in a post and the DD got it pretty close to factory.

I don’t think they are necessary on mild lifts, but I had a CV boot tear about 30k miles after the lift. It was already a rebooted CV, so the DD was an insurance policy against another tear... not sure if it was the lift or the aftermarket boot or the fact that I tow a lot at highway speeds which tends to increase the amount of lift (and corresponding Cv angle) due to the weight of the trailer pushing the rear down and the front up. So when towing I effectively have a much higher front end lift.
 
Very little to no benefit. Took it out today so I could install budbuilt skids.
So the diff drop was preventing proper skid installation? I never thought about that compatibility.
 
So the diff drop was preventing proper skid installation? I never thought about that compatibility.
I'm surprised. Mine works fine with the factory skids. IIRC it came with longer bolts.
 

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