Builds TheGrrrrr Build Thread - 2013 LC (3 Viewers)

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Finished up a few projects before LCDC 2020. I installed a LiPO4 100ah battery in the driver side drawer wing with a Victron 712 battery monitor. Mounted a RedArc BCDC1225D, Renogy 1000w Inverter w/ Remote and added two AC outlets. Now all exterior lighting, interior lighting mods, fridge, HAM Radio, USBs, AC outlets/inverter and non-OEM 12v ports all run off of the LiPO4 Battery. The winch and the ARB Compressor run off of the starting battery. I also mounted my 20lb CO2 tank on the roof, because I thought my compressor was shot. It wasn't, the switch failed. Now I have redundancy and can easily run my air tools off of the Powertank. No more carrying electric tools in the drawers, even though I now have the ability to charge the batteries. At least my chainsaw is still electric, so I guess I can charge it.

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Today is the one year anniversary of me picking up my 2013 Land Cruiser. It's been a long and crazy year, but the one thing over the past 12 months that has been a frequent respite from the craziness and an absolute joy in every way has been building and using my 200 series. Here are a few photos from the past year that tell some part of that story:

Home from the dealer:

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First Mods (Tires, Hidden Winch, Lift):

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A few updates:

Added the Kaon Shelf:

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Mounted up the Tire table to the underside of the shelf:

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Gave away my old knock-off Maxtrax and bought a new set. Mounted them using the Rhino Rack side mount and Matrix pins:

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Cut off the hook from my Smittybuilt X2O winch and replaced with the Factor 55.

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More updates:

Added the Bush Company 270 XT awning:

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Got out for some fun:

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Added some Baja Designs dome lights to the lift gate:

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Performed 100k mile maintenance:

  1. MAF Sensor Replacement - Part No. 22204-0F030
  2. PCV Valve Replacement - Part No. 12204-38010
  3. Spark Plugs - Ruthenium HX from NGK
  4. Oil Change to 0W-20
  5. Diffs and Transfer Case Oil Change - Mobile 1 75w-90 GL5
  6. Cabin Air Filter
  7. Blinker Fluid - Slow Blink 2000
  8. Grease Prop Shaft
  9. Rotate and balance tire/wheels
  10. Installed Jowett Oil Filter cap, drain plug, diff plugs etc
Transmission fluid was changed at 90k
Power Steering Flush performed at 90k
Brake rotors, pads, fluid and lines replaced at 95k
 
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As I wait for my Valley Leak to be repaired, I'm sitting here thinking about what is next... Seems like its just the big (expensive) stuff left to do. Bumpers, LRA, Gears and Lockers, oh my! Not much else I can think of that I haven't knocked off the list. BudBuilt skids will be here in a few weeks, may replace my current solar panel and try a different HAM setup but that's all. Really want to go to the Icon Rebounds in 17" with 285/75/17 RGs, but not until I either wear out the current ones or somebody wants to buy them. Tesla Screen and Digital Dash Gauge Cluster are still on the docket, but I'm just not feeling like the prices are appropriate. I dump a lot of money into this hobby, but I'm still a believer in seeking value.
 
Did you notice a difference at idle going to 5W30? Why Quaker State and not M1?
 
Did you notice a difference at idle going to 5W30? Why Quaker State and not M1?

I need to change that. I posted in anticipation of work I was in the middle of but hadn't finished. With the valley plate leak popping up during my work, I just had the dealership change the oil while it was in, so I'm still on 0W-20. I've been trying to do more myself, but the valley leak just looked like too much for my skill level. I still have all my supplies, so the next change will be 5w-30. I chose Quaker State Ultimate Duty because somebody posted some research that said it was the best.
 
Valley Plate has been repaired, but it threw codes for the SAIS so that got fixed too.

Here is the parts list from my invoice for the valley plate leak.

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Here is the parts list from the invoice for the SAIS System issue:

Note that the Qty for O-Ring and the SAI Pipe Gasket should be two (2) of each.

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Congrats on getting this fixed. Sorry to hear about the SAIS code, I believe that can happen when the tube from the SAIS valve to the exhaust manifold gets out of whack, or the valve gets damaged. It's very tight back there.

Why did you end up using the FIPG vs the Three-Bond 1282B seal packing (08826-00100)?
 
Congrats on getting this fixed. Sorry to hear about the SAIS code, I believe that can happen when the tube from the SAIS valve to the exhaust manifold gets out of whack, or the valve gets damaged. It's very tight back there.

Why did you end up using the FIPG vs the Three-Bond 1282B seal packing (08826-00100)?


I didn't do the work. The Toyota dealer did the work, under the Carmax MaxCare warranty. I just took the part numbers off of the invoice and plugged them into McGeorge parts catalog to create a bill of materials that would be easier to read and post up here. The SAIS fix was covered by the dealer as it was determined it was damaged during the Valley Plate fix.
 
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Warranty Update: Purchased Carmax MaxCare warranty at vehicle purchase for $2099 to extend coverage for 4 years to October 28, 2023 or 125,000 miles.

Valley Plate Leak Covered for roughly: $1200 (limited by the warranty labor rates and time limits) actual install time was much longer and out of pocket would have been closer to $1800.

SAIS fixed by dealer as a result of the Valley Plate fix: Estimated at $1000, which would have likely been required eventually. While the warranty didn't cover this directly, it was needed because of warranty work so I'm including it in my warranty ROI analysis.

My view so far:

Warranty Cost: $2099
Out of Pocket Saved: $2800
ROI to date: $701

Keeping an eye on the radiator as the crack is forming but not yet leaking. Would be surprised if it outlives the warranty.
 

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