Builds TheGrrrrr Build Thread - 2013 LC (1 Viewer)

[reddog90]

Any rubbing on the KDSS or mud flaps? Are you on adjustable UCAs?

I'd like to know as well. I had to remove front mud flaps and add spidertrax after I installed my lift, and I still touch KDSS and sway bar at full lock. RWs would be tucked in more than my factory wheels with spidertrax. I guess alignment would make a difference though. I'm running 285/70/18 RGs.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

I'd like to know as well. I had to remove front mud flaps and add spidertrax after I installed my lift, and I still touch KDSS and sway bar at full lock. RWs would be tucked in more than my factory wheels with spidertrax. I guess alignment would make a difference though. I'm running 285/70/18 RGs.

Rock Warriors are +50 offset so they are 10mm further out than OEM. All my mud flaps were already gone and I had already pushed the liner forward to fit my 275/70/18 so I can’t comment on rubbing in stock config, but in my circumstance with SPC UCAs, OME Nitro 2.5” lift, RWs and 285/75/17 tires, I have about .25” gap at full lock between the tire and the KDSS. The UCA does not look like it would be an issue under any circumstance.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

The adaptor for my Sy-Klone precleaner arrived on my doorstep, so that got taken care of today too!

 

[reddog90]

Rock Warriors are +50 offset so they are 10mm further out than OEM. All my mud flaps were already gone and I had already pushed the liner forward to fit my 275/70/18 so I can’t comment on rubbing in stock config, but in my circumstance with SPC UCAs, OME Nitro 2.5” lift, RWs and 285/75/17 tires, I have about .25” gap at full lock between the tire and the KDSS. The UCA does not look like it would be an issue under any circumstance.

I've got SPC UCAs too. My factory wheels with 1.25" spidertrax is approximately 25mm offset so just wondering. I really think a different alignment shop could get me in order.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Some photos from Cruise Moab...

 

[TheGrrrrr]

More CM photos...

 

[TheGrrrrr]

yet more CM photos...

 

[TheGrrrrr]

a few more CM photos...

 

[tbisaacs]

That snorkel pre-cleaner looks so good on these rigs.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

That snorkel pre-cleaner looks so good on these rigs.

Seemed to work pretty well too. Lots of dust on the trails before the rain came through and you could see where it was spitting it out.

 

[buddhanc]

Following. Love this build and want to copy your electronics/drawer install.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Alright, now we have a problem to tackle.

Upon further inspection, Carista indicates a P0441 code which is:

A quick clearing of the code and the dash is normal, but the code instantly came back. Drive the truck around the next day and the dash lit up again after about 10 miles or so. Cleared the code, it came back but dash is normal.

Time to use the search function... wish me luck.

 

[grinchy]

Fuel cap gasket

 

[TheGrrrrr]

That was my first thought but I replaced the cap just a few months back.. I reseated it anyway and the issue happened again, so today I wiped everything down and inspected thoroughly. Pretty well convinced now that it’s not the fuel cap.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Rodent chewed some wires, did a thorough inspection to see if there are others. Looks good everywhere else. Must have been the weekend up in Sedona a couple weeks ago.

I think my P0441 is solved.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Well, since Cruise Moab I have had some sort of wiring issue with my light bar and now am blowing fuse that goes to the Baja Designs dome lights installed in the lift gate so I wanted to get those sorted out before LCDC. The entire wiring setup that I built into my drawer system has never been quite as clean and professional looking as I would like so I decided to tackle that project this week.

Scope-creep ensued and I ended up removing the drawers and all of the wiring, carpet and trim to install some sound deadening butyl mats and run the wiring in looms under the carpet. Working my way through the cabin trying to get butyl on as much exposed metal as possible. Last photo is current status, with a lot more work to do this week. This also provided an opportunity to do some thorough cleaning as well, so when its done I'm sure it will be worth the blood (sheet metal edges are sharp) and sweat (105-110f temps and no garage or AC available) but at the moment I'm regretting not paying someone to do it for me.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Well, the great rewire has been completed but there is visually nothing to show as being different aside from most of the wiring now being run in split loom and/or under the cargo area carpet. Still a few kinks to work out that I will expound on later, but I did switch some things up on the exterior. The biggest change is that I removed the Bush Company Awning until camping season in AZ gets going in the fall. With LCDC coming up and lots of annoying experiences getting it bashed by branches, just decided I didn't need it if I'm not camping.

The other is that I have moved the MaxTrax from the Rhino Rack side mount to a new flat mount from Kaon. I've been happy with Kaon stuff and wanted to avoid having the MaxTrax hung up on branches as well, so I figured I'd give them a try. I haven'y done any driving with them mounted yet, but the Kaon quality lives up to the expectations I had from the cargo shelf.

Here they are:

 

[TheGrrrrr]

Kaon MaxTrax Flat Mount...mounted:

Everything installed and aligned easily... feels rock solid. I can stand on my BudBuilt sliders and reach all four post for unlocking, dismounting, mounting and locking. All in all a pretty good setup. Surprise Slee or Trail Tailor haven't already done something similar as its a pretty simple design.

 

[dubyahard]

I have the Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform, and I too have been eyeing the Kaon maxtrax mounting solutions. I was trying to decide between the ones you ordered and the stealth version in which the pins fold flush to the rack rails. The only drawback is they have to run north/south (and they cost more). I don't always leave my trax on top and I'd prefer not to leave the pins up if the boards aren't there.
I had a Renogy 100W panel on my platform also but, unfortunately, it's too wide for the rack when my cargo box is up there. I tried a hood mounted flexible version but it failed, so now I'm thinking of getting the long skinny 90W panel from Zamp.

 

[CharlieS]

Mounting widthwise looks cool, but practically speaking, mounting lengthwise makes it quicker/easier because you can access all of the pins to deploy or stow the boards from one side of the vehicle.