Build The White Trash - Chopped 80 tube bed AKA Proper Cupholders for Starbucks

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Joined
Nov 1, 2004
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Location
Staunton, VA
Yes I searched but I couldn't find any threads mentioning cup holders. Especially ones that work with Starbucks...

JUST KIDDING!

Picked up this little beauty yesterday!

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The damage is worse than the pictures make it look.

My goal is to bang the windshield frame straight enough to get a windshield in there (this may or may not be possible) and leave the back open like a first gen 4runner so this thing can pull "pickup" duty as well. May build a canvas top for it back there and it is definitely going to get rollover protection around the front seats. Other than that I haven't planned too much out.

1st days progress:
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Lets see your photchops and ideas and thoughts on why this is stupid and will never work!

Brian

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... My goal is to bang the windshield frame straight enough to get a windshield in there (this may or may not be possible) ...

Should not be a problem, the tool of choice is a 4ton port-a-power.
 
So I just found a port-a-power I can borrow. I've never used one. Does anyone have any tips? I'll be tackling this tonight.

@Tools R Us I read "sunny belly" but the pics were gone :( I am not nearly as ambitious as Brian though. I'm going for the topless, bobbed driver. Pretty much an fj40 that can do interstate speeds. If I need an enclosed cab ill drive my other ugly (but sound) 80.

And sorry to everyone looking for cupholders. I just use a roll of duct tape....
 
The first priority is to get the things that you are going to keep to fit, windshield, doors, sunroof, etc. Think of the force angles that caused the bends and apply pressure in the opposite direction. Don't try to push too much in one spot, move around, change angle, often. Use wood cribbing on the floor to spread the load, or better yet, make a temporary metal structure to bolt to the floor, seat bolts, etc, to push on.

It's often best to not cut away structure too soon, can cause weak spots that wont push correctly. Better to push the whole upper structure as straight as possible, then cut off what is not needed for the project. You will want a windshield, it is the most critical measuring piece, lay it in the opening, note how it needs to move, remove push, repeat.
 
The first priority is to get the things that you are going to keep to fit, windshield, doors, sunroof, etc. Think of the force angles that caused the bends and apply pressure in the opposite direction. Don't try to push too much in one spot, move around, change angle, often. Use wood cribbing on the floor to spread the load, or better yet, make a temporary metal structure to bolt to the floor, seat bolts, etc, to push on.

It's often best to not cut away structure too soon, can cause weak spots that wont push correctly. Better to push the whole upper structure as straight as possible, then cut off what is not needed for the project. You will want a windshield, it is the most critical measuring piece, lay it in the opening, note how it needs to move, remove push, repeat.

Huh. Sounds easy when you say it like that!

WE'll seehow it goes.
 
Huh. Sounds easy when you say it like that!

WE'll seehow it goes.

It bends easier than one would think. The biggest mistake that most make is over bending, stretching one spot, once it's too far, then is difficult to recover.
 
Welp. Took a couple hours with the port-a-power and things are starting to shape up.

Before. None of the doors would even try to close. The passenger side is pushed in and back and the drivers side is pushed out and standing almost straight up.

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After. Doors close, but windshield is still way off. Rear roof is off too, but I don't really care there. I want to get the sides pulled so I could latch the tailgate. I'm happy with that.

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With the windshield laid up there for an idea:
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@Tools R Us - I think maybe I'm being to tentative with the portapower/ i have no experience doing this. I can push things into position but then they just spring back. I really need some tips from guys that have used one before. Should I be making relief cuts? using heat? Should I be bending way past where things should be and letting them move back? Does bending mulitple times in the same spot help (as in push it out, let it back push it out let it back)?

I've been trying to find info online but it has been a little sparse. Any helpful links?

Thanks guys.
 
And some (super s***ty) photochops for fun. I'll eventually take off the J springs and probably run stockers in the rear. it has about a 10 inch lift out back after all that weight is off. Might drop the front down too.

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Flareless6.webp
 
There will be significant spring back. Push it where it looks good, remove the pressure, note the spring, over push about that much and see what result. Looking much better.
 
This so makes me want to buy a rolled rig... I had no idea the port-a-powers were so cheap.
 
Looks great, I love it. I always liked the first gen 4runner and the older blazers that you could pull the top off. I think this is pretty cool if you have a huge shop to store it in 6 months out of the year. lol.
 
So this is what happens when a round Starbucks cup is put into a square 80 cupholder..... the disruption of round vs squond (a word a friend and I made up for squares with rounded edges... squond) will literally cause gravity to change, and the 80 to roll.

Has anyone ever thought about cup holders for the 80's that wouldn't do this?

That last photo.... that's definitely a 90's kid MS Paint masterpiece right there.


On a serious note - should be interesting to see what you come up with and how it varies from others who have gone down this path!
 
Dude, that thing looks worse than the one rolled and am replacing! I'm watching your handy work! :)
 
This so makes me want to buy a rolled rig... I had no idea the port-a-powers were so cheap.
Buy mine! For the right price of course!
 
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