Builds The Truck of Theseus

[aztoyman]

IDK what the price difference would be compared to the Toyota hardware kits but, I typically order JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) flange nuts and bolts from McMaster-Carr because I'm not restoring to original. They don't have the yellow Cad plated color if that matters to you. Silver (zinc coated) or black oxide color. I can get the size and grade I want in the quantity I need and have it next day. Even with the shipping I save compared to buying local.

If I was restoring I would probably get the kits. Or maybe re-plate my original stuff?

 

[gnob]

marlin used to carry some jis stuff

 

[littlevulture]

Thanks for all the replies, I feel dumb…JIS was the keyword I was missing. In addition to McMaster they’re also available at Metric Fasteners & Hardware｜BelMetric - https://belmetric.com. I’ll have to compare pricing more closely but looks like I’ve got a few options to order a handful of each of the common sizes in a couple lengths.

 

[littlevulture]

In other news I got all the VF4 parts cleaned and hopefully most of the aluminum chips out. Case got degreaser, then a water rinse, then WD40 and all the steel internals got the same but with brake clean instead of water. Forgot to order new seals for it so it can’t go back together just yet but soon.

I used front half of the VF1 case with its input shaft, crossmember mount, and some clamps as a jig to align the R156. Transmission seems to be in the right spot, unfortunately the bottom of the frame drops down and starts tucking into the center of the truck right where I’d like the new crossmember mounts to be which is gonna make for some annoying compound angles.

 

[pappy]

Thanks for all the replies, I feel dumb…JIS was the keyword I was missing. In addition to McMaster they’re also available at Metric Fasteners & Hardware｜BelMetric - https://belmetric.com. I’ll have to compare pricing more closely but looks like I’ve got a few options to order a handful of each of the common sizes in a couple lengths.

This company was in my bookmarks. I have no experience since I usually just go to McMaster-Carr.

Overland Metric | JIS Hardware

At Overland Metric we've spent the last seven years learning the business of Toyota Land Cruiser and JIS hardware. In 2016 we expanded the business from Full Vehicle Kits to include Stainless Kits and Bulk Hardware. We spent six months with manufactures to duplicate OEM hardware as closely as...

www.overlandmetric.com

 

[littlevulture]

Been mostly working on other projects but my transfer case seals came in yesterday so I put it all together for what's hopefully the final time.

Most of the parts staged for assembly minus the front and rear bearing caps and driveshaft flanges.

The rear housing final assembly.

Front housing final assembly.

I machined this little cap to go in the hole where the shift rods from the electric motor went. It's probably overkill but I wanted an excuse to practice with the machine tools some more...messed up a couple non-critical dimensions but learned a couple things in the process. The tab thats holding it in was a part of the original electric shift mechanism that just happened to work here, its also held in with RTV.

The whole case...the little seals for the shift rods had to be installed last because they made it too hard to align the case halves. I got a brand new 3oz tube of RTV and used a little over half of it to put this all back together. Don't mind the worn out old shifter, it's just a placeholder so I could test the shifts. It'll get replaced as soon as I decide on a design and make some twin sticks.

 

[littlevulture]

Swung by the surplus yard today and picked up a 4’ length of 8” x 0.5” plate for my transmission crossmember…some assembly required.

 

[littlevulture]

My rear full float had been leaking ever since I put it together so I pulled it apart last night to see what the problem was. Turns out I incorrectly sized my axle shaft seal and never noticed it. The axle shaft is about 32mm and I used a 33mm seal so of course its gonna leak. Also started thinking through some upgrades I'd like to make to the adapter plate to make assembly easier and also accommodate IFS hubs. The IFS rear housing with the adapter and SFA hubs matches stock IFS width pretty well, so running IFS hubs in the rear should just about match the width of 1st gen Tacoma axles based on the Roundforge axle width listings. I haven't decided if I want that extra width yet but I'm going to make parts for the adapter to correctly locate the caliper for either hub type.

 

[aztoyman]

I wanted to do the rear IFS axle housing full float setup with the SFA hubs so it wouldn't end up wider than my front axle. LROR said it wouldn't work. I'm looking forward to your efforts.

 

[littlevulture]

I just took a look at the FROR kit and I can’t imagine why it wouldn’t work…I only got about 500 highway miles of testing on this setup a couple years ago before I had to put the truck back in storage but I’m not really worried about it. Everything follows OEM Toyota designs including the adapter which mounts with the same 4 bolts as the semi float shaft assembly.

I’m using rear slip on rotors and calipers from a 2015 4Runner which I think is better than repurposing front calipers like the FROR kit seems to. My notes are in the shop but with the rotors installed I think I’m within a half inch of my SFA with IFS hubs…I’ll go check my notes in the morning and report back.

 

[aztoyman]

I have an 85 front housing with IFS hubs to eliminate the spacers. I did end up running longer studs and slipping a 3/8" spacer on each side so my wheels would clear my 2010-up 4Runner calipers.

I have a set of 85 SFA spindles and hubs that I thought would work for a full float rear with discs on my IFS rear.

I don't like the lack of a parking brake is the main reason I didn't pursue it. Plus LROR said it wouldn't work. I didn't really believe it though.

 

[littlevulture]

That's interesting you needed a spacer in front...what size wheels are you running? I've currently got the Tundra 13WL casting on my front axle but I believe the GX460 14WA setup is the largest that will fit under a 17" wheel and I think it'll match my rear disks better than my current setup.

I also lost my parking brake when I did the swap. I wanted to try and incorporate the factory 4Runner parking brake drum into the assembly but I haven't been able to get my hands on one to pull apart and integrate with my design. Back when I was using the truck as a daily my parking brake broke and I never did get it fixed and it was incredibly annoying not having that so somehow I'm going to add one back into the design. Currently I'm leaning towards either a pinion brake system or an auxiliary cable caliper like the Wilwood MC4 setup, although I really dislike that it likely uses a proprietary pad.

 

[aztoyman]

The front calipers are the 14WA castings with the 12mm mounting bolts. There is a 14mm bolt version as well.
My wheels are steel Raceline RT81 17 x 8 with 3.5" back spacing. They rubbed against the face of the calipers. I did grind one caliper enough to clear but I had Send-Cut-Send make the steel slip on 3/8" spacers for the bolt on and go option with these wheels.

LROR offers FJ Cruiser D-rotors as a parking brake option that is expensive and it is JUST the backing plates. You still have to buy all the components to assemble it. Just too much money for me to put into an 8" axle.

 

[littlevulture]

Alright I see that now on their site. Confirms my idea that it really shouldn't be too hard to modify my adapters to accommodate those parts but again I can't find the parts for a reasonable price. I really think the Wilwood auxiliary parking brake is probably the most affordable way to go. Basically $400 from a reputable brand, all I'd need to do is add mounting tabs to the adapter.

Send-Cut-Send is one of my favorite ways to get custom parts, I've used them for quite a few things and I'm always impressed by the cost and accuracy of the finished parts. Also thats not super encouraging on the 14WA calipers. I've got some factory FJ Cruiser 17" wheels right now that I assumed would clear those calipers but maybe not...

 

[aztoyman]

I showed pics somewhere back in my build thread of the wheel/caliper fit. I'll see if I can find it and post it here if you want. It might just be my wheels. It hit about center of the holes in the face of the wheel. Where it is basically a tapered cone shape. Other wheels may fit.

 

[aztoyman]

My wife's FJ Cruiser has the factory alloy wheels. I'll have to do a test fit. If I ever get a chance to get back in the garage. .

To add. I did test fit these calipers on her FJ and they were a bolt on and go. I tried her FJ calipers on mine and they also didn't clear my wheels.

 

[littlevulture]

Thats curious, I don't know what the backspacing is on these wheels except that they poke out about 1/2" more than every other Toyota alloy but I'd assume anything aftermarket would have more clearance for the calipers since most aftermarket wheels stick out more than the OEM stuff. This is the style of FJ wheel I'm running.

 

[gnob]

im running early fjc rims with first gen tundra stuff. pretty sure you'll be fine

 

[littlevulture]

That’s what I’m running right now, FJC wheels and Tundy 13WL brakes. I’d like to upgrade to the even larger 14WA brakes from the GX/4Runners though.

 

[aztoyman]

Here's a pic of the 14 WA calipers behind my Racelines. And just to be clear, the 14 WA calipers bolted right on my wife's FJ Cruiser with no clearance issues at all with the 17" OEM alloy wheels that it came with.