Ever had a clutch fork rub the pressure plate?

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South Bend clutch has some high torque 3.4 Toyota clutch kits. High dollar too.

Kentucky Clutch has become a recommended place by many performance enthusiasts. The website says they have just about anything you need but you have to call. I'll be using them for my Flathead Ford but that's definitely not a racing application.
 
South bend is the only 240mm single mass clutch kit I've found to last in my 5 speed converted TDI Passat.

At this point I don't want to buy another 500 dollar clutch kit, im currently sitting on two of them
 
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Introducing, test fit transmission.

Can be picked up with one hand. While I have a transmission jack, the asphalt ground paired with a slight slope usually leads to staining, cussing, drinking and sometimes even throwing of objects while trying to wrestle the r150 in place.

Now I can mix and match my clutch sets, new LUK flywheel and try to get proper clearance on this guy.

I don't want to eat up my new synchros. They are only about 50 bucks from Cobra transmission but it's a full days work and another 50 bucks in oil.

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Since my last post I've gotten pretty well aquatinted with the inner workings of an r150f.

Purchased a press (cheap Amazon 12 ton) and come what appear to be cut down cylinder sleeves from yota1 for pressing out gears without damage to the teeth if said gears. Also got a cheap harbor freight bearing jaw puller. Other than that just a set of 3 jaw clamps, a torque wrench and hand tools is about all you'll need. A magnet for retrieving some detent balls. A good torqx 3/8 drive set.

On my first attempted rebuild I got just over a year run before 2nd started giving issues. When cold I had to over rev a bit in 1st when shifting into second. If I didn't have the ability to rev to/past 2k I had to double clutch. Once warm it was better. Down shifting also required double clutching.

It took only a week or two for these issues to get worse and sometimes when double clutching didn't work.

For the entirety of the year I ran Royal Purple 10w40.

I mixed and matched clutch forks/pivot balls to keep the clutch pressure plate from contacting the fork. As you can see from pictures, it didn't work. At idle the transmission was always loud with the clutch engaged. I thought it was gear whine but obviously not. This was the centerforce dual friction clutch kit. Very heavy pedal.

I didn't realize it was a heavy pedal until installing my new FX dual friction clutch kit. It feels like there's not a clutch there. Time will tell how long it lasts. No slipping on my city work commute. A highway run will be the next test . I removed the extended slave push rod and back to stock now. I feel like the centerforce pressure plates had so much glamping pressure they were overpowering the yota slave.

The picture of the second pressure plate is a centerforce 2 kit, you can see it was also hitting on the high spots.

My knees are showing some age and the heavy clutch was not always kind, for not I'm at least enjoying a pain free driving experience.

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I took measurements of the distance from the bolt mounting surface to that of the outer face of the pressure plate. The centerforce 2 it was about 2-3mm further proud than the FX. The centerforce DF plate was about 5mm proud.

The FX clutch disk had 56024DF printed on it which I believe is a Sachs disk. If so, that's a little reassuring.

The numbers on the painted red pressure plate were harder to read but I think I made our 98787. I'm not sure if the were more letters/numbers after the second 7, I couldn't find anything on this one.

The kit was less than 120 bucks. The 3.4 tob is Chinese and useless anyway due to the 3.0 being needed. I also tossed the Chinese pilot bearing.

A new LUK flywheel was about 80.
 
I sent an email to centerforce asking for any input on the interference. Their recommendation is to use the smaller diameter 3.0 clutch kit. Not much of a fix for those needing maximum clamping strength without too heavy of a clutch pedal

This probably won't be an issue for the 3.4 guys as most of you won't need a 500 plus dollar clutch.

VW TDI swapped rigs, this might be an issue. I'll continue to update how the FX clutch stands up and long term reliability.

The LC engineering clutches slipped so badly paired with the VW TDI they list not to use for TDI engines on their site.
 
Would be nice to adapt a GM adjustable pilot, with skinny enough wrenches one might be able to adjust without removing.
 
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