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- #621
Put the carpet back in last night, replaced the foam on my HVAC flappers, and made a cabin air filter.
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Build The Trail Snail Build | Above Average Overlandish
- Thread starter SmokingRocks
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- #622
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It's probably just me but I can't tell where the filters are in the pictures there all too close and everything's covered with the furniture blankets
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- #624
Click one of the photos, it'll put you in viewer mode which shrinks the size of them (unless you click to zoom) then you can just page left or right through them with your keyboard.
Dude you're talking to a dinosaur. I really like the filter idea but I can't tell where you cut that hole my rear heater has been deleted but it doesn't look like that's where it's at, I may be wrong
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- #626
I see what you are saying, this is right behind the wiper motor in the dash cowl, between the hood and the windshield. It's the fresh air intake for the HVAC blower behind the glovebox.
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- #627
Had to drop my transfer case again to take care of an issue with my center locker. When I replaced the bearings and rehab'd the case I added some lithium grease to the CDL's lockers motor actuator. Well, that was a mistake, it ended up getting on the face of the gear wheel which has contacts that tell the CDL relay when the locker is engaged or not. This is how the CDL relay knows when to turn off the motor once it's in the correct alignment.
So the little bit of grease was causing continuity issues between the contacts and the surface of the gear wheel, so the diff would stay locked and the relay would click on and off rapidly when trying to disengage. Should have read the FSM on this part because it clearly says to keep this surface clean.
So the little bit of grease was causing continuity issues between the contacts and the surface of the gear wheel, so the diff would stay locked and the relay would click on and off rapidly when trying to disengage. Should have read the FSM on this part because it clearly says to keep this surface clean.
interesting, I have wanted to open the lockers and do some preventative maintenance with some grease but I guess I will rethink that 
They need grease but just in the right placeinteresting, I have wanted to open the lockers and do some preventative maintenance with some grease but I guess I will rethink that
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- #630
Little Moab Trip, I mean SCOTTSDALE ARIZONA....
- Thread starter
- #631
Convinced my friends to get the SJK Slumberjack tarps too, they were put to good use this last week.
Here's the kitchen setup for breakfast!
and some good ol' petroglyphs
Here's the kitchen setup for breakfast!
and some good ol' petroglyphs
I have a Slumerjack as well and really like!!
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- #633
Yea I got mine last year, used the shoot out of it, subjected it to some crazy winds and it's held up to everything I've thrown at it. I told my friends about how awesome it is and that they shouldn't dick around with trying to DIY a tarp set up to save $40 when this thing is so amazing. So it was a pleasant surprise to see two of them show up with their own Slumberjack Roadhouse Tarps, my jeep friend set his up off the back of his WJ and we used the other at the beach on the river for our 'spa day'.
That was the first time I've seen it set up as a stand-alone system and it was equally impressive and made the day that much better.
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- #634
I FINALLY ADDED AN ARMREST
This mod has been long overdue and I'm so happy to have finally just done it. I didn't take photos of the installation because I wasn't sure how it'd turn out, but I really shouldn't have been worried.
I started by measuring the height of the armrest on the door in relation to the pivot point on the seatback, then marked this location on the fabric on the other side of the seat with a chalk pen. This gave me a top-of-armrest reference. Next, I removed the seat cover and foam (if you have fabric seat covers take this opportunity to toss them in the washing machine) and marked the location of the top of armrest on the seat frame. Then I mocked up the armrest on the post and marked where the plate would need to be mounted on the seat frame.
After that, I clamped the post bracket in place, replaced the foam to test fit its orientation, and made adjustments in the X & Y axis until I was happy. I had to grind and bend the post mounting plate to conform to the seat frame somewhat. Once that was done I marked and drilled one hole through the seat tube to bolt the plate in the correct orientation. After the final test fit, I burned it in with the MIG.
Cutting a rough hole in the fabric is a bad idea as it will eventually fray, I thought about sewing something along the circular cut to prevent fraying but ultimately went with an easier and more elegant solution.
I started by putting the fabric cover on the foam over the frame and stretched it to mimic the final position it will be in when tight, then I marked out the post location on the inside of the fabric and used a pick to punch a hole through the center of that. Next, I clamped the fabric taught over a block of wood in front of my exhaust vent fan. I grabbed a throw-away 3/4" deep 3/8" drive socket put it on an extension, heated it up with my torch (DONT BREATH THE FUMES IN) then I centered the socket over the post hole and burned the hole in through the fabric. I kind of wish I had taken some photos because this method was very easy, effective, clean, and will prevent fraying.
So sorry about the lack of photos but here's the end product. This is the armrest I used: Central Armrest Seat Arm Rest
This mod has been long overdue and I'm so happy to have finally just done it. I didn't take photos of the installation because I wasn't sure how it'd turn out, but I really shouldn't have been worried.
I started by measuring the height of the armrest on the door in relation to the pivot point on the seatback, then marked this location on the fabric on the other side of the seat with a chalk pen. This gave me a top-of-armrest reference. Next, I removed the seat cover and foam (if you have fabric seat covers take this opportunity to toss them in the washing machine) and marked the location of the top of armrest on the seat frame. Then I mocked up the armrest on the post and marked where the plate would need to be mounted on the seat frame.
After that, I clamped the post bracket in place, replaced the foam to test fit its orientation, and made adjustments in the X & Y axis until I was happy. I had to grind and bend the post mounting plate to conform to the seat frame somewhat. Once that was done I marked and drilled one hole through the seat tube to bolt the plate in the correct orientation. After the final test fit, I burned it in with the MIG.
Cutting a rough hole in the fabric is a bad idea as it will eventually fray, I thought about sewing something along the circular cut to prevent fraying but ultimately went with an easier and more elegant solution.
I started by putting the fabric cover on the foam over the frame and stretched it to mimic the final position it will be in when tight, then I marked out the post location on the inside of the fabric and used a pick to punch a hole through the center of that. Next, I clamped the fabric taught over a block of wood in front of my exhaust vent fan. I grabbed a throw-away 3/4" deep 3/8" drive socket put it on an extension, heated it up with my torch (DONT BREATH THE FUMES IN) then I centered the socket over the post hole and burned the hole in through the fabric. I kind of wish I had taken some photos because this method was very easy, effective, clean, and will prevent fraying.
So sorry about the lack of photos but here's the end product. This is the armrest I used: Central Armrest Seat Arm Rest
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I use mine a lot on day trail runs in places Johnson Valley (KOH) And Sand Hollow.
When we stop for lunch there’s no shade, we well park three Rig in formation and can set the slumberjack up in a couple of minutes with some bungee cords and no poles.
I really like the small package light weight And quality construction.
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- #636
And it’s made by a colorado company! Another plus!
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- #638
I may have done a thing...
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- #639
Alright well quick update, I am doing a complete engine overhaul for a friends 1FZ-FE so that is going to suck up a chunk of my time in the near future. Also took advantage of the Harbor Freight Memorial Day sale and picked up a media blaster cabinet.
And I got a little creative with the "Company Name" field when I was checking out...
Got a pretty funny Voicemail from them yesterday.
And I got a little creative with the "Company Name" field when I was checking out...
Got a pretty funny Voicemail from them yesterday.
- Thread starter
- #640
This media blaster is a game changer, what would've taken me 30min to an hour with a wire wheel and sandpaper I now can get done in 3 minutes.
Black Hub Fan Clutch
Before (this is post soaking in simple green for 24 hrs and hitting it with a stiff hand brush):
After:
Water Pump Belt Pulley
Before (I had already done half at this point but it gives you an idea on the level of corrosion):
After:
Black Hub Fan Clutch
Before (this is post soaking in simple green for 24 hrs and hitting it with a stiff hand brush):
After:
Water Pump Belt Pulley
Before (I had already done half at this point but it gives you an idea on the level of corrosion):
After: