ChaseTruck
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A/C blowing cold in the winter - is that some sort of requirement for you fine folks from Iowa?
Most people I know want to have the A/C blow cold in the summer...
No wonder I never understood the Midwest when I lived there...
The thread I never thought I'd start...
- Thread starter LS1FJ40
- Start date
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Most people I know want to have the A/C blow cold in the summer...
No wonder I never understood the Midwest when I lived there...
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #883
A/C blowing cold in the winter - is that some sort of requirement for you fine folks from Iowa?
Most people I know want to have the A/C blow cold in the summer...
No wonder I never understood the Midwest when I lived there...
It was 70-75 this past week! In February! I'll find out if the heat works shortly. It's going to be 35 and snowing tomorrow!
Welcome to Iowa! If you don't like the weather, wait 10 minutes, it will change!
I was super nervous when I sent mine off, I talked myself into being sure I needed a full engine rebuild before the results even came back.
Turned out the engine was in great shape.
Moral of the story: you dont know until you know. Hang tight, and fingers crossed for the best.
Turned out the engine was in great shape.
Moral of the story: you dont know until you know. Hang tight, and fingers crossed for the best.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #886
Yeah, she's not sounding good. I haven't been able to pin point the ticking/knocking noise yet. Haven't really had time or felt well enough to start digging in to it though. I'm not convinced that it is in the motor but not convinced it isn't either.
The Blackstone analysis will certainly tell me if I have high metal content. Even though I didn't see any shrapnel and the drain plug looked normal. Don't know what else I'll get out of it. Coolant level isn't changing.
The motor is due for a rebuild anyway. She is drinking about a quart per 1000-1200 miles. Granted a little bit of that appears to be leaking from the pan seal but not much.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I say the results will be extraordinary. Knock is not in the motor, and the partial oil change every thousand miles may show well in the results too. Lol
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #888
Took the ol 93 with the knocking motor to go pick up her new motor. 93 1FZ-FE with, allegedly, 153k miles on it. I'm skeptical though. Everything appears to be original OEM equipment on it. It has Toyota red sitting in it still. At least I think it is Toyota red and not rusty water...
Motor spins so I will start tearing it apart and see how she looks. Never rebuilt a motor before so this could be interesting!
This is my dog at the beginning of the trip.
This is the motor sitting in the storage shed.
This is it loaded up and ready to go home.
My dog is over this already.
Motor spins so I will start tearing it apart and see how she looks. Never rebuilt a motor before so this could be interesting!
This is my dog at the beginning of the trip.
This is the motor sitting in the storage shed.
This is it loaded up and ready to go home.
My dog is over this already.
I've been doing the blackstone lab reports for a while, watching the lead count drop from upper 40s to mid teens over 4 oil changes. Some noises have gone away during the same time. I've gone from call Beno for a box of parts to let's just keep driving.
My only theory so far is that I was getting water in my fuel for quite a while even though the engine ran ok...since switching from a mom and pop no-ethanol place to brand name after I got a full tank of water that one time.
My only theory so far is that I was getting water in my fuel for quite a while even though the engine ran ok...since switching from a mom and pop no-ethanol place to brand name after I got a full tank of water that one time.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #892
I think I basically have the following options:
1) Keep driving my 93 with the 338k miles motor and lifter tick/slap. Wait for it to blow up, if it ever does, then do something.
2) Rebuild the spare motor completely and do it right.
3) As @bloc mentioned have the crank mic'd, the cam journals looked at, and pistons inspected. Then make a decision. I don't know exactly what this entails though. So maybe bloc or others can chime in how much work is involved in this to then determine how much cost is involved.
I'm not made of money but I want it to be reliable as well. So if it takes me a little longer to rebuild the spare motor "right" then that is what I would probably do. But I'd prefer not to spend $6-7k doing that if that is the cost ballpark to do it. I'd prefer to spend a couple grand.
1) Keep driving my 93 with the 338k miles motor and lifter tick/slap. Wait for it to blow up, if it ever does, then do something.
2) Rebuild the spare motor completely and do it right.
3) As @bloc mentioned have the crank mic'd, the cam journals looked at, and pistons inspected. Then make a decision. I don't know exactly what this entails though. So maybe bloc or others can chime in how much work is involved in this to then determine how much cost is involved.
I'm not made of money but I want it to be reliable as well. So if it takes me a little longer to rebuild the spare motor "right" then that is what I would probably do. But I'd prefer not to spend $6-7k doing that if that is the cost ballpark to do it. I'd prefer to spend a couple grand.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Replace the head gasket on the spare motor, clean it up and install. Then you're only $1000 into it (assuming head work and Toyota parts). It's likely fine. If not, the head is still 100%. If you tear it all the way apart, it probably own't ever get back together.
That varnish on the cams is pretty normal, especially if the original owner changed the oil at the extended factory interval.
That varnish on the cams is pretty normal, especially if the original owner changed the oil at the extended factory interval.
bloc
SILVER Star
I like this idea.
How many more miles do you hope to get out of the rest of the truck anyway?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Rebuild spare head then slap on motor that's in truck currently?
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #896
My 93 has 337k miles but it is a rust free California truck. I put about 25k on it this past year and project the same going forward. I'd like to think it would last another 7-8 years.
My concern about the spare motor is that everything attached to it is rusting or oxidized. All of the accessories on my running 93 are new. Alternator, starter, water pump, AC. And I've replaced all of the seals except the oil pan so that is the only leak left.
Would it make sense to rebuild the spare head, lifters, etc and swap?
My concern about the spare motor is that everything attached to it is rusting or oxidized. All of the accessories on my running 93 are new. Alternator, starter, water pump, AC. And I've replaced all of the seals except the oil pan so that is the only leak left.
Would it make sense to rebuild the spare head, lifters, etc and swap?
What were your Blackstone results on the engine currently in your 93?
Since your 93 is still running, I would tear down the spare, clean up everything, and make sure it's good while it's out of the truck.
I would pull off the head, and have it sent off for pressure testing, cleaning, new seals, maybe lapping or regrinding the valves, and flatness, milling if necessary.
I would check out the condition of the cylinders and rings. Mic the bores to make sure they are still within tolerance and there is no rust pitting from sitting for a very long time.
I would flip it over, pull the pans, and plastigage the mains and the rod bearings, to make sure they are within spec and the journals all look good. This would be the time to replace all the seals, hoses, filters, gaskets, etc.
Then reassemble and lube everything so it is well lubed for long-term storage. Then, when the time comes, pull the old one, drop in the new one, and make fire!
We recently did this with a 70 GMC K2500 and pulled the engine to evaluate the internals. Turns out the mains are gone, the main journals have some grooves, and one cylinder has some scarring in it. By the time we would get done machining it, it was less expensive to purchase a NEW crate motor from GM than it was to machine and rebuild the old one, not to mention a LOT less time.
We should make fire in it in the next 60 days.
Since your 93 is still running, I would tear down the spare, clean up everything, and make sure it's good while it's out of the truck.
I would pull off the head, and have it sent off for pressure testing, cleaning, new seals, maybe lapping or regrinding the valves, and flatness, milling if necessary.
I would check out the condition of the cylinders and rings. Mic the bores to make sure they are still within tolerance and there is no rust pitting from sitting for a very long time.
I would flip it over, pull the pans, and plastigage the mains and the rod bearings, to make sure they are within spec and the journals all look good. This would be the time to replace all the seals, hoses, filters, gaskets, etc.
Then reassemble and lube everything so it is well lubed for long-term storage. Then, when the time comes, pull the old one, drop in the new one, and make fire!
We recently did this with a 70 GMC K2500 and pulled the engine to evaluate the internals. Turns out the mains are gone, the main journals have some grooves, and one cylinder has some scarring in it. By the time we would get done machining it, it was less expensive to purchase a NEW crate motor from GM than it was to machine and rebuild the old one, not to mention a LOT less time.
We should make fire in it in the next 60 days.
Did you take any pics of the location of the CDL harness?
My 96 has an aftermarket stereo in it from the PO and I have everything under the dash torn apart for the alarm removal anyway, so I am going to do the Pin 7 Mod and the CDL switch. I just need to be able to FIND the harness. Not sure what I'm looking for. I had the plastic fascia off, and I don't see ANY unused plug unless I pull the stereo and see what's behind it......
2fpower
SILVER Star
I disagree. more than likely you have an oil leak on two of the two oil pan seals. Pull them off and get a tube of form a gasket to fix the leak. While you are there, get a new rear main seal, front crank pulley seal and pull off on of the caps. Look for wear on the bearing surface.
If it looks clean slap it back together and walk away. If it doesn't, then discuss what the next step is.
I tend to overthink things, so if I did not dig in and do this, I would be worrying about it for years.
