The thread I never thought I'd start... (2 Viewers)

[BILT4ME]

It's probably buried underneath/behind the stereo. That's where mine was. Fortunately I had removed my stereo so it was easy to find.

Crap. That's what I DIDN'T want to do. Oh well! I guess I gotta do it!

I have a new seal for the steering shaft coming as well! I didn't realize how much NOISE is coming from that little hole around the steering shaft. With all the lower dash apart and driving it, now I know why it's so loud inside, not to mention the window seal leaks and such......Got those coming too!

 

[Josey1972]

Before I bought my second 80 I was pondering the engine thing heavily. First I'm capable mechanically but I have never gotten so deep into cars to do an engine rebuild. I decided that since I want to enjoy the truck rather than have it down for who knows how long is that I would either A. Find a used motor and have it rebuilt for $2500 or so. B. Buy an already remanufactured engine and just have it swapped in and then as time and money allows rebuild the old one and have a spare motor. When it comes down to it there really isn't a right or wrong in the situation it just comes down to what suits your needs best. I anticipated the engine change in my budget. Its history told me so. Now that I have a truck with a rebuilt block and head in it I'm just going to swap it in. Its a rough call to make. But I have at least a back up running engine and transmission. I feel for ya....

 

[baldilocks]

Crap. That's what I DIDN'T want to do. Oh well! I guess I gotta do it!

I have a new seal for the steering shaft coming as well! I didn't realize how much NOISE is coming from that little hole around the steering shaft. With all the lower dash apart and driving it, now I know why it's so loud inside, not to mention the window seal leaks and such......Got those coming too!

I discovered the same problem. Couple weeks ago and my new steering shaft seal is on my work bench ready to go in.

 

[baldilocks]

What were your Blackstone results on the engine currently in your 93?

Since your 93 is still running, I would tear down the spare, clean up everything, and make sure it's good while it's out of the truck.

I would pull off the head, and have it sent off for pressure testing, cleaning, new seals, maybe lapping or regrinding the valves, and flatness, milling if necessary.

I would check out the condition of the cylinders and rings. Mic the bores to make sure they are still within tolerance and there is no rust pitting from sitting for a very long time.

I would flip it over, pull the pans, and plastigage the mains and the rod bearings, to make sure they are within spec and the journals all look good. This would be the time to replace all the seals, hoses, filters, gaskets, etc.

Then reassemble and lube everything so it is well lubed for long-term storage. Then, when the time comes, pull the old one, drop in the new one, and make fire!

We recently did this with a 70 GMC K2500 and pulled the engine to evaluate the internals. Turns out the mains are gone, the main journals have some grooves, and one cylinder has some scarring in it. By the time we would get done machining it, it was less expensive to purchase a NEW crate motor from GM than it was to machine and rebuild the old one, not to mention a LOT less time.

We should make fire in it in the next 60 days.

Be careful with using engine assembly lube liberally and then putting it in storage for a long time. The assembly lube/paste can dry out and clog oil galleries.
I wouldn't spend one nickel on that engine until I was sure it would be used immediately.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Be careful with using engine assembly lube liberally and then putting it in storage for a long time. The assembly lube/paste can dry out and clog oil galleries.
I wouldn't spend one nickel on that engine until I was sure it would be used immediately.

If I'm going through the hassle of rebuilding the motor I'm going to install it right away and not have to worry about it anymore. I won't sit on it and wait.

 

[baldilocks]

If I'm going through the hassle of rebuilding the motor I'm going to install it right away and not have to worry about it anymore. I won't sit on it and wait.

You know that if you do it right the first time, which will cost, you won't have anymore issues.

 

[LS1FJ40]

You know that if you do it right the first time, which will cost, you won't have anymore issues.

I know. I'm just trying to ignore any input @NLXTACY gives me. I'll end up with a $20k motor that overheats...

 

[LS1FJ40]

My blackstone results were requested.

 

[BILT4ME]

My condolences...........

 

[MDarius]

My condolences...........

Wait...I thought that looked pretty good. Can someone help me understand the Blackstone results and what they mean?

 

[BILT4ME]

Wait...I thought that looked pretty good. Can someone help me understand the Blackstone results and what they mean?

I can't explain it near as well as they do.

Go here:
Blackstone Labs

 

[BILT4ME]

And along with that......

 

[2fpower]

read the comments on the blackstone reports.

 

[LS1FJ40]

I'm going to pull a sample this weekend. I just rolled 338k miles. 3k since last sample. It will be interesting to see what they have to say...

If it's from the top end could I just rebuild my spare head and swap it out rather than swap the whole motor? Does this make sense to do? I don't really want to spend $5-6k rebuilding a motor...

 

[BILT4ME]

Yes, maybe. However, with a significant amount of aluminum in the sample, that indicates piston wear which is obviously no top end. There's nothing in the head in wear contact that is aluminum.

Let's see what the next sample shows.

May the fourth be with you.

 

[LS1FJ40]

So I pulled the chain tensioner on the spare motor to possibly swap it on to the running 93. Well, the plastic slipper is worn away and it has started wearing...

So, I dug a little deeper. This doesn't look good. Need to reevaluate...

 

[LS1FJ40]

New options:

1) Say FAWK it! Drive the 93 until/if she blows. Then swap the locked axles and accessories from the 93 on to my 92.

2) Apply the $5-7k for a full rebuild to a 70 Series. And any funds from a part out...

3) Blasphemy, I can't even believe I am thinking this, LS swap...

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Drive it till she blows and then swap the parts over. Then do an ls swapped 70 series!

 

[bryson]

Keep digging into your donor 1FZ. You haven't found anything yet that says it's not worth rebuilding.

 

[BILT4ME]

Look on the bright side! It still had Toyota red in it!!!

Looks pretty dirty. Clean it as much as possible, and check it over. I would pull the head and have new valve seals installed and check for cracks and flatness. Pull the pans and plastigage the rods and mains. Then install new seals if it looks good.